Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 10/07/16
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, this was my first.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Including stopover, it is a 20 hour trip. There are one stop flights on KLM, Lufthansa and Turkish Airlines.
3. How long have you lived here?
26 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing options are constantly changing. Most are newer construction. The power grid is reliable. Water can run brown at times. Traffic is bad and getting worse as Astana grows in size and population. Key arteries tend to be choked during rush hours which are later than in the U.S. Typically, rush hours are 0830-1000 and 1900-2030.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Some products appear and disappear at the grocery store. If you aren't particular about a certain brand or beverage, you can make do. The convenience stores (Magazin) are better stocked than one might expect based on outside appearances. And prices at the minimarkets are identical to the prices charged at larger supermarkets. Be prepared to have exact change--many vendors ask patrons for exact payments.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Salsa, chocolate chips, icing.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Georgian restaurants; local Shashlik cafes and Western fast food (McDonalds, KFC, Burger King).
Restaurants in Astana quickly open and close. Much of this is related to inconsistent food quality and service. Most restaurants include pizza and sushi and many allow smoking of the hookah. Restaurants also tend to be upscale (including the prices), with MTV-style dance music on wall-mounted TVs. It's a late-arriving dinner crowd in Astana. At 6 p.m., you're liable to be the only diner.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is pouch service at the Embassy which takes 2-4 weeks to reach us. Local post is expensive and unreliable. There is also DHL for international shipping--also expensive but reliable.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Local help (nannies, housekeepers) are available. References are available through various expat newsletters and message boards. The cost is affordable.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are quite a few gyms that offer a host of different exercise regimens, equipment and personal training. The number is growing every day. Indoor swimming pools are few and far between. During the winter, there are several ice rinks that offer public skating.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are reasonably safe to use here and ATM machines are common around the city.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is essential to know Russian at this post. Few people are fluent in English. If you are creative with your hands and facial expressions, you can often get your point across. Russian is not an easy language to learn. There are quite a few language classes and tutors around town if you're brave.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be an extremely hard place to live with a handicap of any type.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local buses are very cheap but crowded. Public transport infrastructure is 10 years behind where it should be. Many expats use "gypsy cabs" by sticking their arms out at a 30 degree angle and negotiating a rate with the driver. Knowledge of rudimentary Russian is a must. There are marked taxi services that are considered safer, cleaner but are more expensive.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Snow tires are a must. For someone interested in driving into the hinterlands, a vehicle with high ground clearance is recommended, as the roads get markedly worse on the outskirts of the city.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed internet is decent and cheap. And installation is quick.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Buy a local sim card. The rates are quite cheap.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some spouses telework, others have jobs at the American school while some work at the Embassy. Salaries for spouses tend to be about half what they would be in the U.S.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
American Corner--talking to locals about miscellaneous topics in English; other one-off volunteer opportunities tend to be announced by the CLO.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The dress code is more formal in Kazakhstan than in the US, though ties get loosened and the top button undone after lunch. Black tie events are rare, however.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There have been some reports of assaults and thefts. Generally, people feel safe in Astana from a crime standpoint. With terrorist incidents in Almaty and Aktobe in 2016, the threat level has increased.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care tends to be good and some expats even elect to have surgeries at the hospitals here. Many opt to go back to the US for surgeries as well as to give birth, however.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Most of the time the air quality is good. During the summer months, the main issue is a bit of dust in the air. During the winter, the burning of high sulfur coal creates a tremendous amount of smog which settles if the air is not stirred by the wind.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Be aware of the nearest smokestacks in relation to the prevailing wind on a winter day. Because of particulate matter in the air, Astana is not advisable for those suffering from asthma.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The main issue in Astana is akin to island fever. Astana feels very much like an island on a sea of steppe. There isn't much to do in the city, especially for those who aren't fluent in Russian.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is warm and dry in the summer with short autumn and spring seasons. Winter is legendary, with temperatures that don't rise above 32 for three months straight. Negative 30 is not uncommon during the height of the winter season. Astana receives a moderate amount of rain and snowfall. The city does an outstanding job removing snow as it accumulates on streets and sidewalks. The same cannot be said for the removal of rainwater. Standing water and mud are omnipresent during rainy stretches. The city has few storm water sewers, and even fewer that work. Be careful around manhole covers as well--most lids are broken or will be soon.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several international schools in Astana. There are three that very few expats attend: Nazarbayev Intellectual School, Nurorda and Miras. The main two are Haileybury (British) and QSI (US). QSI uses an unorthodox approach to teaching and learning. Haileybury follows the British curriculum and is part of COBIS.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
This is not a post that would be appropriate for most special needs children. It is not a forgiving or accommodating place for those with disabilities and it is rare to see someone with physical or mental handicaps in public.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Much more so if the children speak Russian.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The international community is spread out all over town. The morale is diverse. Most newcomers exhibit a sense of adventure that for some, outlasts a one to two year tour. It's a difficult place to live for more than two years.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are some organized events. These tend to be hit and miss. With a small-ish expat community, there isn't much of a critical mass for many activities.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not really-this is really a "make your own fun" sort of place.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not really--the society here is on the traditional side of the spectrum on many issues.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This is a tough place to live for African Americans. There is no anonymity and some of the behavior is just plain inappropriate. People here aren't shy about the hair of those of African heritage or taking selfies with them.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling to Almaty to go skiing at Shymbulak, flying to Europe
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Outside of some interesting architecture (Khan Shatyr, Baiterek, Mosque), the new National Museum and the rather mediocre museum to the women victims of the Women's GuLAG Alzhir, there isn't much to do in town. Borovoe is a beautiful area 2.5 hours north of the city with lakes and small mountains, however.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Kazakhstan is known for felt handicrafts, tooled leather goods and the two stringed musical instrument the dombrya.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
There are flight connections to UAE, Turkey, Europe and the sub-continent, all about 5-6 hours away. It is also a great place to live if you like winter sports--cross country skiing, skating, sledding.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The need for language proficiency.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No way.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sleeping pills.
4. But don't forget your:
Fleece.
