Luanda, Angola Report of what it's like to live there - 07/11/13
Personal Experiences from Luanda, Angola
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Many previous expat experiences in Africa, Latin America, Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Based in the United States. Travel from USA to Angola takes 24-36 hours. Most people fly to Europe (London, Brussels, Paris, Frankfurt, Lisbon) and then connect to Luanda. You can also fly direct from USA to Johannesburg and connect to Luanda that way.
3. How long have you lived here?
For about 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomat.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most U.S. Embassy staff live in new high-rise apartments within a few kms of the embassy. We also have some single-family homes, but they are fairly rare as this is a dense urban area like Manhattan. You won't find the kind of spacious African homes (big house, big garden, pool) of other posts in the region. This is a crowded concrete jungle. The apartments are modern and quality is ok, but we all suffer with power problems (surges, outages). Generators help, but it is still tough when the power bounces up and down. Commutes here are long due to traffic. Many employees live close to work but still spend 30-90 minutes commuting. Sometimes the traffic is simply awful.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are several decent grocery chains with products mostly from South Africa and/or Portugual. They may not have American brands, but the availability of basics is ok. Prices are high, which is why the USG staff get a 50% COLA. There are not as many dairy products here as in the US or Europe. You can get one or two kinds of Portuguese cheese (and it is pricey) but we miss a little more variety in that area. Ice cream is expensive and not great-- often thawed and refrozen due to power issues.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
American comfort foods. Toiletries and cosmetic products. Beach gear-- towels, chairs, beach umbrellas, a cooler, a tent, boogie boards or surf boards. Plenty of books and DVDs.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The only Western fast food here is KFC. There are two locations -- one by the airport and one at Belas Shopping. A family-pack meal for 3-4 people is about $60. Like everything in Luanda, even KFC is pricey. There is a wide variety of local restaurants and some are good, though service is often slow and inefficient. Prices range from US$20-60 per entree, plus more for drinks, starters, desserts, etc. Going out is expensive, but we are paid a COLA to compensate for it. There are lots of restaurants with Portuguese and/or Brazilian food as well as some international fare (pizza, Chinese, Indian, Lebanese).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
You need to take anti-malarial medicine-- you can contract malaria even in the city. We are also now experiencing an outbreak of dengue. Use mosquito repellant and cover up when you can with long sleeves and long pants.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch. It takes about 3 weeks for mail from home.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive, and it is hard to find someone good and reliable. No one lives in here, and all staff have transport problems. None of them want to work after dark due to (legitimate) fears about crime going home late. That makes it tough for parents to ever get a babysitter for a date night, and hard to throw a dinner party when your staff want to go home by 7pm.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Our embassy chancery has a small gym on site for staff. We also have a small lawn used for occasional (smaller than normal) soccer games or volleyball. We have a pool on the chancery compound too. These few amenities are a lifeline for our embassy staff, as there are virtually no green spaces or parks available in town and few recreation facilities. Many families spend hours every weekend at the chancery enjoying the pool and lawn, playing on our small playground, sometimes grilling out with friends or family. I'm not aware of commercial gyms in town you can join. There is a tennis club and you can pay by the hour to play there. There are beaches in town and down the coast which many of us enjoy in the warmer months.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I would not use them here. Full stop. Cash economy. Many places will accept U.S. dollars for payment or the local kwanza.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
You can get DSTV (satellite TV from South Africa) with many English-language channels. You can also get English channels from TV Cabo (the local cable provider). Cost is US$50-150 month depending on package.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need as much Portuguese as possible. Very few people speak any English. It is mpossible to find a domestic with any English. Spanish will get you by, but try to get as much Portuguese training for yourself and your family before you come here. It will make your life much easier.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
NO. There is no regular or safe public transport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a 4x4-- many roads are in rough condition and a 4x4 is necessary if you want to get out of town.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, from ISPs and also from the cable provider TV Cabo. Most people I know get TV and internet packages from TV Cabo. Speed is fine even for streaming TV shows, using VOIP phones and Vonage.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are two good companies, with pre or post paid options. Prepaid cards are sold on the street and easy to get to add credit to your phone. You can get internet service on your phone (Iphone or other model) and there are BlackBerry plans available here too. Some people use Ipads around town and have 3G service for them. The cell phone providers also sell thumb-drive dongles that you can attach to your laptop via a USB port and get internet over the cell network. It's slower than in-home internet, but great if you are traveling, out at a cafe, etc. and need to do work.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
