Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 05/11/10
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
5th expat experience with U.S. government
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Miami-Quito is about 5 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
This is a LQA post for U.S. Mission employees, so you bring all your own furniture and find your own housing. That presents its own challenges! Real estate agents operate differently than in the U.S., and it's expected that you view homes with 2 or more agents. Depending on the season you arrive, the housing pool may have some great selections. Or, like us, you may arrive at the end of the summer and need to look at 40+ homes before you find one close to the kids' school, with a patch of green space for the dog, and that doesn't have 1970s pink-and-olive fixtures in all the bathrooms! If you're associated with the U.S. Mission, you'll be accommodated in a hotel apartment for up to three months while finding permanent housing; this is very comfortable. Our kids loved the swimming pool and the chocolates on their pillows every night. The majority of families with children attending Cotopaxi Int'l School try to find housing in the gated community nearby which has single-family houses with yards and is probably the safest area; homes here may be new and modern or damp and outdated depending on what's available at the time. Many singles and couples (and some families) live in apartments around the city; there are many beautiful, modern apartments to choose from, and these tend to be safer, warmer and more likely to have generators than single-family homes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
My grocery bill has been about the same as in the U.S. Local items are less expensive and imported things more expensive, so it evens out. SuperMaxi is the major grocery chain and carries just about everything. They are increasingly carrying organics ranging from cereals and grains to fresh produce too. Fresh vegetables and fruits are abundant and delicious. It is difficult to find unscented soaps and laundry detergents, juices and baby foods that don't have added sugar, some ethnic and specialty foods (like colored sugar at Christmas). But the AERA commissary can special order items by the case or to stock on their shelves. I've noticed my grocery bill has increased about 30% in the past 6 months, so it remains to be seen whether prices will plateau or continue rising.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I mail order or purchase Stateside most clothing, shoes and cosmetics, as good quality items here are expensive. I would bring a good grill and patio furniture; most apartments and houses have balconies or patios, and the weather is delightful for sitting out.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many different kinds of restaurants at various price points. If you have to have it, McDonalds, Burger King, Papa Johns, Domino's, TGIFridays, and more fast food places are available.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
An occasional spider or silverfish, but generally no bugs. If you go into the valley (Quito suburbs) or further down in altitude, the mosquitoes can be ferocious.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has a DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Live-in or live-out housekeepers and nannies are available. Cost is about $220-$280/month for fulltime live-out housekeeper, but additional required social security and other taxes adds a lot on to the cost. Current labor law makes it difficult to employ a person part-time, but some people do share an employee. Most housekeepers are Spanish speaking, so it helps to know a little bit of the language.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms of various sizes and quality in different locations. The embassy also has a work-out area, tennis courts and soccer field.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I would NEVER use an ATM on the street here. We get cash and do whatever transactions we need to at the bank within the embassy compound. If banking locally is necessary, it's best to use one inside a mall or building. Usually you get a better deal on a purchase when paying in cash rather than by credit card, so it pays to ask. Mall stores, SuperMaxi and larger vendors accept U.S.-based credit cards. Market vendors, taxi drivers and other small merchants only accept cash and usually in denominations less than US$5 because they never seem to have enough change. USD is the official currency but there are Ecuadorian coins that can be used too.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
English Fellowship Church is a Protestant congregation with 2 weekly services, and men's women's, children's and teens groups. There are other English-language services but I'm not familiar with the details.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Cable TV is available with local channels, NBC, CBS, BBC, CNN, Home & Garden, NatGeo, History, and many more. Some sports events are blacked out on TVCable.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's extremely helpful to have some Spanish knowledge, at least the basics to get around, operate in the market, ask and give directions, etc. Of course, more Spanish will enhance your experience greatly. Individual tutors are available at affordable rates, and there are numerous Spanish-language schools including an excellent program at the Catholic university.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Some don't adjust well to the altitude and live with low-level fatigue or shortness of breath, but most people can adjust after a couple of days. The city has many steep streets, so walking could be a challenge. There's a habit of planting trees in the middle of the sidewalks, making passage by a wheelchair impossible. Some apartment buildings only have stairs, and no elevators. I don't think it's impossible for someone with physical challenges, just more difficult or limiting than in the U.S. or Europe.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are generally safe in the city; we just make sure the taxi has a legitimate sticker and meter before getting in. For added security at night or when going to the airport, cab companies are available for call. Taxis are very affordable, and thus can offset the need for a second car.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We've appreciated having a small, high-clearance 4WD as there are pot holes on city streets and highways outside the city. This vehicle also has allowed us to explore further afield off the main highways. It may be worth it to ask the regional security officer which vehicles are less likely to be stolen, as there are theft rings that look for specific types/brands.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is available at speeds slower than in the U.S. and is not as reliable. Even with a UPS to keep our Vonage lines and home office equipment going, the internet sometimes cuts out for an hour with an electrical outage. But in general, we have good service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy's AERA association has a monthly cell plan; you pay for only the airtime you use. I recommend an unlocked GSM phone that allows you to switch SIM cards between Ecuador and the U.S.