Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 06/01/19
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I had lived in a few places in the Middle East and Kabul before coming to Haiti. This was my first post in the Western Hemisphere.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, USA. One typically flies to Miami or Fort Lauderdale, then to Haiti from there. It is a two-hour flight from Florida to Haiti.
3. How long have you lived here?
I lived there for two years, ending in 2017.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing tends to be spacious. A new and large compound opened after I left, so there are likely fewer embassy houses located around town by 2019. From the compounds, the commute would be very short. My commute was typically 15 minutes from Vivy Mitchell but those who live near Petionville or near Avenue Panamericaine would have longer commutes. Roads are not good and drive times can vary greatly.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
At least as of 2017, a good variety of groceries was available at upscale grocery shops in Petionville and Tabarre. Items might be expensive but were at least available. At the embassy, services like amazon or netgrocer could help supplement your supplies of dry goods. Haitian coffee is quite good and a wide variety of tropical fruit jams and jellies are available locally.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Ship paper products (toilet paper, paper towels, napkins, etc.) as these can be expensive locally. I also recommend shipping liquid goods with brands that you really like, e.g. shampoos, cooking sauces, etc. Otherwise, there is not a lot in this category.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Delivery was not widely available. There are at least a dozen or so good restaurants in town. My favorite was Le 3 Decks in the hills of Kenscoff. The upscale hotels typically had good restaurants as well.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We had ants in our house periodically, but they rarely posed a problem to us. Geckos got in the house occasionally but tended to be harmless. Hornets often made nests outside the house but they tended not to bother us. We saw a couple dead tarantulas in the driveway now and then but they were never a menace. We often had cockroaches that were the size of matchbox cars or larger.
Perhaps the main problem here was termites, which were eating at some of the wood in the house and ate many of our long-kept packing boxes. Think hard about wooden items that you ship to Haiti, and think harder about the wood items that you ship back. Some expats said that if a wood item was too big to put in the freezer upon your return home, you should leave it on the island.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I used Embassy DPO for mail and packages. Service improved on this during my time here and got to where I could get packages from amazon in a week. I never used the local postal service.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Haitians typically fill these roles. Ask around at your employer for recommendations on this front, as it tends not to be too hard to find. Some people expressed concerns about the quality of help but we had good luck there.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy had a decent gym. I believe the Hotel Karibe had a health club that some people liked, though I could not comment on its fees.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Some in the embassy used credit cards on the economy but I would not advise doing so. I heard enough stories of credit card numbers getting stolen to put me off using them, except at the major hotels. ATMs are common but you should choose these wisely, as people are often robbed after withdrawing cash.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
This will depend on your social circles, as many upper-crust Haitians will speak at least some English. That said, speaking French will go a long way. If you already speak French, use that and do not invest time in learning Kreyol.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I would imagine so, as infrastructure is spotty at best.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are reportedly quite affordable but safety is a much bigger question.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Some kind of 4WD is a must. The roads in Port-Au-Prince are some of the worst I have seen, and that includes Afghanistan. And when it rains, there is little drainage control so you will find yourself driving at times through instant rivers. High clearance is therefore highly desirable.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There are a few internet providers. Access Haiti was OK for my needs at home. NuTV was a decent TV provider.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I could not speak to roaming costs for foreign phones but would recommend a local provider.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The only out-of-embassy employment I knew of might have been with NGOs, PVOs, or the UN. There is not a big private-sector job market for expats.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many, but again, I recommend being highly selective, especially if you want to see lasting results.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
I wore a suit and tie but that level of attire is not too common except in the most formal settings. Even in nice restaurants, I typically removed the tie.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is very high. Political unrest can occur at any time. And the situation on any given day can be subject to quick and radical change.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Tap water is not potable. Dengue fever exists, as does chikungunya ('dengue lite'). I never used local medical care, except one dentist for teeth cleanings. Most any medical issue beyond a fleeting illness might merit a medevac. Smell any meat at the grocery store before you take it home and freeze it unless you plan to use it within a day. Wash vegetables and fruits to be on the safe side.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I never heard of anyone having a problem with air quality here.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Environmental allergies may not be a big issue here, but I could not offer meaningful commentary on this. For those with food allergies, if you can order groceries via amazon, you may have few issues.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is hot and sticky for about six months, and fairly pleasant the other six months. In the hills outside the city, the air is cleaner and cooler. Hurricanes can be a danger. There is no clear dry season, and it can rain at most any time.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There was at least one school (The Union School) that embassy kids went to, but I heard mixed reviews about it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Day would almost certainly be a nanny that you hire individually. I believe there was one preschool.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The diplomatic community is fairly small, though there are many NGOs and PVOs in the capital. The UN had a large presence when I was there but that is smaller now. Morale tended to be reasonably good, since most should know what they are getting into before arriving.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The Petionville Club was one such option, with its periodic Friday night wine happy hours. Otherwise, you might have to do some digging to find such opportunities. Because crime and security are always concerns, most people and outfits tend to circle the wagons and interact less than they might in other posts. It would surprise me if, for instance, there was a Hash House Harriers club in Port-Au-Prince.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I am not sure it is any less challenging for any of these categories. Any of the above will have to work to find their fun and things they enjoy, and will face challenges in enjoying them.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Haitian society does not seem very tolerant of LGBT.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I found the Haitians I worked with on an official level to be quite nice but had few local friends. Again, the tendency to circle the wagons prevents these sorts of interactions to a degree.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
3% of the population in Haiti is Arab, but they have been there for generations. There were no real racial problems within the local population.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I mentioned my favorite restaurants and hotels. The poor quality of the roads discourages road trips outside the capital, especially when you can fly to Miami or Guadeloupe in two hours. My best memories from Haiti are from my work experiences.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
See my earlier answers -- Le 3 Decks, Hotel Karibe, El Rancho Hotel, The Lodge up high in the mountains.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Metalwork is the main local craft. Paintings were also quite popular with some.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Proximity to the USA, if you have family there.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The extent to which finding amusements and fun could be a challenge.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
If I could have the same quality of work experiences, yes. Otherwise, probably not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Impatience, since you will need a lot of patience, and expectations to improve the area around you.
4. But don't forget your:
Healthy skepticism and attention to your own security.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Michael Deibert has written at least one good book on Haiti, if not two by now. Ralph Pezzullo's book is also good. Laurent Dubois also wrote a couple good books on Haiti. Paul Farmer's books are popular with many, but his views on Aristide should be taken with several grains of salt.
6. Do you have any other comments?
I do not miss living in Haiti but, two years later, I do still miss working there. Depending on your line of work, you will likely find the work to be either extremely frustrating or extremely rewarding. Find your niche, build a good team, and those things will get you through.