No kennels. One decent vet, several not-so-great vets. You can buy some pet food in stores. It is really hard to have dogs here as we are mostly in high-rises and Luanda has virtually no green space. Dogs are cooped up. Owners are not happy.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
None of the diplomatic missions here have a bilateral work agreement with Angola. Nearly all embassies want one. There are jobs with schools, companies, and even the UN that our spouses are qualified to fill, but we can't work on the local economy. We continue to try to negotiate a BWA, but in the mean time several embassy spouses are doing interesting and meaningful volunteer work, and we have about 6 full time EFM jobs in our mission.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Office attire is formal-- suits for men, suits or dresses for women. Other than at the beach, folks generally wear long pants or skirts and relatively nice tops. This is a fairly conservative place, except at beaches and nightclubs. Angolan women are fashion conscious and have great shoes!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Street crime is violent and common. It is very risky to walk alone and you should never walk around at night. This is a city of extreme poverty, which leads to desperation. There are many muggings on the street, often by armed criminals. There are also attacks on people in cars-- sometimes they try to open your car doors while you are stuck in traffic. Criminals are often armed with guns. Many embassy staff have been victims, and almost every Angolan I know has been robbed in the past year. They generally want your wallet and cell phone. Car accidents are also a real security threat. Roads are crowded, narrow and in poor condition. Minor fender-benders happen constantly in the city. On inter-city travel, be very careful about speed and be cautious when passing. There are about 3 fatal car accidents here per day according to police stats, which are likely very low.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Serious concerns with malaria, dengue, and water/food borne parasites and intestinal problems. You cannot drink the water. Medical care here is poor.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is moderate. There are many cars and lots of exhaust from generators and vehicles. It can be very humid.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Weather is warm and sunny most of the year (80s to 90s), but also quite humid. It's cooler between May and September (70s during the day, 60s at night). There are sporadic rains between say October and March. When there is a major rainstorm, the city becomes impossible to move around in. Some streets become flooded, and the traffic grinds to a halt for a few hours.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Luanda has two internationally accredited English-language schools. ESCOLA is located in the city (very near the embassy) and has preschool through Grade 9. Luanda International School is located about 15 kms from the embassy south of the city and has preschool through Grade 12. It is an IB school. Embassy families currently use both schools and are happy with them, though each has pros and cons. I should be clear that neither school is an "American school," they are both proudly international and neither school allows our embassy to have a seat on the board or any say in school governance. That is pretty unusual. LIS is a school founded by the oil companies to serve the oil companies and they are explicit about that. LIS has a large, beautiful modern campus with every amenity you could want. It is however a long commute from the city due to traffic. Embassy kids spend 45-90 minutes on the bus each way, and during rainy season it can take 2-3 hours to get home due to traffic on some nights. It's tough for parents to get there for activities or to get there in case of emergency. ESCOLA has mostly South African staff and has a very small campus. It doesn't have the space or super facilities of LIS, but it is a diverse and caring environment. I've been happy with the teachers and the overall experience and glad my kids are minutes from the embassy and not suffering in traffic.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I don't think the schools here are at all equipped for special-needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Some families have used local Portuguese-language preschools and have been satisified. ESCOLA and LIS offer high-quality preschool for 3-4 year olds, but it is extremely costly. Nannies are harder to find here than in any of my previous posts, and they are more costly (US$500-700/month) and work fewer hours than anywhere else I have lived. Domestic help is not easy in Luanda.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Both ESCOLA and LIS have some after-school activities, but our ability to participate is limited by the commute (esp. at LIS). ESCOLA has no large athletic fields, but it does have a swimming pool and a swim team. I've never seen any community sports programs we could enroll our kids in.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is a relatively small community. The diplomats tend to live downtown, and the American Embassy is the largest by far. We have some social contacts with the European embassies, which is very nice. We have very little contact with the oil company expats, who all live on gated compounds about an hour south of town (adjacent to the LIS). There is a large Portuguese-speaking expat community of Portuguese and Brazilian citizens, but they are well integrated into society here and get around much more easily than those of us from the US or rest of Europe.
