Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 07/23/19
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
US. We are from the East coast so we fly through Atlanta or Miami and catch a connection from there. The total day is about 12 hours. The difficulty is that flights leave out of Quito either around 6am or midnight but the flights are short (4-5 hours) so you lose sleep and need the day you arrive to recover. It's such a pain.
3. How long have you lived here?
2.5 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
If you are single or couple without kids, they will put you in modern, very nice apartment high rises in a hip, centrally located part of town where there is nightlife, restaurants, and walkability to other interesting areas. They may also put you in apartment high rises in North Quito, which is quite a bit closer to the Embassy but farther away from fun and convenience. Nearly all families are in one neighborhood in North Quito that is about 10 minutes to the Embassy and 5 minutes to the international school most families send their kids to. The houses vary a lot in terms of how desirable they are (some are gorgeous, modern and sunny with amazing views; others are old, dark, and cold), whether you have a big yard, etc. But all in all it's a pleasant, safe neighborhood with a big park for the kids.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
In the time we've been here, the grocery store has gotten more imported food products which has been nice but it's basically fine. Groceries are not terribly cheap - they're almost as expensive as a mid-range grocery store in the US like Giant. There are fruterias all over town where you can get inexpensive and fresh produce.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
All of their soaps - hand soap, laundry detergent, dishwashing liquid- are intensely fragrant and filled with chemicals, I've not found anything non-scented here. Less common spices or Asian ingredients are hard to find. And there are very few American brands here so if you are wed to your Rice Krispies or Kind bars, you'll want to bring those.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find almost any type of cuisine here, many are subpar, but there are some good ones...and there are new restaurants opening all the time. They are more expensive than you think they should be though, often costing about as much as dining out in the US. Food delivery is becoming more and more common with Uber eats and some other local companies. For those living in North Quito this has been key because there are virtually no restaurants that are not Ecuadorian fare.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I think the biggest recurring problem here is water damage. The houses do not withstand the rainy season. Some folks thus have to deal with concomitant mold or with GSO frequently making repairs at their house.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use DPO 90% of the time and pouch once in a while. There is a FedEx for important documents.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Families with young kids usually hire full-time empleadas who do housekeeping and childcare. Minimum is $400/month plus overtime, other benefits such as social security, and bonuses of 13th and 14th month salaries. When you leave post, you also have to pay them out a hefty sum around $2-3K. Folks with older kids or no kids will go the part-time route or simply hire a maid service, both those costs are very low as you're not locked into a contract in the same way.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a small gym for a very low annual fee. There are gyms, crossfit, yoga studios, personal trainers, etc. I don't really know how much those facilities tend to cost but it's much less expensive than in the US. Personal trainers, massage therapists, etc are very affordable and high quality.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes. RSO recommends against using ATMs around the city. There's an ATM and bank in the Embassy that we use.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I am not the person to ask but there is one Christian church that I think is in English.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need at least a basic level of Spanish. You'll get better quickly because of how much you are required to use Spanish. Local classes and tutors are very affordable. The Embassy offers free online training resources and most Embassy sections will allocate some of their budget to cover the cost for officers and spouses to see the Embassy's tutor weekly.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Sidewalks are narrow and uneven, streets are as well. Many places are not ADA accessible. Regional sightseeing would be even more difficult.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Many people take Uber and taxis regularly - they are very affordable. I think RSO would say to use with caution but I haven't heard of anything happening to someone in our community. RSO recommends against busses.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small cars are great for the city because the streets and parking spaces are narrow and simply not meant to handle SUVs and trucks. SUVs with high clearance, however, are great for driving outside the city, for example, driving up to Cotopaxi or on bumpy roads in the Otavalo region. Maybe something like a Subaru Forester, Honda CRV, or Toyota RAV4 would strike the balance.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes it's generally fast and connected. Via the Embassy, you can get it installed the day you arrive.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
People use Claro or Movistar, local carriers, on unlocked smart phones. Whatsapp is the preferred method of communication.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We don't have pets but many people we know do. There are great vets here who are very knowledgeable and kind. There are kennel services but I'm less sure if people think they are good quality. Many people will hire someone or have their empleada care for their animals while they are gone. Animals are not quarantined upon entry.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
EFMs take jobs at the US Embassy (there are plenty of jobs that are low skill/low paying) or are educators and work at the international schools.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
You can volunteer anywhere but there's no longer anything organized through the Embassy.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The Embassy is business attire. Otherwise around town you'll see the gamut.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpocketing, smash and grabs, express kidnapping are the main things. I generally feel safe but I take precautions whenever I am out.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We are at high altitude (9,000 feet) and people have a variety of reactions to that from sleep disturbance to high blood pressure. Others don't really feel it. Medical care is pretty good but for something serious I would ask to be medevaced because they do not have state-of-the-art technologies and resources here. One positive though is that the doctors do not rush you in and out, they are extremely personable and available; it is normal to have your doctor's phone number and text them whenever you need/want.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
