Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 04/12/16
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've completed U.S. Embassy tours in Africa and Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. It's a 15-18 hour trip using the United city pair connecting through either Newark on United or Frankfurt on Lufthansa.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Get ready for life in suburban Herzliya (and other nearby towns) if you have a family and want a house. Tel Aviv real estate prices are rocketing and the Embassy can no longer afford anything but small, but nice downtown apartments that only couples and singles can endure. Rush hour traffic is awful. Expect a 45-minute to 1-hour drive (or more) between the suburbs and Embassy.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most consumer goods are imported and the VAT is generally 15%+. City grocery stores are tiny and a huge rip-off. Most people try to shop in cheaper suburban grocery stores. Carmel Market is a good stop for quality produces though prices are not much better than local supermarkets.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Everything is available here. Prices are just higher than the U.S.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's is here and a Burger King just opened, but why eat there when you can enjoy cheap and tasty falafel, hummus and schwarma at every street corner. Foodies will love many of the higher end options.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Typical problems that you see elsewhere -- ants, roaches, mosquitoes (but no malaria).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available at a cost of about US$10-15 per hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are available at costs comparable to large U.S. cities. Free outdoor workout facilities are available at many public parks. Many apartment complexes have no-cost gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
U.S. credit cards are widely accepted. I think you can use credit cards at more places than in Europe.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely spoken in Tel Aviv and most of Israel, but Hebrew is the lingua franca. You may run into problems reading signs, menu, instructions, etc. without some knowledge of Hebrew.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Older buildings are probably not easily accessible by those with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Embassy personnel are still not permitted to ride buses though we can use taxis and sheruts (shared taxis). Taxis and sheruts are fairly affordable. You can get most across Tel Aviv for about US$15 in a taxi. Sherut prices are comparable to local buses, but seats can be hard to find at rush hour.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Roads are good quality so all terrain vehicles are not needed. Tel Aviv street network is largely composed of narrow side streets so beware bringing a large car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The two major companies are Bezeq and HOT. I've heard complaints about both. Our service often slows at peak usage periods.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local cell and data service prices are generally cheaper than the U.S. Major local companies include Pelephone, Golan and Partner. Golan has very good English-language support.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very, very casual in public and at work. At work, Israelis avoid ties most of the year, but this becomes a rule in the summer. In fact, the MFA sends out a notice every summer informing the diplomatic community that ties are not required for business meetings through the high holiday period.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
YES! The crime rate is low in Tel Aviv, but you never know when violence from the Israel-Palestine conflict will escalate. What's been termed a "stabbing Intifada" has occurred over much of the last year with random stabbings and car rammings. Most attacks occurred in Jerusalem and the West Bank, but even the Tel Aviv area has witnessed acts of violence, including a bar being shot up. There are travel restrictions if you travel near Gaza; no one can enter Gaza. You are expected to inform the RSO in advance of visits from the Negav to Eilat region and the Golan. We can only visit Bethlehem and Jericho in the West Bank. All of these areas may be declared off limits at any time because of the local or neighboring security situation.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Healthcare is high quality, but watch out when crossing the street. Israels are horrible drivers so pedestrians generally do not jaywalk or cross the street without a green light.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The Mediterranean Sea breezes help mitigate the dust, but beware when the prevailing winds switch from West to East. In the last year, we've had two horrible dust storms that lasted several days and made it very unhealthy to be outside.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Beware the dust.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's your typical Mediterranean climate. July-September can be hot and humid. It is cool and rains intermittently in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American school is located in Evan Yehuda, about 20 minutes north of the Herzliya area. Another English-large speaking option is the Tabetha School in Jaffa.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I have heard some complaints about the American school's ability to accommodate kids with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are many English-language or bilingual "gans" (Anita's, City Kids, Rainbow Nursery) in the region that provide daycare for small children. They are generally cheaper than U.S. daycare. I have heard complaints about Anita's, but City Kids an Rainbow Nursery have good reputations.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's hard to ascertain the size of the expat community because almost every Tel Avivan appears to have some tie to another country. Morale runs the gamut.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The beach, bars, clubs and restaurants. Bar drinks can be expensive so many Israelis pre-party at home.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a great country for all to enjoy, especially families because Israelis love children. There are lots of going out options and the beaches are wonderful. The downside is that urban-loving families are generally not easily accommodated in the Embassy housing pool.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Tel Aviv is one of the most LGTBI friendliest cities in the world. That said, some of the conservative communities that you find in other parts of Israel are not so welcoming.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes -- it's Israel.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Great food and nightlife, wonderful hiking, exploring thousands of years of diverse history in a country that's about the size of New Jersey.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
So many that it's hard to list them all -- the beach, exploring the Jaffa and Carmel markets, hiking up Masada, climbing old tanks at the armory museum at Latrun, visiting worn Crusader fortresses, exploring the Old City, shopping for unique varieties of pottery and glass objects, etc.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Art, including paintings, pottery and glassware. Lots of judaica too.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The weather is beautiful almost year round with only about two months of August-September hot summer. The beaches are beautiful and clean. Tel Aviv has a great food and nightlife scene. It's also one of the most liberal cities I've ever visited. A recent NYTimes 36 Hours quote sums it up best: "Young, modern Tel Aviv and ancient Jaffa pulse with energy and combine to offer bustling markets, night clubs and a beachside promenade just right for two wheels." Tel Aviv is nicknamed "the bubble" because it often feels far removed from the pervasive conflict in Israel.
10. Can you save money?
Not really.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How prickly Israelis can be to strangers or in first encounters. In fact, native Israels are call "sabra" (prickly pears). They're prickly on the outside, but great friends once you get to know them.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter parka.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Zero Motivation," a humorous take on life in the Israeli military.
