Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 01/04/16
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast USA. We had the option of flying out of Baghdad International Airport (BIAP) commercially, then transiting through either Istanbul or Dubai. From there it was usually two-more legs to get back to the Land of the Big PX. Alternately, DOS employees and some contractors have the option to fly Embassy Air, a thrice-weekly charter plane to Amman. From Amman there were usually more flight options, although the return flight almost always necessitated an overnight stay at the Amman Airport Hotel (part Days Inn and part house of ill repute). Traveling from BDSC to the Embassy requires a 10-minute helicopter flight.
3. How long have you lived here?
Twelve-month tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government. U.S. Embassy employee assigned to the Baghdad Diplomatic Support Center (BDSC).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Containerized Housing Units (CHUs) only. While this makes the commute great, be sure to guard against being available for work 24/7.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The Diplomart was pretty well stocked with everything that you actually need, but the best bet was to rely on the DPO. Most DOS contractors were unable to use the mail, though, so they'd load up while on leave.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Bring as many of your favorite comfort foods as you can smuggle into this hellhole. A single bag of Tostitos can make the difference between curtailment and sticking it out until your next R&R.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There was one pizza restaurant when I left, and a small coffee shop. Both were unremarkable and subject to closure on short notice.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
BDSC does have a very large gym, althuogh PAE is known for closing it at random hours for irregular cleanings. Good luck trying to find open stations during peak hours, though.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Bank of Baghdad ran an ATM on the compound, and I think the withdrawal limit was a few hundred dollars a day. The Diplomart accepted both credit and ATM cards.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, and don't embarrass yourself by trying to work Arabic phrases into your daily routine. Many of BDSC's third-country national contractors are actually trafficked Indians, Pakistanis, or Bangladeshis, so they're apt to just smile and nod anyway.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Do not come to Iraq if you have physical difficulties. If you can't run to a bunker, then you're putting other peoples' lives in danger. If you can't manage any other medical issues, such as diabetes, etc., it's best to stay home.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Personnel are required to remain on the compound, and any transport to the airport is done by armored vehicles.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
USWiCom offered moderately reliable service for between 60 and 120 USD a month, depending on bandwidth.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Cargo pants and a collared shirt will get you through nearly every day here. When you want to dress it up, take off the ball cap.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In addition to the "Yes, it's Baghdad" guidance, take all the precautions you would at any other high-crime post. This place attracts a lot of people of lesser character, and thefts/assaults/rapes do happen on BDSC.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The Diplomatic Support Hospital here is a decent trauma facility, although it's no substitute for real-world medical care. If you have any kind of medical issues, don't come to Baghdad.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dusty, particularly when the wind blows. During the winter it can even rain mud here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot for two-thirds of the year, and near-freezing in the winter. Pack a fleece, you'll need it.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, and low. Most people are either waiting to leave or are simply here because they couldn't make it in the outside world.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Probably not. While you could bring your spouse to post if they have a job lined up, would you really want the drama of having him/her leered at in the gym?
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's compound living so you should be fine, although there are a great deal of traditional biases against same-sex partners from both the locally-employed staff/contractors, as well as the military.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
People of Muslim faith should be prepared to encounter some pushback from the current occupants. BDSC has become a military encampment, and the cultural shift is visible.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
There's usually some free time to catch up on your Netflix, but other than that, BDSC doesn't have a whole lot going for it. Unlike other hardships posts, Baghdad is not known for the excellent quality of its personnel. People are here (and specifically at BDSC) for some reason, personal/financial/professional or otherwise. Beware of people who use the tour as an opportunity to re-invent themselves.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There is nothing to do here. Unlike the Embassy, BDSC doesn't even have a CLO to depend on. Apart from the Internet, you'll probably spend all your free time panning your next R&R.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Having a front-row seat to the beginning of World War 3?
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How long it would take to feel like I'd actually left this assignment behind me.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Priority Staffing Posts are like an abusive relationship. As much as you'd like to swear that it's over this time, that you'll never again subject yourself to that suffering and hardship, we all know what the reality is.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that you'll be working at a post that's even remotely functional.
