Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 03/04/17
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, have lived at other Latin American posts.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's about five hours direct to the U.S, which is nice. American flies to Miami or Dallas, United to Houston, Delta to Atlanta, and Jet Blue to Ft Lauderdale.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is a work in progress. Post begin transitioning to govt leased housing in 2014. There are still some houses toward Cumbaya, but most are in Monteserrin or Gonzalez Suarez. Families are mostly put in Monteserrin in clusters of single family homes called "conjuntos" or apartments. The construction tends to be older, and many people have had problems with black mold and pests. Facilities is not used to dealing with residential maintenance, so expect pushback for each and every work order. Security is visually good, but there have been some home invasions and armed robberies. Some places have yards and others have concrete slabs. That said, it is closer to the Embassy and to the American school, which is convenient. Gonzalez Suarez apartments are nice and large and closer to shops and restaurants, but commute can be 30+ minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
As the economy gets worse, the cost of everything is going up. Fruits, vegetables, and meat tends to be a little less expensive than in the States but other products are more expensive. Paper and hygiene products are more expensive and poor quality. Liquor is heavily taxed.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Mainly things that won't come through DPO. Shampoo, conditioner, lotions, big things of olive oil, liquor, white wine. The commissary has some stuff but the prices are high.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Dominos, Pizza Hut, and Papa John's all deliver. Ecuadorian food is not the best but there are some good restaurants for special occasions.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Apartments seem to be in the clear. Since houses tend to be older they seem to have more problems with giant spiders, scorpions, mice, ants, etc. If you can seal up the house, that helps some.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There was recently an issue with the Ministry of Labor and now it is virtually impossible for diplomats to register a contract. The employee association used to assist with this, apparently the government won't let them anymore. So now they are pushing people to use a service, where you have little to no say in who you get or how much they are paid. Haven't heard any horror stories yet, but seems like a disaster waiting to happen. Minimum wage is $350 a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has an OK gym and people run boot camps every once in awhile.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are common, but this is a critical crime post and stories about post-ATM withdrawal muggings are also common. Carry a small amount of cash and be careful and aware of your surroundings.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need at least a little, but most people are kind enough to entertain imperfect Spanish. Classes and tutors are widely available.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I think buses are not allowed, but taxis are plentiful and generally safe. In Quito they are required to use meters and the minimum fare is $1.50.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
People get by with sedans, but most have mid sized SUVs. Gas is fixed price and not expensive. Lots of Honda Pilots and Toyota 4 Runners. Definitely bring a car and plan to sell it when you leave. Cars are heavily taxed here and you'll have Ecuadorians lining up to buy your car for whatever you paid 2 years earlier.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, the employee association can help set it up. There are a bunch of options but most people seem to pay around $100 for something that will work with Netflix and VOIP.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are good vet services and boarding places. No quarantine.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are very few embassy jobs and most require Spanish, even if you don't technically need it for the position. Seems to be the usual WHA ruse. There are a few EFMs in rover slots, consular, one EPAP, and that's about it. Most spouses volunteer with Quito Cares, an organization benefiting different charities around town. Some people have home businesses. Not aware of anyone who works on the economy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Everyone volunteers with Quito Cares, it's a good cause but almost cult-like at the embassy. Proceeds go to a handful of local charities, but it's almost like a social club. There are tons of other worthy causes if you want to branch out, and you could volunteer directly with hospitals and orphanages and domestic violence victims if you wanted to make a greater impact.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual, usually. Business sometimes. Formal events are rare.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. This is a critical crime post. Crime against mission personnel happens every day. The area around the embassy is not safe, people have been attacked right in front of the main gate. Housing areas are in upscale neighborhoods but muggings happen and I wouldn't walk around after dark. The crime situation seems to be getting worse and not better with the economy and the earthquake aftermath.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Fewer than most posts. Zika, dengue, chikunganya, etc are at lower elevations. Food poisoning mostly. Colds and flu do seem to linger here longer than normal. No poisonous bugs. Medical care is OK, the health unit knows English speaking and U.S. trained personnel if that's a concern. Anything requiring major surgery would probably require medevac.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. Seems to be more of an issue toward the city center. The embassy and housing are in the northern area of Quito where there isn't as much traffic. But you still see a haze some days.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There is a rainy season, about November to March. Otherwise it is pretty much 50-70F year round. The sun is very strong so you need to bring sunscreen. Layers are key. You would only need winter gear if you're into mountaineering, and only need summer clothes if you travel to the coast or the jungle.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium in Quito, but Ecuador is a growing expat destination and there are clusters of Americans all over the country... mainly Cuenca but also on the coast. Morale is pretty good. It's kind of fun to travel around and stay in some of the hostels that expats have set up. They always have interesting stories.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Quito has a healthy backpacker scene in La Mariscal, I think that's the closest thing to a real nightlife that you'll find here. It isn't a party town, but there's enough to get you by if you're into that. Head down to Montañita on the weekends if you want more.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Mainly for families. It seems like almost everyone has little kids at this post. OK for couples and singles but possibly a bit boring unless you love the outdoors.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Ecuador is very accessible to tourists, take advantage of this to enjoy the country during your tour. Pretty much everything is within a couple hours drive. Coast, beach, boating, farms, remote villages, plantations, mountains, camping, rafting, fishing, zip lining. Great for the outdoorsy crowd. Galapagos is very expensive so don't harbor any illusions about going there more than once or twice. That said, it is worth it.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Papallacta, hot springs right outside Quito. Climb a volcano or two.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really, stuff is expensive and not particularly good quality. Our visitors usually buy coffee and chocolate to bring back.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Regional flights are expensive! But it's an easy place to road trip. Highways are in great condition.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It isn't perfect, but it's a decent place to spend a few years.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expensive jewelry.
4. But don't forget your:
Umbrella for rainy season. Spare car parts. Juicer!
