Yaounde, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 06/06/18
Personal Experiences from Yaounde, Cameroon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, have lived in two other African cities, one Asian city, and one European city (twice).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Virginia, U.S.A. It takes a good 24 hours to get to Yaounde from VA. The flight via Brussels or Paris is 24 hours, then there seems to be an inevitable delay with flights arriving, and then a good hour to get home from the airport.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is great. We have a huge fenced-in yard that is great for our pets. We are one of the furtherest families from the embassy and the commute should take 15 minutes by car. However, when school is starting or finishing and people are taking their children to school, or even just going to the supermarket, or it rains, then the commute goes up from there. In general the commute is very reasonable and beats the beltway dash.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are more expensive in the supermarkets here (Dovv, Mahima, Casino) as the goods are all imported. If you see something in the supermarket that you want buy it up, as you never know if it will be there next week (or even the week after). It is always an unknown as to whether what you say there last week will be there next week. Buy accordingly!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Yaounde is a consumables post so take advantages of it. Bring over lots of wine, as the supermarkets don't always transport wine from Europe (or South Africa) with respect, meaning that when you open it, it may be corked. Bring over sunscreen as it is expensive here. Actually bring anything that would be imported from Europe, as it will be more expensive here than normal.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a selection of restaurants offering pizzas which you can take out, too.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
When it rains, sometimes the cockroaches like to escape to somewhere dry, maybe in your house.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
All our mail comes and goes by diplomatic pouch and so takes three weeks to arrive/reach the destination. Plan accordingly! I have never used the local mail, though a teacher tells me that if she puts God-like stickers on her parcels they reach the destination, as the locals don't want to interfere with God! You can buy the religious stickers on the streets easily enough.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is very reasonable; we pay about US$300 a month for a full time housekeeper. Our gardener is part-time and is paid about US$150/ month. Some people employ drivers, but I never saw the need for it. Parking is a nightmare, so a driver would certainly make that easier.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I used credit card at the Casino and Mahima supermarkets with no problems. Saves having to carry lots of CFA around (local currency is about CFA 500 to US$1) We only got money out at the embassy; either the ATM or the cashier.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Cameroon is supposedly bilingual, and there are English language services available, but be prepared for Cameroonian English which we did not always understand.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Having French would be helpful, but Yaounde is supposedly bilingual. However, Cameroonian English is a special kind of English, and the French seems different, too. You have to sometimes ask several times to get the answer to the question you asked. They use words and constructions a little differently here. There are French teachers here.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, the sidewalks are used for parking vehicles, driving on or setting up a stall. The roads and side walks are uneven and often there are huge holes in them. There are strange steps everywhere, so leave your wheelchair behind!
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We are forbidden from taking the yellow taxis. The local buses are rarely on the roads, even though they look newish (at least in better condition than the plentiful yellow taxis.)
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a high-clearance 4wd. The roads, in our opinion, were not good, so be prepared to navigate tire-swallowing potholes. Don't bring a valuable car as it is likely to get scratched or dented as you navigate the roads. Toyota is a good brand as there are mechanics here who can repair Toyotas. Our local mechanic even had the fancy electronic sensor machine which connects to the car and tells you where the problem is in the car. Carjacking is not an issue. Bring the parts you need from the U.S. as parts will likely be expensive (but more importantly you won't be able to guarantee the quality of the parts). Drivers here are the worst I have seen, and we have been to several other African and Asian countries. Be wary of everybody on or near the road. The cars we have seen have been in very poor condition and did not seem to be driven well.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We have had the worst internet experience here, and we have lived in much poorer countries than Cameroon. Internet has simply been unreliable for us. We do not recommend Creolink. They offer high-speed unlimited Internet for about $100 per month, but our internet would always seem to disappear Friday evening or else Saturday afternoon (when Creolink closes and its employees go home). Internet would only return Monday around lunch time. Further more if there was a storm or heavy rain, service would also disappear. Others have said Orange Flybox works better than Creolink. Telecommunications infra-structure does not seem good here. You are forewarned!
