Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 06/15/16
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second post. Previous Tirana, Albania.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Seattle, USA. It's a long long way to Tana from Seattle! Via Paris or via Johannesburg, SA are primary routes, though possibly some new options coming up. IF you have a pet... it's via Paris baby!
3. How long have you lived here?
Since summer 2015.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Totally varies on your timing and who just moved out- some houses small others bigger. Housing pool is decent though layouts are funky and decisions on room sizes by the builders are baffling...how big should your bathroom be?
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
For the most part groceries are decent here--French influence? Good choices, decent quality. Best of all the bread is good and meat cuts recognizable and without bits of bone/ gristle. You can get most familiar things, cost is pretty good mostly.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Depends on your need for comfort items. Though we have a gracious consumable allowance, there is plenty of choice here in most areas. You cannot ship liquids by pouch in any quantity, so that is a consideration for consumables. Beer here is light and mostly the same, whatever the brand. Brew your own, or ship it in if you appreciate microbrews. Wine and spirits are freely available either in country or via duty free.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are some decent eating options in town and some choices close to the typical expat housing area in Ivandry. Costs of eating out are very reasonable. There is not much in way of takeout. Some pizza delivery, though in our experience pizza here is a bit on the sad side, though hits the spot when starving!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Since Tana is in the Highlands, we are above the malaria zone, so antimalarials are not really needed here. If you go out of town though, malaria is present throughout the country. There is Plague here (bubonic and pulmonic) but you have to really be in a bad setting to be exposed to that. Schistosomiasis is in virtually all standing fresh water
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Fortunate to get dip pouch-service. Have not used local mail service.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and plentiful--the usual range. Many expats have housekeepers, gardeners, some have cooks at least part-time, those with younger kids employ nannies. Many people have a driver too, though the needs for that might diminish after you have been here a while. It often seems like these employees come with the house or vehicle. Not all speak English... so best work on your French language employer skills!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Minimal facilities here. Couple of gyms, not super cheap apparently. There is a local athletic track that people can get into easily for free. If you are self directed, there are plenty of running and biking opportunities (mountain bike primarily, though the roads out of town are not too bad or busy...so maybe road bike???)
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Minimal use, thoough bigger hotels and grocery stores will take them. For usual places, cash is it. ATM's are around and safe to use (at least as safe as anywhere else)
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Business is in French. Locals speak Malagasy first and most will speak some French. English is rare! Language classes are available
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yup. Infrastructure is dire, roads bad, sidewalks even worse. No ADA rules apply here. It is bad enough if you are a normal pedestrian, let alone dealing with a physical disability!
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local taxis and vans are rickety, barely intact and usually jam-packed. Cheap to take a taxi, is it safe? Your seat belt might not work and if you ignore the hole in the floor while holding the door closed, you should be good... Very few trains in Mada, though a couple exist.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Roads are harsh here. Potholes and mud can be maddening. A tough late model SUV, preferably 4WD with some clearance height. Traffic is heinous (understatement), parking and maneuvering tight, so leave your monster SUV at home. Fuel is not cheap, diesel better. Toyota king of the heap.. plentiful landcruiser, prados and so forth just like everywhere else in Africa. Easy to get spares and repairs- though not clear how trained the repair folks are here...Probably not thinking they are ACE certified!
Phone & Internet:
1. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Unlocked phone + sim card. We use our iphones, they work fine. Plenty of mobile plans here, 3g in capital. Not too expensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
A few decent vets here in town. Plenty of expats have dogs and cats here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
For DOS folks, plenty of EFM jobs at embassy. Outside there are many NGO's that could use help.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
This country has huge humanitarian needs. If you have the time, and money is no object, someone can use your help!
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pretty casual around town. Shorts are fine, nobody really seems to care. Typical embassy-wear and formal requirements.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Typical security concerns from petty crime and theft. Not too much in way of violent crime, certainly, not aimed specifically at expats. This is a poor country though (most families live on less than $2 a day) so prudence and respect should be used when venturing out.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is a bit rough. Embassy has a health unit with FT medical provider and medevac to Pretoria at the first sign of something 'good,' so that should tell you something. Emergency services are minimal, no 911. Trauma services are dire... have medevac insurance!!! There are a few clinics that provide reasonable primary care, but even with a good provider, the equipment and supplies are minimal. Medications often from France are actually decent.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can be really poor during Sept-October. Many fires in hills or with brick firing along the digues. Often inversions trap air in city. Rest of the year is not too bad.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Nothing special from my experience.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No, usual expats in way remote place issues. Be aware there are minimal in-country mental health services here!
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
In Tana, winters are cool (60's F) and summers are pleasantly hot (80's). Humidity is low... so actually quite nice. It is hot and humid in the coastal areas though...
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American School of Antananarivo, Lycee Francais, British International School. The Lycee is big with lots of facilities. The American school is pretty small, with minimal sports/ advanced facilities. moving to a bigger campus in 1-2 years, things should improve dramatically. IB curriculum.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Unknown- check with the school.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
After school programs at ASA. Many folks at post have younger kids and use local preschools- either French or English speaking. Seem happy with what they are getting.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Minimal. Best be creating your own opportunities!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Decent spread of expats due to all the NGO's here. Makes for fun social interactions, not just with co-workers. Morale seems pretty good.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Make your own! There is an active local Hash group. A number of folks are active mountain bikers and seem to find plenty of opportunities for getting out and about. Usual expat social scene. Plenty of lemurs and amazing national parks to visit... however, travel times are usually very long due to distance, traffic, poor roads...
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Plenty of singles, some night life. Plenty of families with younger kids. Tougher for high school aged kids... not much to do without transport, few places to 'hang out'
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Seems fairly benign, but not qualified to comment.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
This is an amazing place. There are trips all over the place to be taken here. Read the Bradt Guide or Lonely Planet for suggestions.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Limitless mountain biking!!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Some interesting craft items for sure.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is remote, difficult to get around or through due to traffic, extreme poverty, dire infrastructure.... yet people are friendly, especially if you make an effort in Malagasy, courteous despite their daily struggles.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
All, part of life's rich tapestry. Roll with the punches!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure, we actually extended our tour a year, if that tells you anything!
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Roller blades and your sense of entitlement!
4. But don't forget your:
Bring your bikes- the commute is much quicker on a bike through the fields than sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, bring cool weather clothing (winter here is cooler than you would expect for the tropics!!!!), a good attitude and sense of adventure!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Bradt Guide and Lonely Planet Guides to Madagascar. 8th Continent is good read too, but makes more sense once you are actually here!
6. Do you have any other comments?
This has been an interesting experience for us. We wanted to do something different and this checks that box pretty well. Still lots to go see and do before we leave!
