Yaounde, Cameroon Report of what it's like to live there - 06/17/08
Personal Experiences from Yaounde, Cameroon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Fourth overseas posting.
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Affiliated with the U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Dulles to either Zurich or Brussels (about 8 hours) and then another 9 hours to either Yaounde or Douala.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing varies greatly and does not correlate with ones grade/position. Post is making a large effort to obtain new housing. All housing, regardless of age, have many maintanence issues that you can expect to spend a lot of time and frusturation on. Most houses have large, beautiful yards, some with pools (though pools do not often work and become large mosquito attractions). All housing have generators due to frequent power outtages. All houses seem to have servants and guards quarters. Don't be impressed by this.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are a few new, Western-style grocery stores - combined with the small commissary, I have found everything that I need.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Toilet paper. Wine. I use Netgrocer, and have been satisfied with this.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Dip pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and knocking on your gate when you arrive. Choose carefully. About US$200 a month for full time housekeeper/cook and same for driver.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a cash-only society. Don't use your credit cards.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Few.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Depending on your job; A little French would serve you well, but not necessary.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very difficult. There are no sidewalks, stairs or ramps. Mostly dirt rubbles that you must walk over. Of course the new Embassy is ADA compliant.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Same as in the U.S.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. This is a crime critical post with RSO restrictions.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Probably a 4 wheel drive. Expect to be in several fender benders.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Free service through the Embassy.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Most people in Cameroon rely soley on their cell phones, as the phones frequently do not work here.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I've heard that there is one good vet.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not the local economy, but the Embassy has a lot of positions for EFMs.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Cameroonians are more formal. Regular business attire for work, and for receptions, cocktail attire will do.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Very unhealthy. There are no emmissions controls for vehicles. Locals also burn their trash, houses are covered with mold, and orange dust permeates the air.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is a crime critical post that experienced civil unrest in February 2008. All Embassy housing has security bars on windows, 24 hour guards, and high walls covered in razor wire.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Cameroon is known as the petri-dish of Africa. There are many health concerns here, and if they don't kill you, then a traffic accident will.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Always nice. Rain and sun.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ASOY is the American school in Yaounde. This is a small school with about 160 students, mostly international and English as a second language students. The American kids are the minority. ASOY experienced a student murder on campus 4 years ago, followed with a school bus accident that took the lives of several students and teachers. The school is slowly recovering and adjusting to a new school director that was appointed after the murder. Retention of top teachers seems like a challenge for ASOY, as does maintaining a challenging American curriculum for all grades (K-12). The school is currently undergoing re-accreditation, and it will be interesting to see if they are successful. The school campus is very run down. The school frequently does not have water, making it difficult for students to even flush the toilets or wash their hands. All this being said, the staff at ASOY is committed to the students and they do the best that they can. There is also a couple of french speaking schools that are very good in Yaounde. Some embassy families send their children to either Fustel or Flamboyant.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There seems to be a concerted effort to make accomodations. Although I can't help but attribute this to the fact that a lare percentage of the student population are just learning to speak/read english.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
The only preschool available is at ASOY, although expensive - the kids seem to be happy and well adjusted.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's large in Yaounde and Douala, as there are many NGOs and other Embassies.
2. Morale among expats:
Low to very low. The school is disappointing, the housing frusturating and the lack of anything to do maddening, and if you're single, the lonliness will get to you. Combine this with civil unrest, and you have low morale.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, in fact couples seem to do well here and have made a super contribution to post. Cameroonians, however, frown upon gay relationships.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None that I've encountered.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Kribi, gorrilla sanctuary, Douala, Limbe, swimming. The Embassy has a new, beautiful recreation center. Dinner parties and garden parties are also fun. That being said, you may grow bored quickly as the sight seeing and cultural activities are limited.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Masks, but they all eventually warp.
9. Can you save money?
No.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. Although I have hopes for this post with the new embassy compound, new housing and new school director - I see a steady improvement if the security situation remains stable.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Notions of a beautiful, serene Africa with elaborate housing. Ideas of incredible safaris and carefree hikes.
3. But don't forget your:
Patience and sense of humor, as well as bug repellent
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Constant Gardener. While this movie takes place in Nairobi, the street scenes, hospitals and locals are very typical to what I've seen here.
