Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 10/24/16
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No-- I have completed several tours in the Foreign Service.
2. How long have you lived here?
2+ years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I have a nice downtown two bedroom apartment. Embassy housing is typically a two bedroom downtown apartment for singles and couples without kids and then single family homes about 9-10 miles away in Herziliya or Kfar Shmaryahu for families with school-age kids. Living in the suburbs means a decent commute for the kids, but can leave the parents with a 45 minute- to an hour or more commute during rush hour depending on traffic. In general the housing is quite good especially based on my experience with previous tours. Apartments downtown are small relatively speaking, but compared to locals the Embassy units are uniformly considered very posh by local standards as they typically are in the nicest areas and buildings.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
All available, but all expensive. Despite relatively low local wages, with relatively few exception goods and services are not that cheap. As a single officer I use a housekeeper sponsored by another family on a part time basis (twice a month) and pay for 5 hours at 250 shekels (that's about $75). Using the duty-free vendors for things like sodas and bottle waters (and definitely any liquor as that can be very expensive locally) saves me a lot, and like many, I also use the DPO to order off walmart.com, amazon and drugstore.com, etc, for some staples.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Most things are readily available if at a premium price. I do think if you have a favorite cleaning item it would be best to ship that along with any specific baking goods. I typically can find hard to find items when I'm abroad back in the States of Europe and just put them in my suitcase. Thinking ready-made pie crusts here and some shower cleaners that can be hard to find in Israel.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
It's an excellent and growing foodie scene. They have basically everything, though it can be expensive. Delivery services are plentiful. I concur with others on here who say skip the few American joints and enjoy amazing produce and Middle Eastern places. Amazing, tasty options in the market, and Tel Aviv has also become something of a vegan/vegetarian haven.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO-- and most of the time it's quite reliable with packages taking around a week and sometimes less.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
See above.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I find this to be the exception, as low-cost gyms that are otherwise decent are on the rise. You can pay anywhere from $25-$50 a month for very good gyms. Not much different from those Stateside though they tend to be a bit lower standard though also quite a bit cheaper than gyms in big US cities. Tel Aviv is a beach town and thus the gyms get lots of activity (as do the beaches and parks where you see many trainers with clients as well as impromptu courses).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, yes and yes. ATMs also offer the best exchange rates.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are Christian churches in Herziliya.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not completely necessary, but those that do know at least some Hebrew will have a much better experience. Tutors fall into the rare category of being affordable, so I'd recommend trying to get at least some basic Hebrew to improve the experience at post. Many options and many will come to your home or meet at a coffee shop. Those eligible for the Embassy post language program should take full advantage.
if you aren't going to take the language, my best advice is to learn a bit about the Jewish high holidays as you'll have a fuller appreciation of their significance while posted here. Those unfamiliar with Judaism are often surprised that the evening before the holiday (sundown) marks the beginning of the holiday, so often the day before any holiday many local shops and businesses will close as early as 1 p.m. to get ready for the holiday.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Decent here but could be better. Again there are groups dedicated to improving access for those with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses not allowed for USG personnel, but GETT taxi app dominates here over Uber and is decently-priced. Shared taxis (sheruts) are permissible and are an excellent way to get around the city easily for the equivalent of less than $2 a ride. I use them all the time.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Israeli drivers are aggressive. Recommend a used car you don't mind getting dinged up-- because you will likely get some dings and bumps.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes--can be ready when you walk in from the Embassy. Very nice service, though with only two providers sometimes people complain it's not as fast as they are used to. Otherwise this is a very wifi-friendly place with most restaurants and shops freely sharing their wifi passcodes. Ditto for the city as you can often get wifi from the city for free right on the beach.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
As of 2013 competition with cell phones resulted in no more expensive long term contracts. Bring your unlocked phone and you can get extremely good rates (anywhere from $10-$30 a month) for unlimited calls and texts to the States with generous internet roaming in country. Only complaint is that automatic billing doesn't always happen automatically and that can mean your service will be interrupted if you havent verified with your credit card bill that payments have been made.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes-- extremely pet friendly place with dogs commonplace in restaurants and cafes (same with cats).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
EFM jobs are usually available, but timing determines a lot. Typically, qualified EFMs usually find a spot. Some home-based businesses exist. Not many work on the local market because of limited Hebrew combined with the fact that wages are considerably lower.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty! Just depends on your area of interest. Lots of people get involved to help with refugees in south Tel Aviv from Sudan, Eritrea, South Sudan, but there are plenty of ways to get involved in a variety of causes.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very informal. As a guy I love not having to wear a tie unless on a special occasion. I've saved tons on not having to dry clean so much. Even a wedding in Israel a guy can wear jeans and a nice t-shirt! Work is usually a collared polo or button down (no tie) and pants.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is extremely low, but like any urban city there are certain areas you need to keep your wits about you. I'm pleasantly surprised that the beaches are relatively safe. I've never heard of someone getting their stuff stolen as most of the time you can ask a stranger to keep an eye out while you take a dip. The biggest risk may be from a renegade dog blowing sand all on your blanket!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very good and available. Helpful Embassy health unit and local providers typically speak good English.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Excellent-- just a stray sand storm a couple of times a year makes the air a bit gross.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Pretty nice though from May until October it's pretty warm (hot even in July Aug and September). This is a beach town with weather very similar to Miami. Can rain in the winter. Typically never colder than the upper 40s in the winter. Weather is a definite plus here!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School in Even Yehuda is highly-regarded with many families stating it's one of the best in the system.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Need to check with the CLO first to make sure the school can provide accommodations. Most can be accommodated, but it's best to check well in advance.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes-- also very family friendly. Activities run the gamut for the kids.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite large. With so many Jews from the diaspora having "made aliya," which means immigrating, you have a large amount of the entire population with strong roots abroad-- and that includes quite a few Americans.
Morale in general tends to be very good, but it can vary. While it is true you can come to Israel and do fine without Hebrew, I often think that making a bit more effort to understand Hebrew would improve the overall experience for those that struggle. I've noticed that single female non-Hebrew speaking employees often end up struggling here. I suspect that's because it can be easy to view this as a bit of a vacation spot, but if you're going to be here for a number of years I think a bit of an investment in learning more of the local language, culture, traditions will help you feel more a part of the community .
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plenty of groups and tours from the CLO. Volunteer groups are also abundant.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I would say for all though as noted above it requires a bit of initiative and a willingness to step outside one's comfort zone.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Excellent-- and the Ambassador sets an extremely inclusive tone.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Of course-- but there are also opportunities to engage all facets of the political spectrum to learn more about the occupation, minorities, etc.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
As a posting, this place has it all as professionally. It is career-enhancing when you do well in Israel. I think it's a great place to live as long as there's not an active conflict (and even then in many regards life goes on fairly routinely save the daily trips to the bomb shelters). That the country is so small and offers so many incredible day trips would be a a group highlight.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Don't forget to check out the wineries!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Judaica. Also, the Armenian tiles in the Old City in Jerusalem are often used to make tables, wine racks, etc.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's great because you can ditch the car and enjoy the sunshine, parks, beach, etc.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That what is called Israeli rudeness is often just people being straightforward. It can still be rude, but often you can just strike it up to cultural differences.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ties!
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen and favorite toiletries as they are expensive here.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Check out ynetnews.com as it's the best free Israeli news source on the internet.
