Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 11/18/14
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
4th tour - other tours include Africa and Central Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC - 14 hours - connections through U.S. East Coast, Frankfurt, occasionally Paris.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Singles, couples, and (to a lesser extent) families without school-age children are housed in Tel Aviv or Ramat Aviv (next to Tel Aviv). Commute time differs - some folks can walk but some are far enough to drive. There is also a great shuttle as long as you are able to be fairly routine in your arrival/departure to work - so 10 to 30 minutes.
Almost all families with school-age children are housed in Herzliya - Pituach (on the west side of the 2 closer to the beach) or Bet (the east side of the 2). Houses seem to be equally nice(-ish) or not on both sides of the highway. You should disabuse yourself of the notion that you will have a house on the beach. You may score a house 5 or 10 minutes from it if you request it and are lucky. If you are a die hard beach person, go for it. Houses in Herzliya are mostly single family, some are spacious apartment/townhome setups.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive but most everything is available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Swim items, sports items, any specialty food items. Really, pretty much everything is here if you look.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Decent to good food. People rave and there are places to rave about but in general I am medium-whelmed. McDonald's is here but it's not that great.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes in the heat of summer and make sure to treat pets for fleas if they are outside at all.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive. If you are around awhile you will figure it out. Diplomats can sponsor someone and HR is good about help with the process.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes and it depends. Holmes Place is the big player - negotiate with them. Also, ask questions about cancellation - fees and getting your money back.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Catholic and there's a non-denominational Christian community. Not sure of the rest.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not much if I'm any example. Most people in Tel Aviv speak English. READING Hebrew would be more useful, in my opinion.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sort of - sidewalks are uneven, buildings are small.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses aren't allowed for Embassy folks. Trains and taxis are safe and there are shared buses - sheruts. I drive everywhere.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Oh man. A tank?
Look, smaller is better as far as parking, etc. Out of anywhere I have been to, your fellow drivers here just DON'T CARE. It's kind of like letting your 6 year old drive while watching the Lego movie. There's some semblance of order until there's something totally crazy that you are supposed to be cool with.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and the Embassy will set it up so it's ready when you arrive - truly brilliant! It's pretty cheap - like US$20 the first year and then US$30 a month after that.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You will need one. If you bring an unlocked one you can check around for deals from local providers.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine but it is outrageously expensive to bring them in even more so if you use an expediter. Vets are good. Not sure about kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't think so and definitely not without Hebrew.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I don't have specifics, but there are opportunities.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual to business casual. Suits on occasion, ties rarely. In public, VERY casual. Nothing like an Embassy where you run to grab lunch in your suit and heels and everyone else is wearing their swim trunks or bikini and flip flops.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Hm. It's highly unlikely that you will be the victim of a mugging, home invasion or assault, but there's a reason the homes have 3 foot thick concrete bunkers. Also, the place is just always on the edge of something happening.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No real health concerns. Medical care seems high quality but very expensive.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Bring your allergy medicine. For food allergies - learn some Hebrew. You can find a lot of gluten free stuff here.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
VERY hot and humid in the summer, "winter" is pleasant and mild and when it rains it's refreshing and welcome.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I think WBAIS (in Even Yehuda - north of Herzliya) and Tabeetha (in Jaffa) are the two to choose from. We've had a child in WBAIS in elementary school and have been extremely happy with the school and the teachers. I feel like the teachers are true professionals - they are from North America but are in Israel permanently so they are not transient. I have consistently been impressed by how much they are experts in their area, their passion for particular teaching programs and frankly, how well they know my child. I know my child won't forget them and her parents will not forget them either.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I really don't know, but there are lots of services available.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Short answer, yes. We chose to pay for full day preschool at AIS for our younger child and we could not be happier with that choice - she loves it and is learning a ton. Like I said, right choice for us but it is expensive. Other options are Anita's, Gan Ora or a local gan. My understanding is that you can put your 3 year old in a local gan for minimal or no cost.
For single parents or a family with two working parents some level of babysitter/nanny may be necessary. Minimum wage for a full time nanny are about US$1,200 month. Some people have live-in help. Talk to the CLO - he/she will know who has a nanny. If you are going to need full-time help it's best to start looking early and try to take over a nanny from a departing family or bring someone in that you sponsor. HR knows all the rules and are very helpful.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not so much. You have to seek it out.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge and generally good. This is the first posting where I haven't made a lot of local or other diplomatic friends but there is a Diplomatic Spouses Club that seems good.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Outdoor activity at the beach, movies, eating out - plays, ballets, art galleries, sightseeing. We gather with close friends at least once a week. This is not a cohesive Embassy community - too big, too spread out.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
All. Despite the prickly outer armor of most Israelis if you can't make a friend, then that's more on you.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Tel Aviv is - there's a pride parade. More conservative areas might not be ok with it.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, for the last few thousand years...
I will save you the ancient and even recent history, but yes, there are problems, to put it mildly. Once you get here and start reading the press every day you'll get it. That's all I'll say - it's depressing.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing the Mediterranean Sea every day, the Golan Heights, Haifa, the Old City in Jerusalem, the Negev, proximity to Jordan - Petra, the Dead Sea.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Open any tour book. There are some things specifically for kids and they are ok. Children are pretty welcome most everywhere.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Oh just any number of things - Roman glass jewelry, art, outdoor adventure, olive wood stuff, dining out, wine.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The history - both ancient and recent.
10. Can you save money?
Sort of. A two income family can.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much of it is off-limits to Embassy personnel. kind of a bummer, but it is what it is.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably. The Israelis are friendly one on one but as a whole it's stressful to deal with them. We chose not to extend our tour. I find this is a "love it or hate it" post. People either want to stay forever or two years is quite enough.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Optimism for peace in the Middle East.
4. But don't forget your:
Aggressive driving moves.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Gatekeepers
Bethlehem (Subtitled)
Munich
6. Do you have any other comments?
I never would have imagined being posted to Israel and frankly I only knew the bare bones of its history. It really is a fascinating place on many levels and I'm glad I've seen the things I've seen. I'm even sort of glad I was here for Protective Edge on some insane level.
It is the Middle East and it's not totally first world. That kind of surprised me. The Israelis can be brusque, aggressive and pushy - and also fun and kind. Come and enjoy!
