Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Report of what it's like to live there - 06/13/10
Personal Experiences from Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Lived in several other foreign cities including Sao Paulo from 2006 - 2008.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC.9-10 hrs - fastest is United via Sao Paulo but can go American through Miami and lots of other direct US flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Almost all apartments, but there are some very very expensive homes in Alto Leblon, Gavea and far away in Barra. Construction quality and maintenance is a problem in all Consulate housing. Most apts have severe issues, including A/C, which you really really need in summer. Bedroom sizes (and possibility of getting an apartment comfortably big enough for a family of more than 4 people) are generally very, very small in Ipanema and Leblon - less so in Flamengo and Botafogo or way out in Barra.(Barra is not an option for the Consulate community.)Most people at the Consulate (regardless of family size) get a 3 or 4 bedroom apt and they usually have a very small maids room. There are some parks through the city for kids but in Rio there are very few apartment complex playgrounds that I found a godsend in other big cities. Some buildings designate one floor as the "Play" floor, which is essentially an empty floor where kids can run around and use their own toys. To entertain their kids locals often join sports/social clubs (Flamengo is within the budget for Consulate people but rich locals prefer the Jockey Club, Caicaras, and others).One other option is the Estacao de Corpo gym (which is pricey compared to others) but also offers free swim time on weekends in their nice clean pools and has a few kid classes. There are several gyms for grownups, which are a little pricey - but under $250.Traffic from/to Barra from the rest of the city is atrocious since it all passes through a couple chokepoints (but is not so bad on a weekend) and my kids' friends' parents who live in the near end of Barra report 2-3 hr commutes on the really bad days (rainy Fri pm).Before or after rush hour 20 min from Ipanema to Centro, 30-40 min from the far end of Leblon to Centro, 5-10 min from Flamengo or Botafogo to Centro. During rush hour or rainy Friday afternoons can jump to 30-60 min Centro-Ipanema, 45-90 min Centro - Leblon, and 15-30 min - Centro - Flamengo. Leblon is the fanciest of the neighborhoods - lots of fantastic restaurants/shops/pharmacies, etc. nearby, Ipanema has more of the same though is less tony, Copacabana (not an option for Consulate families) has some very expensive apts and closeby grocery stores/pharmacies, but is a bit seedier, especially along the beach at night. Lagoa is a very nice expensive neighborhood, too, bigger apartments (though expensive) and without the restaurants/shopping/drug store options that Leblon and Ipanema have. Flamengo/Botafogo are more middle-class but still lots of restaurants/shopping/conveniences nearby, and Barra is like living in the U.S. suburbs with shopping malls a short drive away, U.S. sized grocery stores, and none of the Rio flavor. All apartments in Leblon, Ipanema, Copacabana, and Flamengo (and parts of Botafogo) are within a short walk of a beach, though you won't end up going as often as you think. The beach side of Lagoa is about a 15 min walk away. Ipanema and Leblon beaches are the prettiest, but you do not really want to swim regularly in any of them.(One newspaper article here last year reported that Ipanema sand had the high fecal matter content of all of them.)I'm not squeamish and still let my kids go to the beach and in the water, but most people here - American and Brazilian - go out to more pristine locations in Barra and beyond when they want to "go to the beach."
