Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 01/01/09
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Multiple expat experiences in Europe, Africa, Latin America.
2. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Most common international route is via Miami, which is about 4.5 hours from Quito (if the flight isn't delayed). Other American carrier flights to the U.S. go to Houston (Continental) and Atlanta (Delta). KLM has a one-stop flight to Amsterdam and Iberia also has a daily flight. Regional (non-U.S.) airlines periodically offer good deals to U.S. cities.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Affiliated with U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For going to the new U.S. Embassy, commutes typically range from 5-30 minutes in the morning, longer going back home due to traffic patterns and time of day. You have to find your own housing, so your commute is largely up to you. A few areas of the city offer standalone houses of varying quality, otherwise it's large, luxury-style apartments for the diplomatic and (shrinking) business expat crowd. Almost all live in the northern half of the city. Maintenance issues are a fact of life, so plan on dealing with landlords for plumbing, mold, and construction-related issues.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Supermarkets have everything you need, if not everything you want. Prices are more or less comparable to Washington, DC, although with markups on many imported goods. Fresh milk is almost unknown, although UHT milk is plentiful and not terribly expensive. Local markets are also available for cheaper produce, meat, etc. Specific brands and products sometimes come and go from store shelves.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing, although it would be smart to make any major electronics purchases beforehand and ship them with your HHE. Electronics and clothes are pricey and best purchased elsewhere.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
American-style fast food is present (McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut) along with local chains, at reasonable prices. There is a good selection of restaurants across the board, from cheap to pricey, including a variety of international cuisines (especially good Italian, Spanish, and steak places). Seafood is also popular, although at your own risk. Very few decent Asian or Mexican places, although a good Vietnamese place (Uncle Ho's) was opened in the Mariscal Sucre district by an embassy spouse.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Quito has a DPO (successor to APO) which works reasonably well. Ecuadorian mail service should not be trusted. Courier services like FedEx and DHL are also available.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestics are available and relatively cheap (price negotiated), although be careful they don't set you up for a break-in.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are fine at upscale establishments (hotels, restaurants, supermarkets, stores) with a reputation to lose; otherwise, credit card fraud is rampant. ATMs should be used in a protected area, since armed robberies and murders have frequently occurred around them in exposed areas.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
It's tough to find Catholic services in English. Others I understand are available, although again there's not a big demand. A number of evangelical Protestant churches are present in the city.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
No English-language newspapers. Choice between cable and DirecTV, both of which come with English-language channels. Cost dependent on packages selected, roughly comparable to U.S. prices.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very few people speak English, so Spanish is essential.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The usual third-world challenges exist, as outside of upscale hotels and some tourist locations there are no special provisions made.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right. Ecuadorian drivers are aggressive and often ignore traffic laws, signals, signs, etc. Defensive driving is the key. Parking is also a problem in many places.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are very affordable (around US$5 to cross the city) and usually safe, although best to take one from a hotel or taxi stand to be sure. Taxis are metered during the day but have a set price (more expensive) at night. Be sure to ask the price beforehand. Buses and trolleys tend to be packed and embassy employees are told not to use them, although the threat is mostly from pickpocketing rather than anything violent.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any type is fine for the city, although don't bring an uncommon model that can't be fixed locally (Chrysler sedans, Mini Coopers, etc.) If you plan to do a lot of day trips, a four-wheel drive vehicle is useful for those unpaved roads in the countryside. Car break-ins are common, you can mylar your windows locally.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is available, with broadband services (cable or DSL) running around US$50-$100 per month, depending on speed. Good quality, if not giving you the same bang for the buck you can get in other countries.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Three cell phone companies (Porta, Movistar, Allegro) serve the country, the first two being the biggest providers. You can get service very easily, can even buy a kit in a supermarket for around US$40.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype, other VOIP services also available. Cell phone calls are also possible and of good quality, although relatively pricey.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Friends with pets typically leave them with other friends, kennel service doesn't seem to be used much. Vet service is available.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Fewer and fewer, due to economic problems and policies put in place by the government that are increasingly hostile to the private sector. Development and tourism-type jobs are available, although salaries are low by international standards.