Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 09/23/10
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Many expat experiences.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast. It's a long journey. Plan on 16 or so hours to get to Amman or Kuwait, a down day there, and then a long day into Baghdad, If you aren't 'connected' to get on a helo, you'll spend the day at Sully Compound waiting on the Rhino.
3. How long have you lived here?
6 weeks.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government, US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
SDAs, East End, Man Camp. You will be sharing space unless you are very, very senior. It sucks. The SDAs are divided into 2 rooms. One of them, the original bedroom, has built in closets but it is significantly smaller than the other room. The 'other' room was meant as a living room. It's quite a bit larger and has two windows instead of one. It will have a standing bureau instead of a built in closet. The "living room" is a tiny windowless area that I find incredibly depressing. The kitchen is ridiculously overdone and ultimately useless for anything other than storing water and booze or making coffee. I am not a contractor but I do security. Man Camp is closing and until new housing is built, many of the WPPS personnel will be doubled up in CHUs. Some of them are wet, some dry. I know they're doing it by seniority. it's been a serious morale killer. This is supposed to be a temporary thing and decent housing will be in place by spring of 2011.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The prices at the PX are about what you would pay in the US. Many people opt to do their own laundry and buy detergent there. You can buy booze, dvds, cleaning supplies, etc at the PX.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not much! TImes have changedd since I was here in 04. Don't bother to bring a laundry basket, a full length mirror, plastic bins to store stuff, hooks or hangers or other Target type items. They have all that stuff here now. Bring liquids, though, since it's troublesome to get stuff through the pouch.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There's a Subway, Pizza Hut and Green Bean Coffee shop at the REC center. There is also a Popeye's and another pizza place across the street at FOB Union III. There are Grab-n-Goes at many of the buildings that have sandwiches and soda, chips and snacks that are all free.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Ha. Well, there is a "healthy selection" bar at the DFAC but it's usually greasy too.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Well, I've had irritating flies in the DFAC buzz me.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO. It's surprisingly fast. I do Netflix here and am impressed with the speed.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
None available. There is a laundry service that is free, including dry cleaning. I have asked around and I still can't find anyone who wants to clean my SDA forextra $.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
If you're motivated, you can spend a whole lot of time working out. PS - the new gym by the DFAC, is called Gold's, since it has lots of free weights. The older gym in the REC Center is called Curves because it has a lot of cardio machines. There's plenty of room for all.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can do debit cards at the PX and get 20 bucks for each purchase. I hear you can cash checks somewhere. You don't need cash much here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. I don't go but I've seen the schedule. There are groups for everyone - protestant, catholic, lutheran, other, jewish, muslim, etc
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
You will have AFN in the SDAs, East End and Man Camp.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Most of the local BESF guards are from Peru, so if you want to practice your Spanish, you will have plenty of people to talk to.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
You can't come here if you have physical disabilities. That being said, I have seen a lot of people of extreme size. I would think they'd have some issues finding PPE that fits or being fit enough to run for the bunkers when the Duck & Cover goes off.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Ha!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Everything is already here and armoured.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Same - you have it in all the spots. It's very slow during peak times. I have had a hard time streaming Netflix but it can be done- you will have a US IPS address so no need for a proxy. Bring a wireless router. The ethernet cable is provided in the SDAs.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Iraqi cell phones suck. You'll be issued one but the service is poor. You will have a phone in your SDA with IVG. I don't know about Man Camp or East End.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
The EOD dogs will make you homesick if you are a dog lover. The stray, homeless dogs in the IZ will make your heart ache.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Some people dress like it's a real embassy - ties, suit coats, dresses, high heels. One caveat: ladies, (and I am one) DON'T wear high heels. Do not wear shoes you can't run in. And you will need to run when the Duck and Cover goes off.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
IDF is a great big deal. I cannot stress this enough (and I am a security person). You should take the IDF threat seriously. We have Duck and Cover alarms sound every day. We have had major rocket hits, with significant damage, happen on a weekly basis.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Not really.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dusty. If you have even the most remotely sensitive eyes, you'll find yourself buying drops at the PX.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot in the summer. Hot and dusty. Very arid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
No kids. There are groups who play volleyball, soccer and tennis. Bring your racket.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. There are a ton of people here.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good for the most part. Everyone works a lot (I do 7 days a week, 16 hour days). Most people seem very type A and motivated. I am not a contractor though, I work at the chancery and can't speak about morale among PAE or WPPS personnel.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Drinking. Sometimes you go to parties at someone's SDA, but they're so small it's kind of freakish. People have barbeques outside of the REC center
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's not the wild west it once was (sigh!). Man Camp is filled with guys, but since they can't drink anymore they keep to themselves. Baghdaddies, the only bar in town, does a brisk business on Thursday and Friday nights. There are a fair amount of geographic singles here. It can get kind of skeevy at times with trashy guys and girls grinding away on the dance floor.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
GLIFFA has an active group here. I have seen very openly gay PDA at Baghdaddies and at parties, and no one seems fazed by it.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Well, hmm. Depends on where you work. Some are loving and accepting of Iraqis, some aren't.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Money. I've done some good stuff for my EER. I was in Baghdad during the war, and this is a completely different environment (it was better then, if you can believe that).
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Work out. There are 2 gyms here. The pool is VERY nice is you're into swimming. Again, Baghdaddies is the bar. They have yoga and other workout classes. There are movie nights and dance nights, like salsa and ballroom, but I hear only girls show up for them.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are shops across the street at FOB Union III. It's mostly junk.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The money is good.
11. Can you save money?
Oh yeah. I have my BMW already picked out.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I knew what I was getting into. I didn't know the IDF thing was so extreme, though. You can get killed here. Don't think it's safe. IT IS NOT!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Nice clothes, high heels, and idea that you will have a lot of free time to learn the violin or write the great american novel.
3. But don't forget your:
DVDs, a few party clothes, tennis racket, swim goggles and cap. Corkscrew.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Training Day (this movie just rocks!)