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Very expensive. Most groceries except for sweet corn and some other American things like cranberries (you can find these things at Santa Luzia in Sao Paulo if you get there) are here (but, sadly, not fresh milk - it's all the long-life stuff) but very, very expensive. Maybe 1 1/2 - 2 times what they cost in the U.S.Much cheaper to use NetGrocer or Amazon. Household supplies I just go local, except for good ziploc bags, wax paper, aluminum foil, and Pam spray.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Same things - Pam cooking spray, tires, car parts, American wrapping paper/tape/party supplies, kid bday presents (they are all here but outrageously expensive), American candy for parties, pinatas for parties, hair/beauty favorites. I also order all clothes/shoes online b/c they're so expensive here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's is ubiquitous, I saw a KFC in Copacabana, a few Subways, tons and tons of little mom and pop bars with snack foods called salgados. Not as many nice restaurants as Sao Paulo but lots of options - especially in Leblon and Ipanema. My favorites are Alessandro and Frederico (Italian), Sawasdee (Thai), Ten-Kai (Japanese), Joe and Leo's (burgers) and Carlota's (French).Price range is about USD 25 - 50.Chain restaurants are also here - especially in Barra - Outback, TGIF, Fogo de Chao, Applebee's - probably same price range.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Every once in a while there is a big dengue outbreak (mosquitoes), and ants are annoying.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO (unreliable) or dip pouch. Local courier service is OK though.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available. People pay $35 or so per day for a housekeeper/cook if they don't go full-time. Most people hire nannies, who Americans will usually pay USD400 - 800/month. Brazilians will pay less, but may pay up to USD 600 or 700 if they are really loaded. To comply with local labor law you must pay Brazilian social security and other taxes if you hire a Brazilian. This can be pricey.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Widely available and expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Lots of cloning. Even some bank ATMs are rigged. But this is a tourist-accommodating place and most reputable places how bring the little machine to your table.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
British School has an English-language Anglican service, non-demoninational Christian church in Barra, there may be others.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Widely available and expensive. Regular cable channels show lots of US programming (though dated) in English on Sony, Fox, Liv, Warner, AXN, Universal and HBO channels are available. CNN Intl and BBC are also here. I pay for the cable/internet/phone combo for about USD 160 a month but this is without the movie lineup.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
In the tourist-y areas and with wealthy Brazilians you won't need much. Traveling to smaller towns or off the beaten tourist path you will. Beware the regional accents as Brazilian Portuguese varies widely between cities/regions.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks/roads are often poorly kept, so they are bumpy and uneven. Public transport buses have lifts for chairs, but I don't see them used often. I didn't see elevators for wheelchairs in the metro, but maybe they're there.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses, taxis, metro all safe and affordable. I commuted by public bus for USD 0.80 each way until my schedule changed.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Parking spaces are a a premium - the smaller the better - plus gas is about USD 8-9 a gallon I'm guessing. With 4 kids I've got a mini-van and am letting all the dents accumulate b/c I know I'll get more. I'd bring small parts (filters, spark plugs, tires) and order other small ones online. Roads are generally OK but beware of speed bumps in cities and on roads. Duties are very high (but go to 0 for diplomats if car is at least 3 yrs in country?!) and lots of people sell when they leave.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Dunno. Mine comes from work. Do have a VOIP phone that's invaluable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I am new to this and haven't used a kennel yet, but they have them.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
You need a work permit - we do have a bilateral agreement for diplomatic spouses - but even then it is difficult, as you need great Portuguese, and so many highly qualified people here are fluent in both Portuguese and English and usually something else. Salaries won't be as high.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For Americans, it's business, but Brazilian co-workers will be loosely business casual. On the street it is very casual and skimpy - similar to Miami.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I don't find it any worse than other big cities I've lived in (NY, Mexico City, Nairobi, London) but security is a much bigger issue than in small-town USA.The much-publicized high homicide rate is true, but most of those happen in the poor favelas where they do not have government services and a police presence. There is quite a bit of tourist-related crime in the city so you really really should not carry expensive or important things like your passport with you when you go out and about. That said - this is an outdoor city and walking along the well-lit sidewalks next to the beaches in the main tourist areas is common any time of day, late in the night and early in the morning and if you look like you're jogging/walking as opposed to carrying your vacation money and camera you should be OK.I do not, however, walk down by the water at night after it's dark - I stick to the well-lit sidewalks. Also do not carry/use cell phone/ipod much when walking alone in public, etc. though lots of others do.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Dengue when there's an outbreak. Mold allergies. Mold is everywhere and tough to get rid of due to the humidity. Locals use little manual dehumidifying boxes that suck away water into a little container so their closets/drawers stay dry. Building construction is poor and lots and lots of mold/dust/irritants. I have three of four kids on anti-allergy medicines. Drs are very very expensive in the neighborhoods we frequent but at least follow-up consultations are usually free. Had one good recent experience at the Sao Jose orthopedic emergency room.(Sao Paulo's Albert Einstein hospital was much more convenient for consulate employees.)
