Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 01/25/11
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have previously lived in Tokyo, Japan; Quebec, Canada; Darmstadt, Germany; and Luanda, Angola.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is Detroit, which is an easy trip from Port-au-Prince tthrough Miami (about 1.5 hours) with a connection to Detroit.
3. How long have you lived here?
7 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government (U.S. State Department)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing varies but is, generally, of decent quality. Homes are almost all made from concrete and cinder blocks. Windows and doors are frequently leaky and allow air and bugs to circulate freely.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is very good availability of household supplies. Most of the big U.S. brands are available at the larger supermarkets. Groceries are a little more unpredictable, and the quality/availability changes from day to day. It pays to go to the grocery store frequently and, when you see something you want, buy it!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few good restaurants in Petionville which range from expensive to very expensive. Dinner for two at La Souvenance will run you over $200. Quartier Latin is a little more than half that. There is a Domino's Pizza in Petionville but no "real" fast food such as McDonald's or Burger King.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Strangely, certain stores seem to specialize in organic, gluten-free, etc. Maison Handal, next to the U.S. Embassy, imports a lot of these products, as does Giant. Unfortunately, the price is prohibitive. Girls in the street sell very nice produce at more reasonable rates.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are everywhere and carry malaria and dengue fever. Keeping your home cold and not leaving windows and doors open helps to alleviate the problem a little. Traditional mosquito repellants seem to have no effect. Homes tend to attract giant cockroaches (or, "waterbugs") which are an upleasant surprise when you step into the shower in the morning or open a kitchen cabinet.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch are available. Mail can also be hand-carried to Miami and sent from there.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Rampant unemployment makes for a large available workforce. Costs are about $100 per month for a maid who comes 2-3 times per week. Extensive training will be absolutely required since most Haitians looking for work as cleaners do not have a solid understanding of the American definition of "clean."Gardenders come at a slightly higher rate than maids. The best solution for someone looking for domestic staff would be one person who does it all at about $150-$200 per month depending on experience, ability, etc.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted at the large grocery stores and the better restaurants, as well as at some other specialty stores. ATMs are hard to find and not trustworthy. There is an ATM inside the U.S. Embassy which works sporadically.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are numerous U.S.-based missionaries in and around Port-au-Prince who conduct services in English. The difficult part would be making contact with them, but some internet research should yield fairly complete results.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Satellite TV is available, but the initial setup can be costly (about $3,000). English-language newspapers are not available.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is important to note that, in spite of what everyone says, Haiti is NOT a French-speaking country. The language of Haiti is Haitian Creole, which is very different from French. As a native French speaker, I can say that it is difficult enough to get by with fluent French. Creole is a must. English is widely understood but less widely spoken.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is a very difficult city for someone with disabilities to navigate. This is a very difficult city for even a fully-abled person to navigate! There are no accommodations made for differently-abled persons, and the lack of any kind of infrastructure -- along with mountains of rubble and trash, occasional flooding, pollution, the heat and the crowding -- can make Port-au-Prince very difficult for anyone to manage.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The tap-taps are omnipresent but are not safe. Muggings are very frequent inside the tap-taps and it is, therefore, not advisable to use them. No other public transportation is available.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Roads in Port-au-Prince are almost non-existent. The major routes in the city are paved but are riddled with potholes. Anything off the main roads is going to be gravel or dirt and almost impassable in the rainy season. Bring a 4x4 vehicle with a high clearance. In the provinces, roads are nothing more than a good idea and you will need a true off-road SUV with a winch, a snorkel, etc.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Define "high speed". Internet is available and is fairly reliable. Voila seems to have a much better reputation than Access Haiti. Speeds are not too bad and the cost is about $100 per month. Service has generally been reliable with only a few problems during storms, civil unrest, etc.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are relatively cheap, and coverage within Port-au-Prince is good -- thanks to the city being surrounded by high mountains with atennae on them.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is one good veterinarian available in Petionville.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are no job opportunities on the local economy. Unemployment in Haiti is the norm, and a "good" job by Haitian standards is one which pays $10 per day.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business dress during the week; much more casual on the weekends. That is just a suggestion, though, since there are so many different types of people here doing so many different types of work, you will see everything.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is fairly rampant owing to the abject poverty in which much of the country lives. Kidnappings have increased significantly, with several resulting in murders. A curfew is observed by U.S. Embassy employees. This is definitely not a place where you want to be out until all hours of the morning.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
As most Haitians will tell you: Haiti is an African country. That means that all of the typical tropical illnesses are here in a big way: cholera, typhoid, dengue fever, malaria, etc. Get your vaccinations before you come! Medical care is not too bad, given the large presence of foreign volunteer doctors. However, for anything more than a simple infection or flu, medevac will be the only option.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality in most of Port-au-Prince is unhealthy. There is a tremendous amount of dust in the air. That, coupled with the almost-constant smoke of burning trash, makes breathing in Port-au-Prince a very unpleasant experience.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is typically tropical: hot days, cool nights, a rainy season and a dry season.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. The diplomatic community is fairly large, and the U.N. presence is huge. However, the U.N. people mostly keep to themselves and do not interact much with others. NGOs and missionaries are also everwhere.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies widely depending on the person and the situation. Some people have a great time in Haiti, others find it difficult. Most people have very different opinions from one day to the next as the result of the constantly-changing environment (safety, security, political situation, etc.). Life can be great one day and everything can go south the next.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly conducted at home or in the upscale restaurants of Petionville.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a good city for singles and couples. A single person will have a lot of flexibility and be able to take advantage of the different social options available. A couple will have each other to rely on and help each other out which can be hugely important here. This is not a good or safe place for children.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
This is not really a good city for gay/lesbian expats. There is something of a community, but it is not organized at all. The internet helps to establish contact with other gay/lesbian expats but most foreigners do not stay in Haiti for extended periods of time, so it is hard to build any kind of meaningful or lasting community. Homosexuality within the Haitian community is very taboo, and it is almost impossible to make contact with gay/lesbian locals. Furthermore, most Haitian men who demonstrate an interest in foreign men are really only looking for money.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Haiti still has a high degree of segregation based on skin color. The higher up the social ladder you go, the lighter the skin of those around you becomes. Many times this is stated explicitly but, more often, there is just an atmosphere of "your kind is not welcome here" if you are dark-skinned. There is such a diversity of religious groups in Haiti that I can't imagine any religious discrimination taking place (nor have I heard of any). Women are well-respected in Haiti and do not experience any great discrimination. There are many women in the police and other occupations traditionally considered "masculine." Haiti may even get a woman president soon!
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The beaches are not bad;. There are some nightclubs and a few good restaurants.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Everyone who has posted on Port-au-Prince so far has said you can spend it on the completely and totally unique Haitian art. Although you can buy art here, be aware that it is in no way unique! You will find the exact same paintings anywhere in Africa. Be aware that those beautiful "Haitian" paintings are most likely mass produced in Taiwan and sold to gullible tourists all over the world. If you are going to buy art, be sure you work with an artist and not some guy in the street!
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The close proximity to Miami is a big advantage. When life in Haiti starts to overwhelm you, you can always get away for a long weekend for around $300-$400.
11. Can you save money?
It is possible but not easy. If you are eating American-style and trying to live a Western life, it will cost you. If you make a few cuts and go local for your food and household products, you can save some money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"The Comedians" by Graham Greene is the classic work on Haiti under Duvalier and a good read. Most of the recent non-fiction on Haiti tells the same old story. If you've read one, you've read them all.
