Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 01/14/22
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Boston, Massachusetts. Connection is usually out of Newark and takes roughly 12 hours.
3. What years did you live here?
2020-2022.
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are 4 main housing assignments in TLV (with exceptions). We live in a tower across the street and a five minute walk from the Embassy Branch Office (EBO), but a little farther from nicer restaurants and Carmel Market. It's the oldest building in the set by far, so it regularly has maintenance issues. Sometimes in the summer there is a sewage smell that can also be smelled at the embassy. Apartments vary in size and age, but most have balconies (some very large). Here, you trade a nicer building for proximity to the beach and work. There is a large pool, a sauna, and a decent gym in the building.
The second option is a complex of 3-4 buildings, which is closest to Carmel Market is second closest to the EBO. You're more in the city here, so closer to nightlife and restaurants. Apartments are much newer, and if you're lucky enough to live in the tower views of the city are great. Some room designs in the tower are odd though (triangle-shaped rooms, why?). It also has a beautiful indoor pool and gym in the complex.
The next option is the best for people prioritizing nightlife and shopping. There are three towers, all of which sit above a marketplace with restaurants, food stalls, and bars. Apartments are very nice and brand new. There is construction all around though, which can make things loud. There is also a playground and park below, which can get loud. They also host Oktoberfest and other events here, but events always abide by the 11pm noise curfew.
Last are the houses up in Herzliya. This is its own separate city and the commute can take 30-60 minutes, depending on traffic. Houses are beautiful, very large with big yards. This is where families will be placed as the American School is here. Herzliya feels like any American suburb.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
While produce at the market is generally cheaper than in the US, everything else is more expensive. Especially, but not limited to, alcohol. You can get almost any product you would want at stores, but we typically order any bulk food items and household supplies on Amazon.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There's nothing we didn't ship that we haven't been able to get via Amazon. However, we always crave normal flavored Doritos (flavors here are bizarre and not very good).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Ontopo is a great app for booking restaurants reservations, while Wolt is the most popular food delivery service. You can find any cuisine here, but all are expensive. The cheapest food here is street food, which almost always comes in a pita and can be very good. You can find these vendors all over the place.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
You can mail everything you need from the EBO post office, so I haven't used a local one.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
No idea, haven't heard of anyone using local help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a big fitness culture here, so gyms are all over, including plenty of free outdoor ones. Not positive about prices but I think they are comparable to US/ slightly more expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, credit card use is the norm. ATMs are around and safe to use. I haven't heard of any scams or anything that would deem them unsafe.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everyone speaks English in Tel Aviv. It helps to know some Hebrew phrases when at the market, and being able to read Hebrew will make your shopping experience easier since most labels are in Hebrew. Language classes are available but I'm not sure about cost. I hardly speak Hebrew and haven't had any issues.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Some, sidewalks can be narrow and people treat sidewalks like parking areas.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are all safe, but like everything in this city, they will be more expensive than in the US. Gett is the popular taxi app. Most people get around with scooters.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything but large SUVs. Space/parking is limited and gas is expensive, so sedans are best. However, the roads are well-maintained and the country is very easy to drive around, so it's nice to have a car of some kind, even if you don't use it often. There is a mechanic at the EBO who can help with almost all maintenance, so long as the car isn't too complicated to fix.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, you can have it installed prior to your arrival. It's comparable to the US.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Hot Mobile is part of TCS, which is the most common internet provider. It's cheaper than in the US but does not have very good coverage if you travel abroad. We've routinely gotten to European countries that we were supposed to have coverage in only to find out our phones hardly worked. Google Fi is probably the best way to go if you plan on traveling a lot and don't want to play a guessing game with your service.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, plenty of good vets. We use Midtown vet, which is very close to the EBO and some apartments. There is no quarantine, but rabies vaccinations expire after only a year in Israel, so you need to stay on top of that. Not sure about kennel services, but this is a very pet-friendly city so I'm sure they exist.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses work at the EBO, although there is less availability than I expected (probably due to the pandemic). Israel is start-up nation, so if you work in tech you can probably find a job. Salaries depend on what industry you are in. Tech seems to be where all the money is, while most other jobs pay less than in the US. Local jobs are required to pay for transportation, so that's nice.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty of options on Google or through the Community Liaison Office (CLO).