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good, though certain areas smell extraordinarily unhealthy.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Lots of sun, quite a bit of rain - very hot in southern hemisphere summer and comfortably warm in southern hemisphere winter. There is a LOT of rain, which results in frequent street/road flooding and dangerous mudslides in hillside communities and roads.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
English-language schools include EARJ (American school of Rio), British School, Our Lady of Mercy (OLM)(small Catholic school), and a small Christian school out in Barra. EARJ and the British School both have a spacious campus out in Barra, too. EARJ is located in Gavea (beyond but closest to the Leblon neighborhood), British School is in Botafogo (closest to Botafogo/Flamengo and about a 20 min ride when I go early am from Ipanema) and I don't know about the others. EARJ has all grades at the Gavea site. British school has kids from nursery school - 4 yrs in one separate building across the street, and kids 5 - 12 yrs (Class 5) in Botafogo and older than that go to their campus in Urca (a lovely residential neighborhood between Botafogo and Copacabana by Sugar Loaf).I visited both EARJ and the British School in 2006 and opted for the British School because I felt they focused more on academics and character building. All four kids are there now (reception through Class 3 for my now 10 yr old) and very happy with it. It is not as academically rigorous as Chapel School in Sao Paulo (a fantastic school with a great grass football pitch) but I'm still happy with the decision. The biggest downside is that the school year follows the Brazilian calendar, so it begins in Feb rather than Aug. And they're not getting any U.S. history. EARJ is the State Dept sponsored school and has tons more resources and support. It has a beautiful, magical campus, and parents with kids there are happy with their decisions. I continue to hear anecdotes about disciplinary issues (a reluctance to do so) so you should talk with parents who have kids there to get their insights. There is a reluctance to tell children no throughout Brazilian society - especially the wealthier you are - and I see a bit of that at the British School, too. About school buses - I think the EARJ buses are run by the school. British School is not - but the school gives you a live of private bus companies to use and that's been easy. My recollection was that kids doing after-school activities at EARJ did not get to use the regular schoolbus and parents had to make other arrangements to pick them up, but that may have changed or have been my misunderstanding. The company we use at British School has a couple of pickup times, so doing a variety of afterschool activities is no problem. Transport time will depend on whether they're the first or last picked up (even if I were a stay at home mom I don't think I could stand the long queue to drop off/pick up every day) but my kids get picked up in Ipanema around 7:10 and get to school in Botafogo about a half hour later. When we lived at the far end of Leblon pickup was 15 min earlier. When I drive in (before rush-hour) it's a 15-20 min ride through the Tunel Velho. For midday school events it takes me about 15-20 minutes to get from the Consulate to the British School (Botafogo).This was another selling point for me. To get to EARJ in Gavea would take an hour or so. To get from Leblon to Botafogo would take about a half an hour if it's very early and no traffic on Humaita or an hour or so if there is. Did I tell you how long the queue is to pick kids up/drop off?When I need to do that I always take a taxi b/c the R$50 I spend is well worth not waiting in that infernal line filled with other kids' parents' drivers who have all the time in the world to wait. Parking is also in very short supply around the Botafogo campus. Not sure if this is an issue at EARJ or OLM.There are several really good Brazilian schools, but most of them are full-price for half day - i.e. 8-12pm OR 1-5pm - and then you pay for the extra English class, sports activity, etc. British School is IB mandatory and not sure what EARJ does. The population is predominantly Brazilian at all schools, though I suspect more English-speaking expats with the oil companies go to EARJ so probably a higher-percentage of native English speaking kids there. Playground language is still Portuguese, at least in lower grades. Don't know where EARJ grads go, but British School grads seem pretty evenly split between U.S., UK, and Brazilian university. Not sure about British School. I know one parent is happy with the accommodations at EARJ.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Don't know about British School (they were very accommodating about putting my daughter's eye patch on every day).I know one parent of a child at EARJ who's happy with the accommodations there.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Really expensive in the neighborhoods we live in. British School offers it for astronomical fees (USD 1500 - 1800? or so per month) and St. Patricks is an English speaking preschool in Leblon that's also expensive. I have dual national kids and was happy to go local and still paid about USD 600 per month for a half-day program at Creche Bambini in Ipanema, which I LOVED.Brazilians love kids so they'll most likely have a wonderful experience anyway. Creche Bambini was the only one of the three I visited that was interested in even introducing letters/numbers to 4 yr olds. They had great learning themes - Carmem Miranda and Carneval - too. Most people hire nannies, who Americans will usually pay USD400 - 800/month. Brazilians will pay less, but may pay up to USD 600 or 700 if they are really loaded. To comply with local labor law you must pay Brazilian social security and other taxes if you hire a Brazilian. This can be pricey.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
At the social clubs or through the schools. Most popular are football (soccer), volleyball, capoeira, basketball, judo/jiu-jitsu.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
About 22,000 resident Americans in the district and lots of other intl expats as well.
