Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 08/30/15
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Buenos Aires, San Salvador, Casablanca, and Jakarta.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. There are three direct flights to the U.S. currently: via Miami on American Airlines, Houston on United, and Atlanta on Delta. Some additional routes should open in the near future.
3. How long have you lived here?
We lived in Quito from summer 2012 to summer 2015.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Working at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Artisan Market – occupying a city block, it has row after row of vendors selling clothing, chocolate, jewelry, trinkets, and other items. At the end of row six you’ll find the ice cream place, which has a variety of fruit-based desserts – yum!
Mercado Iñaquitos - S0° 10.292' W78° 29.145' this is a large market, about a city block, which has a variety of vendors selling meats, produce, etc. It’s one of the cheaper places to purchase fruits and vegetables. It’s not geared towards tourists.
Butcher Shops
El Arbolito – is a deli shop that has decent cold cuts. They make good party platters.
El Cordobes – is our favorite shop. They have two locations: one in Quito and another in Tumbaco. The Tumbaco store is their main one. They can vacuum-seal food, which makes storing things easier. They offer imported meat from Uruguay/Argentina and local cuts. Pretty much everything is good.
Federer – we like their salami the best. Their products are sold in other locations like Supermaxi.
Supermaxi – some people complain about the quality of meat, but we find it’s okay. Their lomo fino (tenderloin) is great and less expensive than El Cordobes.
Swiss Corner – is near Ventura Mall in Tumbaco and has our favorite sausages. Their products are sold in a few other locations like a grocery store in La Esquina in Cumbaya.
Bread stores
Cyrano - is our go-to place for bread. We like their Sin Levadura in particular. They often have Italian-style ice cream under the brand Corfu as part of their stores.
Jurgen – has two locations, one in Quito and the other just off the Cumbaya plaza. It’s a Dutch bakery and has very good bread. Try their tomato/basil rolls.
2. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Quito has a surprisingly good dining scene with a variety of local and international cuisines. Like other places in Latin America, many open after 1830, although some have other hours. Make sure to call ahead if you’re planning a special night out. We’ve starred our favorite spots, and will break them down by category.
American
*Chili’s – located above Supercines (across from Megamaxi, near Quicentro Mall). Awesome Blossom – need we say more?
TGI Friday’s – is located inside Paseo San Francisco and is pretty similar to what you’d experience in the U.S.
Tony Roma’s – is near CCI mall at the top of Parque Carolina. The ribs are pretty good, but hamburgers are disappointing. The food is pricey and not our favorite.
Smoqe - is an American-owned BBQ joint in Cumbaya. It’s not our favorite compared to places in the U.S., but it offers a nice change of pace from other offerings.
Arabic
*El Arabe – is owned by a Syrian family and is located on Reina Victoria in downtown Quito.
Baalbek – 6 de diciembre N23-103 y Wilson a popular joint, it has pretty good food. It gets crowded so make sure to make a reservation in advance. I showed up on a Monday night once and it was completely closed.
Asian
*Zao - is a popular place that costs about $15 a main course. It has nice ambiance and tasty pot stickers.
*Maki – is a Japanese place with good sushi.
*Noe – the most popular sushi chain in Quito, they have locations throughout the city. They also deliver, which is nice to have a different type of carry out.
Ati Korean Grill – we haven’t eaten here, but friends of ours rave about the high-quality food. It’s always packed with Koreans.
Brazilian
Rodizio Botafogo - we had the buffet at this rodizio style restaurant. The food was okay, but I didn’t like the sides very much. For $40 a person it was pricey.
Ecuadorian
*Hotel Gangotena – located just off Plaza San Francisco, it is a historic hotel with a nice restaurant. We recommend making reservations.
La Chosa – this is a very casual place located directly in front of the Swissotel. The food is tasty, and it’s a good way to show visitors different types of local cuisine. They have live music on the weekends.
*La Patria – this is a higher end restaurant located just off the main plaza in Cumbaya. Their portion sizes are quite generous and the ambiance is fun.
Zinc – this is a fun place to go on a Friday night. They have good hamburgers and tapas-type plates.
Ichimbia - S0° 13.167' W78° 30.179', there are a few restaurants in this area (Sol y Luna is good), which has one of the best overlooks of the city. It’s especially nice at night, although traffic can be bad.
El Tradicion – is on Rio Coca, towards the northern end of town. It has very typical dishes, large portions, and is relatively inexpensive.
Empanadas
Campoviejo – is a chain restaurant with locations scattered throughout town. Nothing amazing, but inexpensive and tasty.
*Satuco – offers Bolivian salteñas (sweet, savory, and very juicy) with chicken or beef. They have three sizes, and the small or medium ones are perfect for parties.