2. Morale among expats:
Morale is fair. Better I would say among adventurous singles/couples who speak at least some Portuguese. Worse among expats w/o Portuguese ability and people who have older kids (esp. teens) who get restless and bored here. Families with younger kids seem relatively happy too. Oil company morale seems much higher than diplomat morale. The company folks have better housing and better quality of life, frequent and fully paid trips home to USA, and lots of access to US products and services. The diplomats actually live in the real Luanda, which is just harder.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We have friends over for dinners and drinks, but it is harder in Luanda than my past posts because of the traffic and because we are in an apartment and so we cannot do bbqs or outdoor entertaining. Mostly, we stay home and play games or watch movies.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Ok for singles and couples. Ok for families with younger kids. I would not want to be here with older kids (10+) as there are very few activities for them and they would get very bored.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Angolans often express anti-Muslim sentiments to me in official meetings and at social events. I would worry about Muslim visitors or diplomats suffering from prejudice.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips to the beach on the Ilha or at Cabo Ledo. Provincial travel to Huambo and Benguela. Dinner on the Ilha with beautiful views of the city lights. Exercising on the Marginal (the beautiful new path along the bay).
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Go to the beach at Cabo Ledo or Musulo or the Ilha.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Honestly, nothing. I've lived around the world and have seen very little here I would buy. Crafts in other countries are nicer and cheaper. Spending here is on groceries and restaurants/entertainment as well as transport/internet/basics.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is nice to be on the coast and have beautiful ocean views and beaches nearby. The weather is generally pleasant, though humid. I have enjoyed learning Portuguese.
10. Can you save money?
Probably not. Luanda is consistently ranked one of the most expensive cities in the world for expats -- and with good reason. The cost of life here is high. It's also very expensive to travel either domestically or internationally. It's about US$500-700 per person round trip just to fly to South Africa, more to Europe or other regional destinations. A "long weekend" trip for a family of 4 to South Africa will be at least US$3,500-- maybe more if you go on safari or do something special. Hotels here in Angola are expensive (US$300+ in Luanda, over US$150 in the provinces) and the provincial hotels are basic at best.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but a qualified yes. I think that there is exciting challenging work here and that makes our stay here worthwhile. But it is important that you and your family members know what the challenges will be and come in with realistic expectations and prepared for some stress and isolation. I believe it is worth it, but life here is not always easy.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Binoculars-- no safaris here and no animals left to see after the 30+ year civil war.
Bicycle: streets are dangerous and no parks
BBQ Grill: You will live in an apartment and have no space to grill out
Extra stuff: Your apartment will have no storage space, so be thoughtful about what you bring
3. But don't forget your:
Beach gear: chairs, towels, umbrellas, tent, sand toys, surf or boogie board.
Home Entertainment: Games, books, DVDs, craft projects-- you will have free time at home to fill
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Last Train to Zona Verde-- by Paul Theroux (2013 publication)
Angola: Promises and Lies -- Karl Maier
Another Day of Life
High Noon in Southern Africa-- Chet Crocker
Engaging Africa-- Washington and the Fall of Portugal's Colonial Empire
