Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 04/13/10
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have lived in Dhaka, Manila, Budapest and Jerusalem.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
The trip from DC to Tana is about 24 hours with layovers. Flights are generally either through Paris or Johannesburg.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Many foreigners live in the neighborhood called Ivandry. Embassy employees live in either houses or apartments. The apartments are new, modern, and very well appointed. I like them a lot. The embassy just moved locations and it takes about 25 minutes each way (no matter what time of day).Without traffic, it takes 15 minutes to go from Ivandry to downtown.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are three major international grocery store chains (two French, one South African) which stock nearly everything. There are also local markets where you can get meat, fish, veggies and fruit. I find the food to be relatively cheap, as long as you aren't buying only American-branded cereals and the like.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None that I can think of.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are no American fast food chains. There are many pizza joints, however. The food here is excellent - if you like French fusion. A main course at the nice restaurants will cost about $7. A main course at the nicest and most expensive restaurant in town is only $20. Eating out is a night in and of itself. With wine, appetizers, and desserts (all of which are amazing) a meal will take about two hours to eat. There are many ethnic restaurants here, including Thai, Chinese, Italian, Korean, etc.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Even though I've always heard about them before arrival, I have yet to see a Madagascar hissing cockroach!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I don't use the local mail system. The embassy has a pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is very good and very inexpensive. I pay about $60 for part-time help. Maids often cook as well. In my experience, they are very reliable, hard working, and a true asset.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
yes
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Only one bank accepts Mastercard at their ATM. The rest accept only Visa. I've used credit cards at the grocery store and some higher-end tourist shops. It's a cash economy, though. The highest note is equal to $5, so you'll be carrying around a lot of cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There's one English language newspaper, but it doesn't really provide any news from what I can tell. There was satellite tv from South Africa available, but that has been out of service for a few months now. No word on when/if it will return.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is pretty essential for daily living. There are people who don't speak it, but I use it daily. A few words of Malagasy are nice. Many people outside the major cities do not speak much French.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
People with physical disabilities would not be able to manage the city. It's built on many hills and there are stairs everywhere. There are very few sidewalks and many of the streets are cobblestone.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are no local trains and long distance buses are not recommended. They are uncomfortable, take a long time, and are becoming unsafe. Taxis are ok and relatively safe.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4x4 vehicles are the best. I have a Rav4 and love it due to the size. The roads are very very narrow (add to that the lack of sidewalks and everyone and everything being on the road with you), and I can't imagine driving a larger vehicle. That said, many people have large SUVs. Toyota is best, as there are many dealerships and repair shops.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is expensive and of bad quality. I pay $70 for ADSL that is quite slow. It's fast enough for Skype, however. Madagascar was recently connected to two underwater fiber optic cables. I hope that the speed will soon go up and the cost will soon go down.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone needs a mobile phone. SIM cards are easily available, as are cards for topping-up credit.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business and business casual at work. In public, anything goes.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Security has gone downhill since the 2009 coup d'etat. Armed robbery, which was nearly non-existent two years ago, is now unfortunately fairly common. Foreigners are almost never targeted in that crime, however. Petty crime such as pickpocketing has gone up sharply. Although crime isn't nearly as bad as in most other places in Africa, it's much worse than it was.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Technically Tana is a very dirty city. However, I haven't had any respiratory problems. Sanitation is nearly non-existant, however, and public urination and defecation are common sites.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is great. It's about 85 degrees in summer and 70 in winter. It can get cold (45 or 50 degrees) at night in winter, however. All Embassy housing has either heaters or fireplaces. The sky is almost always clear and bright blue. It can be quite hot and humid on the coast.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I have no kids in the school but have not heard good things about it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are over 20,000 French on the island. There are only about 1000 Americans. Most of the French here are men married to Malagasy women.
2. Morale among expats:
Morale among my friends is quite good here. We all love(d) it here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this is a great city for everyone. Heterosexual single men have many dating opportunities. Women and non-heterosexual men might be frustated with the scene. That said, with a good group of friends, there are boundless opportunities. There are many excellent restaurants and several clubs and bars. There's a lot of hiking to do in and out of the city. There are several tennis courts and two larger clubs with pools, equestrian facilities, etc.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It is not a good city for them. There is no open gay scene of which to speak.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I have not heard of, nor experienced, any problem with prejudices. There are some anti-French sentiments, however.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The domestic travel has been outstanding. I've taken countless day and weekend trips and have barely scratched the surface of what there is to see. Mainly there's beaches and hiking. I also love the food here.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Eat out, travel, hike, camp, etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Vanilla, scarves, wood carvings, gems/jewelry, rocks, petrified wood, etc.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The weather in Tana is amazing. Because of the altitude, it never gets too hot or too cold. The skies are almost always clear and blue. The traveling opportunities are country cannot be rivaled. There is so much to see and do - you will never be bored.
11. Can you save money?
Yes. Even with all my traveling I have saved a lot. An insider tip: book domestic flights more than 14 days in advance for a 40% discount on fares. With the 40% off, the fares are somewhat reasonable, without it, they are prohibitively expensive and not worth it.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I have loved it here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
patience for traffic, guide books, sense of adventure.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
This is a hardship post, and given its isolation, difficult traffic, dirtiness, etc., it can be a difficult place to live. But if you have the right attitude and enjoy all that it has to offer, it can be the most amazing place you've ever been.