In North Quito, where the Embassy, school, and neighborhoods are located, is completely fine. As you get downtown and into the historic district there is pollution.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are only the dry and rainy seasons here. It seems like we go through cycles of environmental allergies more often than in the US. Hopefully an allergy pill would help those who suffer a lot. Food allergies - I think if you specify when you're out, the server will be able to help you find something you can eat.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Nothing in particular.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The overall climate is spectacular. It's sunny a LOT of the time and in the mid 60s to mid 70s with low humidity. Even in the rainy season you'll get beautiful days or beautiful mornings. It's about as ideal as it gets. The only downside is that because you are significantly closer to the sun with less atmosphere, you will burn easily and quickly. Even Ecuadorians take care to wear hats, long sleeves, and long pants.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most US Embassy families send their children to Academia Cotopaxi. Overall the school is more than acceptable but it does get mixed reviews from parents (some say children are not pushed enough whereas others report that the literacy program is terrific so do your research). There are other international schools to check out and a few families have chosen the French school or a Christian-based school both of which I've heard positive things about. There are still more international schools with good reputations if you are willing to drive farther.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Academia Cotopaxi will work to meet your child's needs and considers inclusivity an important school value.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Tons of preschools are available. The Embassy has two favorites mainly because of their proximity, both of which get rave reviews from parents. There are daycares as well with similarly happy parents. Imagine, a bilingual program, is on the same campus as Academia Cotopaxi and is the most expensive. I think it is around $300/child for the month. You can also pay more for before- and after-care as well as transportation. Paraiso Infantil is a couple blocks from the Embassy and is Spanish only. It is a little less expensive than Imagine and also a wonderful environment.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, just about anything you'd want and the teachers are pretty much all fun, warm, loving, and knowledgeable.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's probably small to mid-range here and growing. I think overall Embassy morale is pretty good. I have seen Embassy politics that make the work culture difficult at times and sometimes there is social awkwardness because so many folks are in the same neighborhood and so have clear sightlines into their colleagues' personal lives.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People socialize here like they do anywhere...BBQs and picnics at the park, restaurants and bars, tennis, soccer, hiking, volleyball etc. With a good sized group of people without kids and a good sized group of people with kids, there are lots of opportunities.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's great for everyone.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Same-sex marriage is now legal in Ecuador as of 2019 and while there is still bigotry (eg., push back from Catholics and conservatives of which there are a lot) I think there are worse places to be LGTBQ.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It is easy to make friends with locals as long as you're not dealing with a language barrier.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The prejudices we face in the US are reflected here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We have had a blast touring Ecuador. We have hiked a number of absolutely beautiful mountains/volcanoes within a couple hours of Quito....the Amazon, Mindo, Baños, Mashpi, the Galapagos, Otavalo/Cotacachi, Papallacta, Quilatoa, Cuenca, the coast are all fun and interesting and worth doing. It's a very outdoorsy post.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Iñaquito, a huge indoor food market; Nayon, endless plants to buy; Guapalo and La Floresta, bohemian neighborhoods with street art and interesting architecture; Nono, a little town with a little hike to waterfalls; hummingbird and butterly reserves, any number of rustic haciendas in Otavalo or Machachi province, helado de paila - a local ice cream, chocolate tastings, more hikes to waterfalls, and so on.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
It is but there is a lot of inauthentic stuff made in China that is crowding out the real crafts. There are shops that only sell made in Ecuador crafts but sometimes it is easy to find the primary source and pay the artist directly. People buy blankets, jewelry, baskets, etc. Pewter (which is actually aluminum) is very popular, and Panama hats (which actually originate from Ecuador) are a big souvenir.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Families have very fast and easy drives to the grocery store, work, school, and home ...everything is within 10 minutes of the other and is a major factor in enhanced quality of life for Embassy people. Couples and singles tend to live in a walkable part of town close to entertainment, restaurants, nightlife with work commutes between 30 and 45 minutes. There are several big green spaces with stuff to do. Drivers aren't terrible and traffic isn't nearly as bad as in other Latin American countries. It's just an easy place to live in general.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I would have brought a smaller car for city driving and parking.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
YES! This is an awesome family tour.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Anything for winter. Bills higher than $20.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, bug repellant, hats, jeans, hiking clothes & gear, umbrellas, raincoats. I'd expect to bring most of your clothes too as good clothes can be expensive here. In general, if something being of high quality is important to you, then you should bring it because high quality and/or imported items are prohibitively expensive here...and annoying because you know its cost is so much less in the US.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
It's super cheesy, but there's a promotional video with former president Correa called Ecuador: The Royal Tour. It gives you a good overview of the diversity of the country.