2. Morale among expats:
Mostly high, unless you have overly high expectations about housing, which will be in a fantastic location but probably not as big or well-maintained as you would like.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Little for official functions. Most families socialize with their kids' friends -- I know mine often go to their clubs or country houses -- and singles have lots of options and do a mix of in-consulate socializing and local.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Fantastic for all.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Umm... heck yeah. though the Sao Paulo pride parade is bigger.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Racial prejudice exists though not always acknowledged. There is a federal-level effort to eliminate the vestiges of racial prejudice but a long way to go. People of color are often presumed to be the hired help in the expensive parts of town (especially if they wear all white clothes - the uniform of the nannies).My beautiful brown children stand out in the crowd at school but there are some others and no name-calling or anything like that. One thing that baffles me is that despite Rio's history and demographic patters lots of people still assume that my children are adopted, but I suppose that would happy in the U.S. too. No religious issues here. Brazil is pretty progressive gender-wise and women are well represented in the professions. Not sure about salary disparity. Judges automatically grant custody to moms though there is a nascent fathers rights movement to get joint custody/access rights.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Lazy days outside with the kids on the beach, bicycling around Lagoa (the lagoon), walking along the beach on weekends/holidays when the main roads are closed off for travel, parks (favorite is Ibirapuera park in Sao Paulo), visits to historical places, the Amazon, Salvador, Petropolis, spectacularly lavish kid birthday parties, local festivals/celebrations like the Festa Junina country-wide.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lazy days outside with the kids on the beach, bicycling around Lagoa (the lagoon), walking along the beach on weekends/holidays when the main roads are closed off for travel, parks (favorite is Ibirapuera park in Sao Paulo), visits to historical places, the Amazon, Salvador, Petropolis, spectacularly lavish kid birthday parties. Haven't yet been to the Pantanal, Ouro Preto/Tiradentes, the gazillion beautiful waterfalls/swimming holes, Foz Iguacu, Fortaleza, or many of the beach areas. And, oh, yeah, all the Rio tourist spots people who live here forget about - Big Jesus (Corcovado), Pao de Acucar (Sugar Loaf), Santa Teresa cable car ride, Copacabana fort museum, Lapa for dancing (between of hold-ups there so don't flash your valuables and give them up if you're asked for them), football games, umm Carnival.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Living in the expensive part of town, souvenirs from the hippie fair, art, expensive travel to other cool in-Brazil destinations, children and teacher (and janitor and secretary and librarian) fancy birthday presents for anyone who sees your child at school on a regular basis, after-school activities for your kids, good restaurants, Carnival parade and ball tickets/costumes.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Spectacular beauty, musical culture, warmth of the people, variety of international influences, proximity to other interesting places to visit in Brazil, weather that makes outdoor activities an option year round, wonderful walking/running paths throughout the city, enthusiasm for enjoying life.
11. Can you save money?
No way.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely. We will be sad to go and strongly recommend living here for everyone.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter clothes (though you will want to bring a leather jacket or something for the "cold" weather - 65 degrees that will feel much colder), pantyhose and most of your socks.
3. But don't forget your:
sunblock and other personal products if there are brand names you can't live without; also beach and athletic wear.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
A Death in Brazil (Peter Robb), Ruy Castro's book "Rio de Janeiro - Carnival Under Fire" about the history of Rio, The Accidental President (Fernando Enrique Cardoso), Brazil (Errol Lincoln Uys).
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Tropa de Elite, City of God, Passenger x (keeping in mine that that view of the favela side of Rio is only one part of life here), that 1960's or 70's movie about an American and her Brazilian boyfriend, the 2009 movie about the Brazilian bossa nova pioneers and their adventures trying to market it in NY (Os Desafiados?), 7 Days in September.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Rio is a very different place than it was even a few years ago. It is really in the midst of a Renaissance - booming economically, decreasing crime, and loads of business/cultural opportunities. There was a long decline after the capitol moved from Rio to Brasilia (and the U.S. Mission to Brazil moved with it - ultimately leaving the Consulate resource challenged in staffing and funds - but that is changing as Rio regains its importance in the bilateral relationship. Next year's Military Games, the 2014 World Cup, and 2016 Olympics will also attract more attention and travelers to Rio. It is still a constituent post, and those management and resource challenges will continue. Nevertheless, I am very very glad I lucked out and was able to serve here and that my children were able to experience this wonderful city for a couple years. One caveat to parents of dual citizen kids - there are strict exit requirements from the country. If Brazilian children are traveling both parents much accompany or provide a judge's authorization showing that they agree for the children to leave. There are no exceptions. If either parent decides they don't want the children to leave the country, and refuses to get the judge's document, the federal police will not let the children depart. This is true even when the trip was supposed to be temporary and after arriving one parent decides they want the children to remain in Brazil.www.travel.state.gov has comprehensive information about the security, health and other information about Brazil and other countries, and you definitely should read that before coming.
