Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 11/09/11
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Pristina.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Chicago. There are direct flights to Amman from Chicago and NYC.About 12 hours. There is also a direct flight from DC to Kuwait. There are now embassy air flights going to Amman and Kuwait...no more C130s.
3. How long have you lived here?
6 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am an FTE State Department employee who is PCS to Iraq.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Same as other posters described...shared apartments for FTEs. Contractors are a little worse off, but they do have their own room.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
AAFES. Currently, food is free in the DFAC, and nobody has said anything about that changing after the military leaves.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I was given a bicycle and have found it to be very useful. The DFAC and the chancery are on opposite ends of the compound, so it has been very helpful. I had no idea that you could ship one in your UAB...who new?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
This is in limbo. At the embassy there is a Coffee Bean that looks to be staying. Pizza Hut and Subway may be leaving. There is another pizza place, North End pizza, that is good and might be staying. Did I say that things are changing around here?
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I would say none.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Flies and more flies. They can be very annoying.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Here is another recent change. The embassy has switched to DPO from APO.This will affect contractors the most, as they are now restricted to two pounds in or out. You have to use click-and-ship to pay for postage. No more free letter mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
None.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Oh yeah...no problem here.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
They have them and they are fine. Provided by Baghdad bank on the compound.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Stars and Stripes and the Internet.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not if you want to stick around.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
MRAP if you have one handy....that's a joke you will understand once you arrive.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Here is another upcoming change. It is currently provided for free. It is quite slow during peak hours and not that much better at non-peak. Soon we will be charged for Internet, and the rumor is that it will be $150 per month. But, the upside will hopefully be a lot faster speeds...this has been rumored to start in February of 2012.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You have the choice of an embassy phone or....an embassy phone. You can use an unlocked phone and just take the embassy SIM out and place it in your phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I hear the Taliban is hiring....
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
As stated before...it is looking more like a real embassy. It probably will continue down this path, given that the embassy will be the only show in town shortly.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Hmmmm...yeah. The main concern at the moment is the military leaving. As previous posters have stated, there is indirect fire quite frequently directed at the green zone and embassy compound in particular. Having the military around has provided a buffer and obvious security blanket for the embassy community. Come January 1st 2012, it all falls under the Chief of Mission. It remains to be seen what this will mean....I am hoping it will be just fine, as I am here for a while.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The Health Unit is nice. There is a hospital that the embassy is taking over (near the airport) for more serious issues.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dust storms are the worst aspect of living here. They don't happen too often, but it is no fun.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very dry, as it is a desert. Hot and dry in summer, and dry and cold (but not too cold) in winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Nope.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are other embassies in the IZ that have parties...Italians, English, Aussies and a few others. I haven't attended, but I hear that the parties are fun.
2. Morale among expats:
Hard to say...most are a bit stir crazy. It is kind of like a minimum-security prison. (Not that I have ever been to minimum-security prison, I am just projecting.)
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Baghdaddies or parties at other embassies...Or, if you are higher on the food chain, representative events, from what I hear.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Sure...
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yeah.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I have enjoyed the job since you get to do things here that you would never get the chance at another embassy. Things change by the day, and something you worked hard on might go away, but if you enjoy a challenging environment, this is it.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Things are changing with the military leaving and bases closing. There currently is a small bazaar accross the street where you can buy some local stuff, but the rumor is that it is going away. Much of the military-provided MWR extras are being scaled back.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
If they don't take the bazaar away, rugs and fake watches and other curios.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Well, there is saving money and.....Weather is REALLY hot in the summer and it gets chilly but nice in winter.
11. Can you save money?
If you can't save money here, you may be the worst financial manager in history.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
If I have a desire for money and promotion once again. It is probably not as bad as I thought it would be...but, the indirect fire is a bit unnerving. And it might not stay so indirect, as they have hit a few things more than once.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Love of freedom and liberty.
3. But don't forget your:
Suntan lotion and lip balm.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Not sure...The training they give you in the area studies is pretty interesting and enough of a primer. However, unless you are in POL or other sections that interact with locals, you may never meet an Iraqi.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
None that I know of that give a true-to-life portrayal.
6. Do you have any other comments?
I wanted to try and give a slight update on the things that are changing around here. The buzzword of the year is "transition". If you like working in a large embassy with a lot of unique things going on and are a bit of a fatalist as to what will happen, will happen, then this is the place for you.