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Ecuadorians normally wear standard business attire at work: suit and tie for gentlemen, with both skirts and pants considered appropriate for women; fewer short skirts are seen here than elsewhere in Latin America. The climate is in the 50s-70s year-round, on the cooler side except in the hotter, sunny months (June-August), so dress is keyed to that. Short-sleeve shirts and shorts are unusual, except sometimes during the hotter months. Light jackets and layered clothing are the norm, think San Francisco.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Air quality overall is decent, but not when you're behind one of the many large buses belching black smoke.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime in Quito has (officially) doubled in the past year, with armed robberies and break-ins of most concern. Law enforcement is largely impotent. Good security practices on the street and for your home are essential. Any apartment building you live in will have a guard and there are several quasi-gated communities as well.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is reasonable, with two hospitals in the area recommended, one in the city (Hospital Metropolitano). Anything requiring more complicated surgery or modern treatment procedures should be done in the U.S.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are two seasons in Quito, summer (roughly April - October) and winter (the rest of the year). Winter is rainy season, which typically has sunny days turning cloudy and then raining a while in the afternoon or evening. Temperatures are pleasantly in the 70s-80s during the summer days, varying more in the winter with cloud cover and rain, but usually 50s-70s. Nights are cool and fresh. It should be mentioned that earthquakes are fairly frequent and there are several volcanoes are in the area.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The Embassy-associated American school has a mixed reputation and there have been management issues in the past. There are other international schools available in the city as well.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Many embassy families have a spouse who stays at home or works part time, with a nanny.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Shrinking, due to most of the foreign oil companies pulling up stakes and leaving; the Colombian diplomats have also been booted out. The diplomatic community is sizable, if fragmented. Don't expect the Venezuelans and Cubans to be too friendly, though.
2. Morale among expats:
Variable. Quito itself has a number of both positive and negative aspects, so people can choose to emphasize one or the other. It's tougher for singles overall, due to the limited and snooty dating pool. The quality of management at work varies, which can affect people's outlook on life. The government is also becoming more hostile to Americans, making life more difficult by doing things like delaying shipments in customs, although it hasn't reached Cuban proportions yet.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
You're pretty much on your own here, as the expat community is not very tight. That said, there are house parties, barbecues, etc. on a fairly regular basis, so go out and make friends. Going out to restaurants/bars is easy, although it's necessary to keep in mind parking and security issues. Movie theaters are modern and show first-run films, often in both subtitled and dubbed versions. The arts scene is limited, don't expect lots of world-class plays and ballets.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Quito is primarily a family-oriented post, reflecting the city's culture. Couples can also do well, as there are plenty of in-country getaways and Quito offers a good (if not great) selection of cultural and gastronomic attractions. Singles have a more difficult time of it, since they are heavily outnumbered and the night life isn't the high point of the city.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Selected areas have gay-friendly establishments. Gays are tolerated, but Quito has a conservative culture, so strong biases exist.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Prejudices exist against those of African descent, typical for Latin America. Religions other than the majority Catholicism are welcomed, although not necessarily understood.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
A long list of in-country trips could be made. The Galapagos islands head the list, although due to the expense it's probably a one-time thing; also try to plan ahead at least several months if you can't be flexible on timing. The coast is a short flight away, with several good beaches. The Amazon is also highly recommended, with overnight stays in jungle lodges. Meanwhile, a number of nature-oriented day trips (hot springs, cloud forests, butterfly reservations) are available from Quito. Quito has several decent museums (the Guayasamin museum and Banco Central especially) and a rejuvenated Old Town with a number of churches and other historic locations.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Ironically enough a lot of so-called local crafts and things like alpaca sweaters are imported from Peru. However, there's some good local art on the market, including paintings and unique crafts like tagu ("vegetable ivory"). Art is not cheap, but you can usually negotiate the price down. On the other hand, flowers are dirt cheap and high-quality, buy them for your loved ones and home.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Once, yes. Twice, no. A standard State Department tour is three years here, which is a bit long.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter gear - almost never gets below 50F.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen - light-skinned people outside for more than 15 minutes on a sunny day will get burned, the sun really does pack more of a punch on the equator.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Ecuador isn't known for its fiction.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Ecuador isn't known for its fiction.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Proof of Life - filmed in Ecuador, so you can see what it's like.
7. Do you have any other comments?
Quito is a place where you have to work to get a lot out of it, but it can bring you rewards if you do. Unfortunately the trend line is down in several respects (crime, economy, political harassment), so the balance may change in the future.
