Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 03/19/15
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
It was my first expat experience the first time I traveled here, and I've also lived in Paris, Galway, Islamabad and Kigali.
This post would be tough if you didn't have a decent level of French. It would be even better if you could master some basics in Malagasy (which is pretty easy to learn).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Washington DC, and the typical routing is via Paris. The other main options for connections are Bangkok, Nairobi, Reunion Island and Johannesburg.
3. How long have you lived here?
A total of 3 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I've lived in Tana six times over the last 15 years, each time for a different reason, and most recently as a researcher.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Excellent availability of groceries. There are major international grocery stores with products from Europe with a bit of a markup. The local fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, poultry etc are varied, excellent quality and reasonably priced.
2. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The options here are limitless. The best would be to pick up several guidebooks, then ask your friends once you arrive to take you to new places as they open. Good food is not lacking in Tana, and it's possible to eat very cheaply or expensively depending on what you want. Elite restaurants are probably around US$20-30 on average without alcohol (places like Lavaranga or Chez Mariette's [the latter a cordon bleu certified chef who blends traditional dishes with French cooking techniques]). Slightly less fancy high end places are maybe US$12-15 (La Boussole, Ku De Ta). Average for restaurants that draw middle class locals and expats would be around US$5-8 (Gastro Pizza etc). Simple local cuisine in a "hotely" is around US$1-3.
3. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The usual assortment of insects (lots of mosquitoes) and quite a few indigenous ones you won't recognize. Once I found a moth plastered to the underside of my sink that was bigger than my hand. The older wooden plank floors in traditional and historic houses around Tana are favorites with fleas, so take precautions (for your mattress as well).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The public mail service is slow and items are often lost/waylaid en route. DHL, FedEx and UPS are available and reliable.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Several of the hotels offer membership deals to use their gyms. There are also quite a few other gyms around town.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most banks have ATMs in major cities around the island. It's a good idea to have an ATM card with a chip in it rather than just an American-style strip as it will work in more machines. Smaller towns may not have an ATM. In my experience, most stores and restaurants don't accept cards unless they're in major hotels, with a few notable exceptions (like many of the high end stores in the upscale Zoom shopping center in Tana). Carry cash.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You definitely need French - English is not used much. Malagasy is helpful but not necessary for most interactions, but if you shop at local markets it would be useful to pick up some basics, which are easy to master. You'll win quite a few hearts!
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Tana would be a very difficult city for someone with physical disabilities. The city is full of hills and rickety 150 year old stone staircases. Large sections can flood in the rainy season. Traffic is slow, including public transport, consisting of private taxis and group taxi minibuses. The latter you have to step up into and they're crowded and hard to maneuver in. Getting around downtown on foot is often preferred because it can be faster, but the sidewalks (where there are any) are usually crammed with street vendors, leaving no option but to walk in the street dodging traffic.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I've never had a problem with local transport. It's generally safe. The main issues are some recent concerns over bandits hitting group taxis on national routes between major cities at night, although I hear this is improving. The group taxis have dealt with it by forming convoys so they don't travel alone. Police also sometimes offer to ride in the vehicle if there is a particular concern. The other main issue is the drivers getting drowsy on the road. It happens every once in a while that there's an accident because of this, but it's the exception.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small SUV with 4WD is a must during the rainy season, especially outside of Tana. The roads are often in poor condition for long stretches (even the paved roads, and those are few outside of Tana). Japanese parts and servicing are easy to find in Tana.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, this is available... costs are coming down regularly. Best to check once you arrive in country.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are cheap and easy to find... no problems here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The main concerns are similar to other big cities - petty theft, mainly, so keep valuables out of sight/reach. Don't drive around town with your windows down as it invites purse snatching. Violent crime is relatively rare in Madagascar, but don't take unnecessary risks. Now that the political crisis has been resolved
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally I find the air quality to be moderate in Tana. The rain, breezes and high altitude help to keep the air reasonably clean, but many cars pump out a huge amount of exhaust, and it's not enjoyable to have to walk down a sidewalk alongside stalled traffic or have a toxic bus blow a black cloud your way as it labors up one of Tana's many hills. Definitely avoid walking through one of the city's two tunnels, which trap the exhaust.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is very comfortable - for me, ideal. Because the sun is intense but the altitude keeps things cool, and because Tana is full of hills and stairs, while walking around town it's easy to have sunstroke/dehydration without realizing it. Keep lots of water on hand and drink throughout the day if you're walking.
