Baghdad, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 08/30/08
Personal Experiences from Baghdad, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
4th - Central America and South Asia.
2. How long have you lived here?
4 months.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Direct from Washington Dulles to Kuwait or to Amman via connections. Military or Charter air into Baghdad.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Trailers or Embassy Apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I shipped too much - lay out the stuff/clothes you are considering sending and narrow your stuff down. Send good TP and laundry detergent as it is in demand here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A few sketchy restaurants in the International Zone.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO - usually around 1 week from the U.S.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use debit cards at the PX.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes - at the Embassy.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Stars and Stripes is about it.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None - Spanish is actually very helpful here in the IZ.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Might be a bit tough to get to the duck and cover bunkers. If you have physical (or mental) disabilities, this is truly not the place to be.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Same as U.S., if you drive.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
If you are looking to lose weight by no longer having a head and wearing a nice orange jumpsuit in the process, feel free to use local transportation.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No POVs allowed at Post.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes - decent speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The MCI cell phone system that uses a U.S. phone number is likely the worst cell phone system ever made. Iraqna (and Asia-something) work far better.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Calling card via IVG.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Pets aren't allowed.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some EFM jobs at Post.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual for work, casual in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Dust can get very bad.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
A few...
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Stomach issues from water/food and respiratory issues due to dust.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and dusty. Repeat X 365 days...
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We're not quite ready for kids here yet...
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Absolutely huge. There are so many people here it is insane. There are always so many people hanging around the public areas around the palace that I wonder where I should work to have that much time off here.
2. Morale among expats:
All things considered OK. It gets tiring dealing with constant taskers from Washington that come at the end of the day or that you just completed for someone else. Hope that you have a good office that works well together.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It's possible to be social and have fun, but it is far from being the best Post in the world to be a single male.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I was really surprised to find that couples seemed very happy here. The dating scene is very different from the previous unaccompanied posts I've been as a single male. Baghdad is likely the only post in the foreign service where it is far better to be a single female than a single male. Beware the jokes for ladies when you leave Baghdad and land back in the real world -
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I hope it's better for GLBT than it is for straight folks.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many of the 3161 (direct hire/non careeer State Department) employees, some who are very overqualified for their positions, complain of odd treatment by Foreign Service Employees.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Exercise, read, watch DVDs or go to the occasional happy hour.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Upgrades to business class.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes - It was my turn to step up and come here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, POV.
3. But don't forget your:
Hat, sunglasses and sunblock.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
CNN and Fox News.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
CNN and Fox News.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
I'm glad I came when I did, but the sheer size of this place is insane. When you compare the size of Embassy Baghdad to Embassy Kabul, it makes absolutely no sense that Baghdad needs to be this big.