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very casual. There are restaurants and nightclubs that will require formal wear, but you see people in jeans and sneakers at the EBO all the time.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Petty crime exists. I've heard of people getting their bikes/scooters stolen when chained up at the beach.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Healthcare/ hospitals are good here. No need for evac. Tons of babies have been born in local hospitals and the mothers I know all had good experiences.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Mostly good. Sometimes it can be bad, but there's only handful of days a year where it gets so bad you don't want to go outside. 99% of the time it's good and outdoor exercise is fine.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Treat your allergies here the way you do in the US.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Rainy season is from December to March. It's usually 60s-70s these days with spurts of intense rain and wind. However, most the time it's sunny. From April to November it hardly rains at all, always sunny. It gets very hot July-September.
Schools & Children:
1. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, they are called gans. Not sure about quality or price.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very big. Americans are everywhere and pretty easy to pick out. They seem to really like it here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
You will meet expats at restaurants, gyms, bars, everywhere. I have become good friends with a group of expats by playing pickup basketball. There are also volleyball and running groups on the beach all the time. Just be social!
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes for singles. Sort of for couples and families. Tel Aviv is a party city with a strong dating culture. Women (and some men) are looking for more serious relationships, so don't be surprised if you get invited to meet the parents after only a few dates.
For couples, there is plenty of nightlife, but beyond that there isn't a ton to do, especially if you want to save money. If you are okay relaxing on the beach and not much else, then you'll be okay here.
For families, hard to say since we don't have kids. Our friends with kids seem to like it.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Yes, very easy. There are definitely micro-aggressions against non-white people here, but I'm not sure how much Americans abroad will feel that. There is blatant racism in the way the Israeli government handles Palestinians (just look at the vaccine rollout), but if you aren't a citizen I think it would be less noticeable.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Very much so. Tel Aviv is by far the most LGBTQ-friendly city in the region and has one of the biggest pride parades in the world. Last year was the only pride parade we'll be here for but it was a blast.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, Muslims/Palestinians definitely face issues here, especially at the airport. If you fall into one of these groups, expect to be pulled aside every time you go to the airport without fail.
There are no gender equality issues. At least here Israel is quite progressive.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
While here, you definitely have to visit the Sea of Galilee, Ein Gedi, Masada, and Ramon Crater, where you have to do a star tour. You also should definitely drive to Jordan, it's pretty easy and amazing. If you want to spend time on the Dead Sea, go to the Jordan side; it's cleaner, cheaper, and has nicer people.
Don't bother with Haifa unless you are going to the Bahai Gardens. Eilat is fine, but has great diving opportunities. Jerusalem is interesting as well.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
No real hidden gems. The beach and bars are the main places to go. The best way to have fun is to make friends and hang out together in parks or on the beach where you don't have to spend $12 on a bad beer.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not at all actually. Everything is too expensive and any handicrafts are cheaply made and ugly. You could buy some items in the religious areas of Jerusalem, Bethlehem, or Nazareth if you're into that sort of thing, but Tel Aviv is not the place.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's easy and relatively cheap to fly to Europe from here. The weather is great 3/4 of the year. Israel is also easy to drive across, so if you have a car you can see all there is to see pretty easily.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How expensive everything is.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I wouldn't be nearly as excited as I was. This place is fine.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothing.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen. Also, be ready to argue with locals.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Fauda is a great show, although probably not the best for understanding how Israel works. There are plenty of books out there about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. I would recommend reading one that doesn't take sides, but rather lays out the facts dating back to the first aliyah.
6. Do you have any other comments?
While people are nice once you get to know them, every interaction with locals that is fewer than 20 seconds can be frustrating. In my opinion, people here are inconsiderate, selfish, aggressive, and often seem to play victim. However, any time you engage and talk to them in depth, they are the opposite. It's rather perplexing.