*El Cordobes – is actually an Argentine butcher shop. They sell beef and chicken empanadas for $1.50, which are very good.
Chilean – heading towards Mitad del Mundo you’ll find a number of places selling Chilean empanadas.
French
Chez Jerome - S0° 11.806' W78° 28.866'. – is one of the nicest restaurants in town and a good place for an anniversary dinner.
Le Petit Pegale – we haven’t eaten here, but have friends that highly recommend it.
German
Muckis – is the preferred restaurant of the director of Schlumberger. It’s located on the outskirts of town, so going there is a multi-hour affair, but worth it.
Italian
Carmine – is a very high end (and expensive) restaurant. They have lots of weddings here, and the ambiance is pretty.
La Brichola – located in Cumbaya, it has a laid-back atmosphere which includes an outdoor playground for kids, perfect for a weekend.
El Arcadia - is located in La Esquina in Cumbaya. It makes fresh pasta, which is sold at various gourmet stores throughout town.
El Hornero – is best known for pizza but has a number of pasta dishes too. It’s pretty inexpensive and popular with families. Some locations like the one in Cumbaya have play equipment.
Il Risotto – it’s in Bellavista and is a popular upper-mid range establishment.
Mexican
*La Vecindad de los Cuates - this restaurant has two locations: one in Quito and another in Cumbaya. The food is very authentic and comes in large portions.
Peruvian/seafood fusion
These don’t serve plates like aji de gallina or papas de la huancaÃna. Rather, they focus on Peruvian style seafood or international dishes.
*Lua – S0° 12.457' W78° 28.977' one of our favorite restaurants in Quito, it’s located in La Floresta. Try the sliced octopus with sun dried tomatoes.
*Zazu – often rated as the best restaurant in Quito, we thought it was pretty good, but expensive. I preferred going here for lunch as opposed to dinner. Their chocolate dessert is to die for, and their tomato soup is quite good.
*La Gloria - S0° 12.392' W78° 28.954'. They have a variety of seafood and local dishes. One of their signature plates is a fish covered in a salt paste and baked. Their veal shank is tasty too.
Pizza
Al Forno – has tasty flat bread pizza.
Domino’s – similar to Papa John’s, they have several locations.
Papa John’s – they have restaurants scattered throughout town. It’s not as good as the states, but provides a good taste of home.
*Piola – located inside Paseo San Francisco, this flat bread pizza place is very good and has fast service.
Steak houses
We haven’t eaten at these places, but have had them recommended by friends: Sur, Los Troncos, San Telmo
3. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Quito's high elevation eliminates most pests.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Most expats bring items with them as they travel back and forth. Ecuador is severely limiting outside shipments due to currency issues. Make friends with someone at the U.S. Embassy and see if they can send that special item for you. FedEx, UPS, and DHL all operate in Ecuador, but they are expensive options.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We paid our 1/2 time maid $220 a month plus all the other bonuses (13th, 14th, and 15th month bonuses, vacation, local health insurance (IESS), and severance). Make sure to have a written contract.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are everywhere, with prices ranging from $25 to $200 a month. Most decent gyms will cost about $80 a month, pretty pricey.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Available everywhere, just be careful of skimmers. Make sure to use ATMs in crowded areas. Some banks have been known to tip off criminals when people make large cash withdrawals from the counter.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few protestant groups, one Episcopalian church, and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints which have English-speaking services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
While many people speak English, you need to know Spanish.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Ecuador prides itself on helping those with disabilities. For example, businesses have requirements to employ certain numbers of disabled individuals. That said, the infrastructure does not meet the needs of that reality. Sidewalks are narrow, and often have stairs. A fair number of buildings have wheelchair ramps, but they are certainly not universal.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are plentiful, but make sure to use the ones with orange plates. The others are not fully registered. It goes without saying that hopping into a unmarked car is a bad idea. You can also take safe taxis from the major hotels.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We liked having a 4x4 for the extra ground clearance. You'll find Honda, Toyota, Kia, Hyundai, Chevrolet, and a smattering of Chinese makes. Cars are very, very expensive because of local import taxes (think twice the price of the U.S.).
