Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 01/27/11
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
no, I have also lived in Orastie, Romania and Montpellier, France.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
North Carolina, trip was about 8 hours, with a connection through Atlanta.
3. How long have you lived here?
six months, so far
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Educator
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments in modern buildings or within family homes, generally. The Americans from our school mostly live in the new city, north of Mariscal. It's pretty safe. It's close to Parque la Carolina (a popular place for Ecuadorians to play soccer or basketball) and Parque Metropolitano (a quieter park on top of a ridge with nice views and a forest). Our commute time is about 40 minutes each way, but our school is located pretty far north of the city. I think on average, with the traffic, it can take about 30 minutes to get anywhere from the Centro Historico to the northern parts of the city. We seldom go south of Centro Historico because it is not very safe.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
It's easy to shop for groceries. There are several local markets around town - they can be pretty cheap for fruits and vegetables. The main grocery store is SuperMaxi and it stocks a large range of foods, including imports. If you want to buy imported food be prepared to pay twice what you'd pay for Ecuadorian made food (but sometimes it's worth it). Usually our grocery bills run about $350 per month for two people, but I think if you budget well you could spend less.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I can get most stuff here. Bring electronics! They are so expensive to buy here. Also, nice clothes are expensive, so I have friends and family bring me sweaters from home when they visit.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food - down in Mariscal there's KFC and McDonalds. Lots of restaurants - Ecuadorian, Mexican, Pizza, Japanese. The more exotic you get, the more expensive it becomes. My husband and I typically spend between $20 to $30 each time we eat out. That's usually a drink and an entree each. The typically little Ecuadorian place that serves "almuerzos" (lunches) only costs about $2.50 for the main meal, drink, and dessert. But the food there is nothing exciting. If you want good "expat" style food expect to pay at least $8-$10 for an entree.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I know there is an organic market not far from Parque Metropolitano on Saturdays. Some of the food in Supermaxi is advertised as organic. I think vegetarians can find things to eat here, but in restaurants it can be more difficult.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None in Quito. The usual mosquitoes at lower altitudes. I was eaten alive in Mindo and in the Amazonian basin - deet is a must.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I haven't really sent letters, I receive them from the States at my apartment building. Most buildings don't have mailboxes, so the guard holds on to the letters. Be aware if you have anything valuable sent to you. Also, not recommendable to send goods from home. You will be taxed on your goods at two to three times the value. I even have one friend whose package was allegedly sent back to the States because her used clothes were in the box, and it is not allowed to ship used clothing to Ecuador. It never arrived back to her parents in the States, so she lost all of her things.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have a maid that comes once a week and we pay her $3 an hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but they are expensive. I go to a pool at the public high school near me, but even that is $5 a visit. There's a Curves, which is about $35 a month (if you pay for a year in advance, I think). Then there is a nicer American-style gym for $50 a month (they struck a deal with several Americans).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are a lot of ATMs around. They usually charge $.50 to use another bank's card, and there might be a limit of $100 to withdraw. You can use credit cards at most large stores. But it's not as much of a credit culture as the U.S. so always have cash available.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, there are two I know of. One is a more fundamentalist church. The other is interdenominational, I guess more Lutheran in its liturgy? But welcoming of many faiths.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. The Miami Herald is available some places. You can program your cable not to dub in Spanish. We have a basic package that costs about $50 a month including cable.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. It's tough to get by without Spanish.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. The sidewalks are difficult to maneuver with potholes, there aren't always ramps for the handicapped, and the public transportation isn't very sensitive to their needs either.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are safe enough, again, with precautions. The city bus is usually $.25, to other towns you'll pay between $1-2 for places within 2 hours. A ten-minute taxi ride costs about $2.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Be aware your car will get beaten up by all the potholes in this city. And the drivers scare me.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Our cable plan includes internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Within Quito most people use Movistar, and it's good if you pay as you go and don't get a plan. They often have specials to recharge your minutes. Porta has better service in the more rural parts of the country and apparently has better monthly plans. If you want to use a blackberry or Iphone here, bring yours from home. It's about two to three times as expensive to buy one here, and you can get it easily unlocked for about $20 to use with one of the Ecuadorian carriers. A very basic phone costs about $60.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
no.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are some kennels available. I saw one in Tumbaco, it seemed nice enough.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Teaching English at private businesses is available, though I don't know how much it pays.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Ecuadorian women dress in skirts or long pants and high heels (torture walking up those hills on uneven pavement!). Men often wear suits to work. I usually dress nicely for work. I never wear shorts here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