Expat Life:
1. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Speaking as a single, this is a great post for singles. I've made lots of local friends, which is of course the best way to get to know the place. Nightlife here is a lot of fun. There's European style techno, hip-hop and pop music clubs, lots of clubs that play Malagasy + African music, lots of live cabarets, piano bars, and even the occasional concert featuring an international artist. There are tons of great restaurants serving all kinds of cuisines, pool halls, karaoke, dance/spoken word/theater etc events at the Centre Culturel Albert Camus or Centre Germano-Malagasy, an upcoming American Cultural Center that will have a movie theater in it, lecture series at the university and hosted by various NGOs, art galleries, several public pools, plenty of places to watch or play sports (rugby is an especially big sport here), all kinds of exhibitions, hira gasy and other traditional events... there's plenty to do if you know where to look to find out about it.
2. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Intolerance and prejudice are the norm toward the gay and lesbian community, unfortunately. But there is an underground scene. If you carefully explore, you can find it, and it's a lot of fun (mainly revolving around house parties).
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There are some biases among a certain proportion of the population. Historically, there was a certain trend for the more fair-skinned/Austronesian-origin Malagasy to view themselves as superior to Malagasy with darker complexions, but this is diminishing. There was also historically some animosity among Malagasy toward the Indo-Pakistani and Chinese populations, who became prominent in commerce over the last century. How much these things still influence day-to-day interactions or would impact you would largely depend on the attitudes of any given individual you meet - it varies a lot and there's been a push among the younger urban generation in particular to leave the past in the past. I'm not aware of any prejudice against Muslims - they're a minority that has long been established on the island. Men and women are fairly equal in general in Madagascar, although there are some traditional gender roles that persist in some families, which some women find limiting. Both genders are well represented in the public sphere and generally both have a say in the family sphere.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Making local friends; volunteering at the English Teaching Program in Tana and exploring Madagascar with its Mountain Climbing Club; visiting national parks, trekking and camping; incredible live music and nightlife; participating in local festivities like a famadihana, weddings, and the traditional new year celebration; discovering delicious local dishes; weekly visits to the colorful neighborhood market; meeting and learning from local painters (there are lots of great artists); strolling the historic neighborhoods of Tana taking in the architecture; visiting historic sites around the highlands (the 12 sacred hills etc); learning to play the valiha.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The main tourist attractions in Tana are the royal palace (Rova of Antananarivo), the Ambohimanga UNESCO world heritage site, and Lemurs Park. For a nice afternoon escape I really recommend visiting the 12 sacred hills, including the villages of Ambohidrabiby, Ambohidratrimo, Alasora, Imerimanjaka and Ilafy. For a longer day or weekend trip the options are many: Lake Mantasoa and the ruins of the 19th century munitions factories there, the hot springs and Lily waterfall at Ampefy, and the beautiful waterfall and paths around Queen Ranavalona's summer palace at Tsinjoarivo, to name just a few. This is a beautiful, safe country for exploring off the beaten path.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are beautiful local woven cloths called lambas that look great framed. Local silver bracelets are also very striking. There are lots of local gemstones of high quality, although not especially cheap unless you know the going prices and can assess quality and bargain hard (the pink sapphires are outstanding). Much of the art sold in artisan markets is mass produced but art galleries like Roses et Baobabs have one of a kind pieces of top quality (paintings, sculptures, drawings etc). Local musical instruments are available and fun to learn.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Madagascar is truly a unique place. As an island, it doesn't share its culture with anywhere else, although the influences are evident from Indonesia, East Africa, India and France. The wildlife and landscapes are spectacular and the high endemism makes it a truly incomparable paradise for hiking, camping and other outdoor activities. There's great natural diversity from one part of the island to the other, and you could easily spend a full tour here only traveling within the country and still not see everything there is to discover.
The weather is excellent in Tana. In summer temperatures can creep toward 90F with heavy afternoon rainstorms that create spectacular sunsets and clean the air. In winter it's usually clear and sunny, around 70F degrees in the daytime and in the 40s at night, but it never snows (frost happens rarely). The spring and fall are sunny and mostly clear and in the high 70s/low 80s. There are all kinds of excellent seasonal fruits and veggies, and lots of flowers in Tana (and the national parks!). The way the countryside looks can vary dramatically according to the season.
The culture is distinctive and vibrant, and I really enjoyed discovering the music, dancing, cuisine, local customs and worldview, and historical sites, which are numerous and well preserved relative to several other places in Africa. Having lived in other African posts, I feel Tana has as much or more to do within a day's drive than most others, although those who've only ever lived in larger/more developed cities might find the options limited.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Can't wait to go back.
2. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Watch the documentary on Mahaleo, the island's most beloved musical group.
3. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Bradt Guide to Madagascar is the best by far in English. Lonely Planet also has some complementary information in their guide. In French, check out La Petite Fute, Routard, and Le Guide Bleu.