Phone & Internet:
1. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You have two main options: Claro or Movistar. Each has slightly different prices and coverages. We paid about $20 a month for a plan that included 500 MB of data.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Quiteños dress pretty formally, even to go grocery shopping. Tank tops, low cut shorts, baggy pants, etc. would be viewed as inappropriate. That said, people are used to seeing foreigners dress in pretty much anything (or nothing).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is quite a bit of petty theft and street crime. We avoided certain areas of town, just like we would in any major city, and never had any issues personally. We never took buses, but we do know of several people who were robbed using public transport. There are motorcycle attacks, ATM hijackings (when someone kidnaps you and drives around to different ATMs), and spiked drinks. Again, we never had any issues, and we felt very safe, especially compared to many other places in Central and South America. For example, there are no armed guards or razor wire, like you will find in Honduras and El Salvador. Gangs are not an issue.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are two decent hospitals: Hospital de los Valles and Hospital Metropolitano. You can find many Western-educated physicians that graduated from top-tier schools such as Johns Hopkins. We found dental care to be very affordable and of pretty good quality. Our pediatric dentist, Natalie Jarrin, was particularly good. Many providers speak English. Health care costs are much lower than in the U.S. For example, a sonogram is about $40 compared to $350+ in the States.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Quito's weather is very similar to that in San Francisco - in the high 70's/low 80's during the day, and in the upper 50's in the evening. There are basically two seasons: rainy and dry. During the rainy season it rains most days, but generally briefly.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Quito has several good international schools: Academia Cotopaxi (about 600 students, where most U.S. Embassy children attend), Alliance Academy (an evangelical school), Menor, Condamine (a French-speaking school), a German school, the British School, and Colegio Americano (a more affordable English-speaking school with about 2,300 students). Alberto Einstein and SEK are other options, but they primarily have local kids.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Academia Cotopaxi has not done well previously with special-needs children, but it has had a major shift with the new director. They hired several specialists last year and are accepting children with up to moderate disabilities. Alliance has traditionally been known as the school for special needs children, and they pride themselves on their programs. The British School has also accommodated children with mild cases of autism and dyslexia. We could not find an English-speaking speech therapist in Quito.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nannies are inexpensive, and there are lots of decent preschools. We considered sending our daughter to Ki Kiri Kids, a farm in Cumbaya that doubles as a preschool.
Expat Life:
1. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, all of the above.
2. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Being in Latin America, most people frown on homosexuality. That said, Ecuador has taken a number of steps to be more inclusive, such as allowing the registration of civil unions, which includes gay couples, since 2013.
3. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
*Jardin Botanico is a great way to experience different microclimates of Ecuador, and it’s located in the middle of Parque Carolina. Plan on 1.5 hours for your visit.
Minicity, located between Cumbaya and Tumbaco, is a kids' museum with a bunch of miniature playhouses (doctor’s office, bank, etc.).
*Museo Interactivo de las Ciencias – S0° 14.192' W78° 31.034' this is the best children’s museum in Quito. It was converted from a textile factory and has many hands-on exhibits, including a physics experiment room. In many ways it rivals any major natural history museum in the States. You could easily spend 4 or more hours here.
*Vertigo – We stumbled across this climbing area in Cumbaya, which is just west of Scala mall. It’s open until 10:00 p.m., in case you want to exercise after work. You can pay $7 to have two climbs on their large walls (equipment included) or pay a fee to get in and use your own gear. It’s a fun place for kids' parties.
*Day trips from Quito:
*Boliche – S0° 37.187' W78° 34.429' This ecological reserve is about 1.5 hours from Quito. It has lots of playground equipment and some large spaces to explore. They have two loop trails: one lasts just over an hour, and the other takes about 30 minutes. Their camping areas are surprisingly nice – they have a very large open area with pavilions covering picnic tables and grills. The foliage is unlike any other place we've seen in Ecuador, and it felt like we were in the Pacific Northwest with the large pine trees. Just make sure to arrive before 5:00 p.m., when the gates close.
Cascada San Rafael – S0° 06.222' W77° 35.320' is the largest waterfall in Ecuador and is located about 3 hours from Quito. Drive towards Tena but don't take the turnoff to Baeza. It’s another 60 kilometers up the road from the turnoff. While it’s a long drive on a very windy road, the view is quite pretty. The trail has gravel and takes about 45 minutes. You can also see the Cascada Magica, which lets you get right to the water’s edge (prepare to get soaked) and costs $2 per person. It’s only 5-10 minutes to get to the falls. You can see a collection of orchids nearby (call Edgar Guerrero, the owner, at 0984079953 to confirm a tour, which lasts 30-45 minutes as he explains about different species).
*Cayambe/Coca – this large national park has two main entrances: one from the Papallacta parking lot, and another about 10 kilometers before Papallacta. It’s similar to Parque Nacional Las Cajas in that it’s a very wet high tundra region. You can hike between the two entrances, although it would be very long for one day. Camping is possible, but make sure to bring warm gear. The trails are quite beautiful.
Condor Machay – 17 km from Sangolqui, you’ll find a large waterfall after a 4.1 km hike. It takes about 2 hours and is pretty easy walking. You can camp too.
