New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 06/02/16
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is the latest of many expat tours overseas in Asia and South America for more than 20 years.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
There are non-stop flights from Delhi to NYC (JFK & EWR), Chicago, and San Francisco. Dozens more connect through Europe. The current city-pair fair for Delhi to DC is an American Airways codeshare with British Airways, with mixed reviews. Some flights arrive or leave at ungodly hours, but there are a few more better options with the advent of the 777 and 787 flying longer routes with smaller passenger loads.
3. How long have you lived here?
4 years in New Delhi.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Serving in a diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is expensive in New Delhi for anything approximating the safety and neighborhood you may be used to in the North America. The U.S. Embassy has comfortable flats not too far from the diplomatic community or the American Center. Compound housing is great, but it is a very small percentage of the housing pool. So, while many families request to live there, in reality very few do. And many of the compound houses are too small for a family larger than 2.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are available. Previous reports have covered a lot of good shopping points, so I won't repeat them.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Bring liquid-type things in your shipment because you can't easily get the same quality in New Delhi, and liquids are not permitted in the pouch. Amazon Prime is an excellent way to buy things online. There is an Amazon in India that opened 2 years ago, but their options are much more limited. Big-box stores and multi-brand retail stores are almost non-existent in India, due to bureaucracy and local content/supplier rules. Smaller, less-developed countries in the region have better big stores than what you will find in India.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of vegetarian options. Many familiar western fast-food chains, and now a Taco Bell. Seasonings are different from what you expect in North America. almost anything can be ordered for delivery or takeout. Certain meat products are hard to obtain unless you have commissary privileges.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
You will find plenty of mosquitoes, insects, cockroaches, and hornets. Most can be avoided by taking normal precautions.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Use the diplomatic pouch for everything. There is no APO/DPO in India.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is plentiful, but the quality may vary, so give them a trial period before signing a contract. Those of us who have servants' quarters on their property can have a better choice of who they hire. Drivers and gardeners are also very helpful. Gardeners work a couple of hours a day and are very inexpensive. Having a driver is totally worth it if you buy or bring a car.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are commercial gyms, and the American Club gym (which has filtered air). The quality is good. For American Club (ACSA) members, the pool is also great.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Some stores and restaurants accept them; smaller ones do not. Shops will often add a 3% fee if you use your credit card. ATM machines are common and often give very good exchange rates when you withdraw rupees. However, the Embassy has only Axis Bank ATM machines, and they charge a withdrawal fee. Instead, find another bank's ATM that does not charge the fee. We use cash for almost all purchases.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Religious services are available in English for many denominations, including LDS, Catholic, Seventh-Day Adventist, and non-demoninational near the Embassy. There are also many others.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can do fine with just English, but speaking some Hindi or a local variant will open doors to amazing encounters that English-only speakers will miss. Many language classes are available, but check their references.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Someone with physicial difficulties would have a difficult time in India.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Avoid buses. Trains are fun -- take first-class for overnight trips, or Executive-car class on the shorter Shatabdi "high speed" regional trains. Set up a Cleartrip or Make-my-trip app on your phone, and then you can book train tickets from home. I found this to be very convenient. Bring your own toilet paper on the trains, though --- also your sense of adventure --- and enjoy seeing the beautiful country side roll by.
Normal taxis and rickshaws will try to rip you off unless you negotiate the price before you get in. Otherwise, take an App-based cab like OLA Cabs in Delhi and all around India. They are cheaper than a regular taxi, and they run the air conditioning for no extra charge.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Buy a car locally. Toyota Innova vans are popular with families. Get a newer model, because there are stringent air-quality rules on older cars.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Good high-speed internet is available. some people set up a special VPN router to stream movies from North America. Installation takes a day or two.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Definitely get a local pre-paid cell phone plan. We used Airtel with no problems for a personal phones. Data plans are cheap by western standards. It takes a couple of days to set up an account (due to security issues), and you have to verify your identity.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. Work with the Embassy before your arrival for all the requirements. The Indian government requires lots of paperwork ahead of time. Taking pets as excess baggage (or in-cabin) saves a lot of hassle. Flying on Lufthansa to/from India is also much more pleasant than dealing with United or BA.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Finding jobs that are professionally and financially rewarding for spouses is problematic. The Indian government is slow and bureaucratic when asked to approve spouses for work outside the embassy. Be aware that local salary scales are much lower than in more-developed countries.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Everything under the sun is available.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Modest is best. Woman cover shoulders and knees, and men wear long pants. Adults are advised not to wear shorts when off the compound.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Observe all of the usual security concerns for living in a big city. Protect your cash and wallet when going out, and never carry more than you will need.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is spotty.. Most embassies medevac their employees for critical care, usually to Singapore. Air pollution is the number-one health concern. Children often develop chronic breathing problems or get asthma in India. Respiratory infections are common. Also common are dysentery and GI-tract problems, Giardia, Salmonella, and E-coliform poisoning. Malaria and dengue fever are common for more than half the year. Everyone is recommended to wear mosquito repellent from June to January.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The World Health Organization has listed New Delhi as having the worst air quality in the world. It is even bad in the best of times, and it becomes dangerous/hazardous from October to February. Check the Embassy's air quality monitorfor the latest readings.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Many people need to get out of Delhi periodically. A nice week in the Himalayas (Shimla, Mussoorie, etc) are nice get-aways. Mussoorie is very accessible to Delhi: half a day by train or plane.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Temperatures from May - September are above 100F every day. It is very hot, humid, and wet from June to September. From November to February, the highs are in the 80's, and the lows are in the '40s (Fahrenheit). Along with the cooler weather in the winter comes the intoxicating air pollution.
Schools & Children:
1. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools, and many people hire nannies for at-home kids. The American Embassy has an "Apple Kids" program for pre-school ages.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big. Moral is okay, but air pollution is the main drag for most people. It really depends on your expectations and attitudes. If you focus on the bureaucracy, filth, pollution, and constant sickness, it could get you down. Focus on the good things, like the amazing travel opportunities in India, wonderful food, affordable domestic help, and colorful culture, and it is much better. Many people recommend getting out of Delhi once a quarter for a break and leaving the country one or two times each year for a mind reset.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There is something good for everyone. Indians love children and will dote on them.
3. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Our highlights have been traveling to so many wonderful parts of India. There are plenty of resources to give you some ideas of what to see and do.
4. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are lots of shopping opportunities in Delhi and around the country.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known how terrible the air pollution is, and how the government bureaucracy and mindset affect almost every aspect of your job and personal life.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Perhaps not. I would bid on a post that is cleaner and healthier for my family.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and adventure --- and any pre-conceived ideas you had about India, even if you have visited as a tourist in the past.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Sam Miller's book "Delhi - Adventures in a Mega City", and "Freedom at Midnight". Other recommendations below are also good.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Carry out your "due diligence" before coming to New Delhi. And don't expect to to get assigned to the compound.