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are several well-qualified, English-speaking vets. Care, including surgery, is much less expensive than in the U.S. Our vet boards dogs and we've been very happy with the service.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most local jobs have a lower pay scale, and Spanish fluency may be a prerequisite. There is a SNAP coordinator in Mexico City who comes to Quito 1-2 times a year to work with U.S. Mission spouses and assist in employment-related issues. Telecommuting is an option.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire is similar to Stateside. Layering works well in this climate. If you wear shorts or sport sandals in public (male or female), you'll stand out and be branded an "extranjero" or tourist. If you like cleavage and stiletto heels, you'll fit right in.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Security is the biggest issue for this post; crime has increased dramatically in the past two years. The post is rated CRITICAL. Armed robberies of individuals on the street are common even in the best neighborhoods, and armed gangs will disable guards and break into homes or apartment buildings. We are always watching our backs and having to adjust our lifestyles accordingly -- for example, having to make trips home in between errands because we can't leave anything in the car in a parking lot or street, not driving alone as a single woman in the evenings, dividing cash between pockets and not carrying a purse, etc. The Mariscal (tourist area) is especially dangerous with robberies, scopolamine drugging, and sexual assaults occurring there.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are a several good hospitals and many excellent doctors here. But definitely ask the Embassy Health Unit who they recommend for doctors, dentists, etc. as they have vetted many and will know the best. Costs for office visits, labs, and surgery are much lower than in the U.S. It's still best to return to the U.S. for treatment of more complex health issues. There are many pharmacies; you can get narcotics over the counter, but have to have a prescription for cold remedies. There are some natural-health stores, but they often sell unfamiliar brands of vitamins and herbs, so its probably best to bring/order these items from the U.S.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Quito is in a mountain basin and, without strict regulatory controls, the air in the city is polluted. It is worst in the base of the "bowl" and gets better as you ascend. People with respiratory allergies or dedicated runners will be happier living up further on the side of the mountain.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather has been unpredictable the past few years, with some extremely rainy/cold periods, and more recently a drought during the usually wet season. But in general there are two seasons: October to May is rainy and colder (50-60F during the day), though most days it rains some and then clears. May to October is warm and sunny (70-85F daytime), and very windy in July-August. Humidity is perfect. There is a typical mountain effect where you get hot in the sun and chilly in the shade. This is definitely the "city of eternal spring" and the most beautiful climate we have ever lived in.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most U.S. Mission children attend Cotopaxi International School or the Alliance Academy, though there are French, British and other schools available. We have had a great experience at the Alliance Academy -- experienced, dedicated teachers and accessible, proactive administration.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Both Cotopaxi and Alliance Academy have special-needs departments. I have heard some negative reports about Cotopaxi's handling of special needs, and there is a history of bullying that has been poorly addressed. Alliance Academy has an excellent record with children with learning disabilities and mental and physical handicaps, and works closely with the parents to optimize these kids' educational experiences. I don't think either school has prioritized the education of highly gifted children. If you need English-language PT, OT or speech services, you'll be hard pressed to find it at this post.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is a Little League association, and the schools have intra-mural, junior varsity and varsity sports. Soccer is a huge sport, so it's possible to join local leagues.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
2. Morale among expats:
I think it is excellent for those who are willing to venture out of their comfort zones. This is a developing-world country with its attendant challenges. But my experience has been that there are many groups to join and activities to pursue that make this post a comfortable place to be.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Opportunities abound to entertain in-house or go out to restaurants, picnic and hike at Parque Metropolitano (shelter houses are for rent), or attend concerts or cultural events.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For families, yes. Ecuadorians are very family oriented. There are lots of birthday parties, family dinners, etc. In addition, there is an ice rink, bowling alley, swimming pools (with lessons), parks with playgrounds, sports leagues. Traffic, especially at rush hour, can make getting to and from these places a hassle so it definitely makes sense to live on the side of Quito where the majority of your activities are.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Otavalo market, Galapagos Islands cruise, jungle river rafting (the most dense area of rivers for rafting at all levels in the world), butterfly gardens, caving, Papallacta geothermal springs, zip lining, hiking and mountain climbing, the historic Old City, TeleferiQo cable cars up Volcan Pichincha for city views, easy travel to Peru for Machu Picchu & Cuzco touring.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Leather goods, weaving, Ecuadorian chocolate, wood carving, paintings. Many have wood furniture made, old furniture re-upholstered, and suits custom-tailored at reasonable prices.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
For a small country, Ecuador has such diversity in ethnic groups (Amazonian, coastal and mountain groups), micro-climates (paramo, jungle, etc.) and geography (mountains, ocean)which provides a large variety of experiences within easy driving distance of the city.
11. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It's been a great place for us.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
$50 and $100 bills; rampant counterfeiting means vendors won't take anything over a $20 bill.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, sunhats, sunglasses -- the UV Index here regularly hovers between 16-24 (11+ is dangerous). Just a bit of time unprotected can lead to blistering sunburns.