*Cotopaxi – S0° 40.731' W78° 33.187' there are two principal entrances to the park: one on the northern end, and another more towards the middle. The northern entrance takes you by a number of haciendas where you can overnight (San Agustin has lots of good reviews), horseback ride, etc. It is very bumpy, as it is all cobblestones. The middle entrance is the primary one, and it takes you to a check-in point where you'll have to register before proceeding further. About 20 minutes from the gate you'll get to the parking lot, from where you can start your climb. Cotopaxi has two trails to the Refugio (a restaurant/small house just below the glacier level), one straight up, and another with switchbacks. While the straight trail looks easier, it’s tough going because of the loose rock. With little kids it’s easier using the switchbacks and coming down the straight route. It gets very cold and rainy on the mountain, so be sure to bring weatherproof gear. It takes about 1.25 hours to climb to the refugio and another 45 minutes to reach the glacier.
You’ll find a few lakes in the park, and can hike around the largest one (about 1.5 hours) if the weather is poor on the mountain.
You can camp in a few spots, but make sure to bring warm gear as it’s windy and cold at night.
Places to eat:
Inside the park you'll find an hacienda, Tambopaxi S0° 35.244' W78° 26.934', which is a nice place to eat with great views.
Café de la Vaca – S0° 32.389' W78° 35.000', in between Cotopaxi’s two entrances, this restaurant is very popular with locals. Try one of their varieties of locro – it’s one of the best we've tried.
Guallabamba
Bosque Protector Jerusalém – this unique dry forest is about 45 minutes from Quito. They have several trails, a large swimming pool, a nice playground, and areas for camping. It’s an easy place to camp with families because it hardly ever rains here.
Zoo – S0° 04.296' W78° 21.353' This is one of our favorite zoos ever. While there’s not a huge variety of animals, there’s lots of shade, and some creatures like tapirs and peccaries you won't see outside the Amazon. Plan on 1.5 hours for the tour. It’s about 45 minutes north of Quito.
Machachi – some friends of ours stayed at a place they highly recommend: Hacienda Alegria.
Maquipucuna – http://www.maqui.org/ is an ecological preserve similar to Mindo. While we have not visited, we hear good things about the hiking trails and birding opportunities.
*Molinuco – S0° 25.296' W78° 24.321' this entertainment complex is about 45 minutes from Quito, south of Sangolqui. It has a few zip lines, several climbing towers, trout fishing, and three hiking trails. It’s easy walking, and the kids especially liked the loop tour that took us by a series of waterfalls.
Pasochoa – N0° 50.572' W79° 55.216' is another hiking/reserve area. It’s about 40 minutes from Quito and has quite a few pretty trails.
*Papallacta – S0° 21.718' W78° 08.998' these thermal hot springs are about 1.5 hours from Quito. They have three areas: general pools, a spa, and hotel rooms/cabañas that have their own pools. Temperatures range from ice cold to scalding hot, and our kids loved hopping between areas. Make sure to use sunscreen, even if it’s overcast. UV rays come through the clouds and will burn if you're not careful. It’s very beautiful at night, but be careful driving back in the evening. It almost always fogs over, and visibility is very poor. There’s a decent restaurant inside, or you can bring a picnic lunch.
Pululahua – you can visit this volcanic crater preserve just north of town as a day trip or overnight experience. To access the main area, turn right just after the large Tia warehouse. You’ll follow a dirt road for about 10 minutes to get to the main entrance. It’s another 30 minutes to the crater floor (high clearance recommended). Near the main entrance, you'll see a brick path leading to a camping/picnic area (a 10-15 minute hike). Behind one of the pavilions you'll find a 1 km trail that leads through a bamboo forest. It’s a pretty hike and easy for kids.
At the crater floor you can camp next to the Pululahua Hostel, http://www.pululahuahostal.com/, (although it gets crowded and there are cars passing at all hours during the night). The Hostel can arrange for horseback rides at reasonable rates and even takes PayPal. You can go on several hikes in the crater, even to a small hot spring.
*Yanacocha – S0° 06.509' W78° 34.949' an ecological reserve west of Quito, this cloud forest gives you a sample of visiting Mindo but closer to Quito. They have lots of birds in the area, and the side trails are beautiful. It takes about 45 minutes to hike to the hummingbird feeders (there are three main feeding areas, all fairly close to each other).
4. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Ecotourism options are incredible. In a relatively small area you have beautiful beaches, Amazon rainforests, high Andean tundras, and of course, the Galapagos islands. Within four hours of Quito you can be in a huge range of places. Birding is exceptionally good, and you'll see lots of people coming to observe the various species.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. Quito was one of our favorite overseas posts.
2. Do you have any other comments?
Other Useful Guides
http://www.welcomeecuador.com
http://birdsinecuador.com/en/ gives good recommendations with maps of specific areas
http://www.notyouraverageamerican.com/ is a blog by an Embassy family that has great photos and recommendations.