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can easily get a SIM card for your unlocked smart phone and then pay upwards from $6 per month for service depending on what plan you want. Unfortunately the infrastructure here did not impress us. I once made a five minute local call which was dropped five times. This is not uncommon. You need to keep calling back. Sometimes the lines are so bad, that it sounds like the person is on another planet, when they are actually in the same city!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine required prior to entry. The vets here are not like we were used to back home; expect basic conditions and you won't be disappointed. I once had to compete with President Macron as I spoke to the vet assistant; he was speaking on TV which was on super loud right at the reception desk. When I asked her to turn it off, she seemed surprised! Some vets apparently do house calls, which might avoid the need to compete with President Macron...
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's very tough to find a job on the local market. There are a lot of qualified graduates here who cannot find work. If you can telework that would be good, but we found internet not to be reliable. If you are a teacher, ASOY is often looking for teachers (pre-K all the way through to Grade 12). Most people who get a job either work in the embassy or work long distance with their U.S.- based employers. Local salary pay appears to be very low.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are many; you can volunteer at one of the many NGOs in whatever field you would like.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal dress is required for formal events, e.g. national days, the Marine Ball, etc.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, avoid walking if the sun is not up, as you risk being mugged.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is prevalent, so take your anti malarial prophylaxis. I heard yesterday of a local who died of cerebral malaria. Apparently the local doctor at the hospital advised the family to see a specialist as he was unable to help.
You will need to be medevaced for many things as medical care is limited. I heard of a child and another adult who were medevaced for root canals. We found that the dental experience here is something to be avoided; even the basic cleaning for four people took four hours and left us feeling very sore in our jaws and mouths as we left.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is fine. During the dry season, things will be coated with a layer of red Sahara dust. The housekeepers manage to do a good job in ensuring the inside is dusted often. We have dehumidifers which we empty twice a day, as so much moisture is collected. Our borderline asthmatic son has not had any problems here though.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Yaounde living is not easy. To make it easier, take trips out of Yaounde to recharge your batteries.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is like a hot summer all year round, so shorts and t-shirt weather. Even when it pours, it is not cold rain, but warm rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We used ASOY which is fine, though weak in maths and science. Some parents complained about the lack of afterschool activities, but the new athletic director is working on changing that. Already she has made some positive changes.
If your child is french speaking, there is FUSTEL.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Schools have only very basic ability to deal with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools available. Household help is cheap, so you could hire a nanny for less than $300 per month, too. ASOY provides afterschool activities.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, some children do horse riding at the local hippodrome. Others do art classes at the art teacher's house. Some do martial arts on Saturday mornings.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is relatively large. Morale varies with whom you speak.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
You make your own fun. There are quiz nights and some bars. People often entertain themselves; parking is always a challenge at local restaurants/bars etc, so it is much easier if you have friends come to your place or you go to theirs.
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Cameroon seems to be an aggressive paternalistic society. A Cameroonian's way of communicating may be perceived by Westerns as being very loud and aggressive. I have seen a motorist clearly at fault arguing as if his life depended on it with the other motorist. According to him, he should have been able to drive around the round-about while speaking on his phone and not have run into the car in front of him. The culture is also one of bullying - seen from adults all the way to small children. I have seen locals who are scared of dogs and will often make fun of others by actively pushing them into the way of a nearby dog to scare them. Children and adults may taunt others by saying the dog will eat them or attack them.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Climbing Mount Cameroon was great. If I did it again, I would come down through the elephant sanctuary. Visiting the gorillas at Mefou was also good. They have decent enclosures and it is not far from Yaounde. On a more regular basis, just walking in the fields or forest on weekend mornings has been great to recharge the batteries.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The golf course right behind the embassy is well worth using. It is green and clean(ish) as well as offering amazing views of Yaounde. Visit the gorillas in Mefou for a weekend trip. Climb Mount Cameroon.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Living here is not easy, and driving has been a frustrating factor for me.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I met some great people here and will miss them when we leave. Yaounde living is not easy, but I am glad we did it. I am also glad to be leaving.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expensive cars with low clearance, winter clothes, ski gear and customer service expectations.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience, sunscreen and bottles of wine!
