Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 10/19/17
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was my fifth overseas post; previously I worked in Manila, Montreal, Moscow, and Yerevan (Armenia).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
U.S.
3. How long have you lived here?
We lived there 2010-13.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most embassy housing tends to be apartments, and unlike in the U.S., there are a lot of large (4-bedroom) apartments. We had a great apartment about a 10-minute drive from the office.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There were several big grocery chains, including Ramstore and Makro (sort of the German version of Costco). There was hardly anything you couldn't buy. Prices generally comparable to in the US.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We managed to ship what we needed.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Astana is not a great town for restaurants; unlike Almaty, it's not much of a cafe society. A number of fast-food franchises are present. We didn't eat out much aside from at mall food courts.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch only.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Decent availability, reasonable cost. We had both nannies and housekeepers.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Several gyms. Two 50-meter pools, both kind of run-down and Soviet in their operation, but usable. Also a couple ice rinks, including a major speed-skating stadium with a speed-skating track and two hockey rinks open to public skating (and the staff were really nice to us Americans).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You could use credit cards pretty much anywhere. We generally used the embassy ATM but they were elsewhere and safe to use.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English proficiency is not great on the street; some ability in Russian is pretty much essential, though people in stores/restaurants are usually pretty indulgent of foreigners struggling with Russian.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
yes; not disabled-friendly. Certainly not ADA-compliant.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Never took the bus. Occasionally took gypsy cabs - negotiate fare with the driver - generally safe.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The area is very flat so as long as you have snow tires, anything will work. But most people tend to have SUVs.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Very decent and reasonable price.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local SIM card.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Pretty much just at the embassy or international school.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Standard U.S. dress code.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We found it to be perfectly safe. Our kids were young at the time but if a little older would have had no problem with their going out on their own.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Embassy medical care was quite good. The local health system has some good facilities for testing, but for any serious treatment you'd want to go west, if only for language reasons.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good in the summer, smoggy in the winter due to coal burning.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and dry in the summer, very cold (down to minus 40) in the winter. But dress warm and you'll be fine.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Several excellent schools. Most expats sent their kids to QSI, which opened up a new campus after we left. Miras is an international school officially, but with the opening of Haileybury a lot of people went there.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
QSI seemed to be ready to accommodate.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, but generally only Russian or Kazakh language.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Probably, if you speak Russian.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Mostly embassy community, as well as teachers from the schools and faculty from Nazarbayev University. We found the morale to be quite good.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
We are a family with four kids. There was enough for us to do but singles might run out of things a little more quickly.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably not; just not compatible with the local culture.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not that I could see.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Swimming, cycling, skating (at the rinks and on the frozen canal). Also professional hockey and soccer teams; the hockey games are particularly compelling.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not especially.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I wouldn't want to live there forever, but it was a great three years. I'd go back if there was a chance.
2. But don't forget your:
Warm clothes.
3. Do you have any other comments?
Astana is a fascinating place. The people aren't necessarily warm and embracing, but they were generally very friendly to us. It's cold in winter and a long way from western Europe, but if you can handle those two things, you can have a great time there for a couple years.