YES. Quito is not safe. Physically we don't feel threatened, and we walk around all over the city during the day. But, when we get on the buses we watch where our things are. At night we try to travel in groups. It's important to always use your instincts and best judgment and avoid areas that are empty of people or feel wrong. We have had one friend (a guy) that was physically attacked by a group of men and robbed. We also have lots of stories of people being pickpocketed on the city buses, or having bags slashed on intercity buses (usually if you put the bags on the ground by your seat). It's not scary, at least not for me, I'm just always aware of where I am and who is around me.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is cheap and there is a pretty good hospital here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Quito' air is not so good. A lot of buses (probably more buses than any other city I've been in) and they all spew exhaust as they chug up the hills. But outside Quito it's beautiful.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Quito has a rainy season. The rain begins every day around 3 and goes until late in the night. Bring umbrellas and rain coats! It gets chilly. At night the temperatures drop to the 50s. Always wear two or three layers, plus a jacket. When it doesn't rain, the temperatures can get up into the low 70s. But the temperature varies so much from 9 am to 2 pm to 5 pm to 10 pm.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Colegio AmericanoCotopaxiColegio MenorI teach at Colegio Americano. Generally the school is well run and the teachers are motivated. Many of the teachers have Masters degrees. A few are not certified in the U.S. The school is mostly for upper class Ecuadorians. They take several classes in Spanish and half their classes in English. But Spanish is primarily spoken in the halls among the students. I have met a lot of teachers from Cotopaxi. I can't say much about the school, but it has a larger gringo population. It has a good reputation. I don't know much about Menor.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Colegio Americano has a special needs coordinator. If you want your child to get individual attention, you need to lobby for it. There are some efforts to get the teachers sensitive to the issues, and teachers meet once a week to discuss students, but it isn't as organized as what I saw in the States. If you want the teachers to take a special interest in your child there, you will need to contact them and tell them exactly what you want.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Within our community, there are probably about forty that I know of. I think you could meet more if you go to the English-language churches, or hang out at bars in Mariscal. There are a lot of gringos in this city.
2. Morale among expats:
Medium. Some people don't like the crime. I enjoy the country so much. I don't love Quito, but Ecuador is amazing. And the Ecuadorians that I have met are really nice.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
We go to a lot of restaurants and bars, especially in Mariscal.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles, not bad. At least at our school there are a lot of single teachers and they head down to Mariscal a lot where there are bars and clubs. For couples it's okay as well. There are things to do, though not as many cultural things as in a medium-city in the States. It's harder to find those things, and sometimes I can't figure out how to get tickets for things I want to do. Families might struggle, because it's mostly apartment living and the drivers here are terrible, so you really have to watch your children on the street. There are some parks, but I haven't noticed a ton of playgrounds.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Unknown. Generally Ecuadorians are homophobic. Although the laws do protect homosexuals.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender - it's a macho country. Women are often whistled or hissed at. American women are sometimes frustrated with relationships with Ecuadorian men because they tend not to be as faithful. The main religion is Catholic. I think Ecuadorians are not discriminatory on purpose, as much as they are unaware of other religious beliefs and think they are strange. In terms of race, there is some prejudice against Asians. I don't know so much what the experience is for blacks.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We took a trip over New Year's to Sacha Lodge in the rainforest - that was one of the best trips I've ever done in my life. We saw so many animals and learned so much about the Amazon basin.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Mariscal for bars and nightlife. Walks around Centro Historico. Walks to Parque la Carolina and Parque Metropolitano. Karaoke bars along Eloy Alfaro. Take the teleferico and hike up Rucu Pichincha. Really, Quito only has moderate attractions for me. I like getting out of Quito best.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Otavalo Market!!! textiles, hats, scarves, paintings, jewelery... all kinds of cool Ecuadorian crafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Quito is a big, somewhat polluted city. There are some cultural aspects to Quito, but it's not my favorite place. A lot of the comforts of home are available here, for those interested. They have large SuperMaxi supermarkets, that are very similar to what is available in the States. Some very nice malls, though they are a bit expensive (think U.S. prices, or twice U.S. prices for electronics). The country of Ecuador is beautiful and a real treat to visit. There is so much biodiversity here, from the top of 11,000 foot mountains, to the low, hot, and humid rainforest and coast. This is definitely a country for nature lovers and hikers. The Ecuadorians are generally helpful and friendly, just always use caution, especially in Quito and Guayaquil.
11. Can you save money?
yes - We're spending about $3500 a month (including apt, groceries, and travel). We live pretty comfortably.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would, my husband wouldn't.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coat (unless you climb Cotopaxi).
3. But don't forget your:
Street smarts. And electronics.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Lonely planet
