Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 09/09/16
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - We have served in Singapore and New Delhi.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA - 5 hours from Miami and then connect to other cities so time varies.
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is old but sufficient. With regular earthquakes and tremors cracked walls are common. Many apartment buildings are new and quite nice. The commute is horrible during morning and evening rush hours. Plan on a 5 mile trip taking 45 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are surprisingly expensive but not much more than a major city in the USA. Availability of local items is consistent but imported items cannot always be relied upon. An item could be on the shelves one week and then not available ever again. Items from a home-goods store or garden supply store are much higher than in the USA.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Having lived abroad plenty I rarely regret not shipping something as I learn to live without. However, I can say that if you do not have access to good international mail (DPO) bring clothing as it is quite pricey in this city and shoes are not of great quality. I laughed seeing that shoes as Payless here cost well over $50 for the cheapest kids' shoes.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are restaurants of all kinds but good Asian and good Tex Mex are very hard to find. If you eat out a lot plan on spending a lot. We do not. As for delivery, it is available but quite a chore if your Spanish isn't amazing.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, but the local facilities seem fine.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Many hire part-time help and I have hear various comments. If you are coming from Asia you might be surprised by the difference in quality of work here. Helpers (empleadas) are usually hired to help with household chores and/or childcare. It is nice to have someone if your Spanish is too weak to help with weekly tasks like ordering gas/water/etc. or even making appointments. Any time I have to use the phone in Spanish my stress level rises.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are plenty and all varieties but not sure of the cost. With so many amazingly beautiful volcanoes to hike I am not sure why anyone would use the gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cards are accepted and widely used but use with caution and check your bills. ATM lines are always long in the mornings but I would never use them as hold-ups have occurred.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not many. There is one English speaking church (English Fellowship Church) that caters to the missionary groups that come through regularly. There is La Vina, a church with an English service. I understand there is another more ecumenical church with English-language services, but I have never been. Knowing Spanish will give you a much greater selection.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A LOT! There are tutors and classes. I paid $15/hour
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
YES. The hills are steep and the sidewalks are atrocious.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Quite affordable but crowded. I have heard of many young expat girls being harassed on longer bus routes. Use EZ-taxi for taxis and you shouldn't have any problems. Privately hired car services are VERY expensive.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
High clearance and 4WD/AWD. Your car will be challenged by the steep hills. Make sure your car comes with new brakes and tires.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes but what they say they provide and what you get are two different things. Your internet can be set up in a week but expect outages and skipping if you use it to stream TV.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I use a vet from the Netherlands who has lived here forever. She speaks English and even makes house calls. They board cats and dogs, and the facility is just fine. Animals do not need to be quarantined but make sure you have done ALL the paperwork or your animal might stay locked up in a cargo facility.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Teachers in international schools but most hires are directly from the U.S. if they are expat hires. All schools are in need of substitute teachers and ESL volunteer teachers. Pay is low and the hoops you jump through to get paid are high.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
MANY -- Pan de Vida serves meals twice a week and is always welcoming help, after the earthquake in April there have been many trips out of the city to help rebuild. As mentioned above there are many opportunities to volunteer-teach ESL.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women's fashions range from professional to knit stretch pants and a t-shirt. Dress is varied based on employment. Men are usually in casual business attire. Formal or semi-formal attire for women is needed for most evening events like special birthdays, diplomatic functions, etc. Women like to dress up -- high heels and dresses either floor length or 6 inches+ above the knees.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Women who stand out (blondes) need to take care to be in a group or be very aware of who is around you. Our 18 year old daughter has been "attacked" (grabbed, groped, harassed physically) several times in the middle of the day. Thieves on motorcycles grabbing purses happens on occasion. There have been several armed break-ins as well. Having said this I do not feel Quito is any more dangerous than most large U.S. cities. Its about knowing where to be and when.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The effect of the altitude is real and it will take some time to adjust to it. However the climate makes for a fairly clear air (off the main roads and outside traffic). One of our kids experiences allergies but because the seasons do not really change we have yet to figure out the culprit. There are two very nice hospitals and so far we have experienced super health care. However, I have heard horror stories related to surgeries so many go back to the U.S. for major surgeries.
3. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
If you have a gluten or wheat allergy food will be a challenge as bread is everywhere! I think store labels are pretty clear on items but know the Spanish words for your allergens. If you live in "the Valley" (Cumbaya/Miravalle/Tumbaco) mold can be an issue as water leaks in the old homes are rarely fixed properly.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
With the amazing climate SAD shouldn't be an issue. I think the language barriers which can prevent establishing solid friendships might be the only major issue.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Perfecto!! There is a "rainy season" but after living through Asian monsoons, we had to laugh. Every day has been glorious.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I have NOT been impressed with the international schools here. There are 4 main schools that people from the USA usually consider: Academia Cotopaxi, Alliance Academy, Colegio Menor and Colegio Americano. Right off Americano and Menor are mostly wealthy Ecuadorean, and Spanish is the only language of "the playground" even if instruction is in both. Alliance is faith-based and going through some changes making it a bit unstable at the moment but will strengthen again in a year or so. They offer A.P. courses. Cotopaxi is the most popular with diplomats and offers the I.B. program.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
AAI offers accommodations and help but parents pay for special education services on top of tuition. AC is new to offering accommodations.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
AC offers an amazing preschool but there are several around the city. They are all expensive. Day care isn't common as people hire help. There are after-school programs at both AC and AAI but late bus transportation isn't always available.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes -- in Spanish.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is small compared to other posts and the morale is all over the place. Families that are bilingual with Spanish seem to settle in the fastest.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are clubs, salsa dancing, restaurants, home parties. People party well into the night.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I wouldn't want to be a single woman here. The attitude towards women is not good. Couples do well if they love to be outside and active. Families do well if kids are younger. Teens can be challenging if you don't want your kids drinking every weekend and going to parties where parents provide the bar.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Although being gay is not accepted in this strictly macho and Catholic society, there are communities of gays. There is several groups even in the high schools. However, I still think it would be difficult.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender equality?? Hahaha! Coastal minority groups tend to be looked down upon.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The weather and sun, without sweating.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We love hitting very small local food establishments as they are much cheaper and you seem to see the "real Ecuador" as opposed to Quito. Of course this is the home to the Galapagos so save your money as its not cheap (cheaper if you are a diplomat as you can get Ecuadorian prices). Many also plan to hike a portion of the Incan trail to Machu Pichu in Peru while living here. Otherwise hacienda stays, volcano climbing, white water rafting, hot springs, etc. can more than fill your time.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are but after a year they look kitschy and cheap. Some nicer things you can buy are fabrics and wooden furniture made to order.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I was told how amazing the Latin American culture was in terms of hospitality and friendliness. Quito does NOT fit this stereotype. Even friends who have lived in other parts of Ecuador say this city is not stereotypical.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Maybe not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothing (except maybe a few pieces if you brave the seriously high mountains) and your sports car.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience, Spanish.
