Yangon, Myanmar Report of what it's like to live there - 03/08/19
Personal Experiences from Yangon, Myanmar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've had many overseas tours.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
U.S. east coast. It's about 24 hours, regardless of whether you fly west or east (yikes!). Most common connections are Toyko, Seoul, Dubai and Doha (all 5-7 hours), Bangkok (1 hour) or Singapore (2.5 hours).
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We lived in a serviced apartment and really like it; great pool, lots of people to hang out with, and awesome support from staff. Many include daily housekeeping. The downside is that there is no storage and the building will not remove anything (couches, forks, nothing!) of theirs, so you need to bring as little as possible. Also, most serviced apartments do not allow pets. Houses tend to be large and exactly what you dream about for Southeast Asia, but they are maintenance nightmares: mold. bugs, water damage, snakes (this stuff is real here). Prepare to spend a lot of time getting things fixed. Overall, everyone seems fairly happy with housing. Commute times vary but are generally under 30 minutes, but do your research on this, because some intersections can add 15 minutes to your commute every day. Walking commutes are rare due to lack of sidewalks and challenging weather. Bicycles are technically illegal in Yangon but expats get away with using them, although it's pretty dangerous due to the insanity of the roads here.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
This was a pleasant surprise, as a huge variety is available here. Marketplace, the fancy grocery stores, imports from Australia, Malaysia, Korea and Japan and has things like US apples and salmon and wine for not insane prices. Dairy costs about what it does in the west (it's all imported), but everything local is extremely cheap. We spent about $100/week for a family of four, and that includes organic veggies and lots of dairy and imported meat products. If we shopped only at the wet markets it would be less than half that. Local produce is highly varied and very good (but of course seasonal); there is also lots of local poultry and fish. Myanmar people are not huge beef and pork eaters so these can be a little harder to find. Halal meet is available. There are various subscription services that will deliver; the Embassy commissary is pretty mediocre but increasingly less important.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We shipped the usual baking supplies, wine and beer, kids' snacks, laundry detergent, olive oil and vinegar, toiletries. We could have found substitutes here (or carried them back from runs to Bangkok and KL) but I'm glad we did because this was much cheaper and easier. People definitely ship pet food if they have pets.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Another pleasant surprise: there is a pretty good (well, okay) and growing food scene here. Myanmar cuisine is very diverse, ranging from grilled sea food from Rakhine, to Shan noodles, to hot pot, to BBQ, to localized Indian food, to lots of fermented salads, and is available every 50 feet or so. Many Myanmar people eat almost all of their meals at tea shops or street food vendors. There is also a plethora of good Indian, Thai, Korean, Japanese and Chinese options, a pretty good pizza place with a kids' play area, and a fair number of acceptable or better western places. Prices range from miniscule for Myanmar food to New York-level for some of the nice western places. Hotel brunches are really popular and great. YangonDoor2Door is like Seamless and delivers from almost everyone. Oh, and there is a Burger King at the airport and we all occasionally get really excited about eating there.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
In apartments, you'll fight an endless war with ants and see an occasional (HUGE) cockroach, but that's it. If you consider geckos pests, you'll be upset, but if you like them because they eat all of the other bugs, you're in luck. In houses, mosquitoes, snakes, mold, cockroaches...it's the tropics. Most people in houses employ a gardener to deal with some of this stuff. A note on mosquitoes: dengue is real in Yangon and expats get it. Wearing bug spray all the time is essential, no matter where you live.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. We've used DHL and it worked, but it was $100 for an envelope. There is a courier service here for sending and receiving packages from abroad, as well.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Pretty much everyone has some sort of help: driver, gardener, nanny, cook, cleaner, depending on your living situation. We have a part-time cook/ironer. Salaries top out at about US$400/month full time (which is technically six days), and generally are significantly lower. Almost all housing is set up for a live-in, if that's what you want. There are a lot of people who want to work for expats, but turnover is pretty high and it can take a few tries to find the right person, especially if you need someone with good English.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Serviced apartments all have pretty nice gyms, and there are also a bunch of places around town. Prices are less than in the west. Personal trainers are popular; you can also learn lei thwei (kickboxing), tennis, swimming, golf, etc. During the cool season, sports are a major focus of the expat community; there are leagues for softball and volleyball, tennis tournaments, road races, and more.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are increasingly accepted at restaurants, hotels, and stores within malls; ATMs can be found but occasionally run out of money. No real reports of scams. Myanmar is rapidly moving ahead on this front. Some banks still think there are sanctions, which can be a nasty surprise when you go to an ATM, so clarify ahead of time with your bank.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Due to the country's long history of religious diversity, there options for Catholics, Christians, LDS, Muslims and Hindus (although somewhat limited in English). There is a synagogue but no rabbi so it's ad-hoc. If you're interested in Buddhism, this is the place for you, as the majority of the country is Buddhist and generally VERY devout. A lot of expats get into meditation.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's nice, but Myanmar people have low expectations of expats in this regard, and a lot of people speak a little English and try to help you out. There are tutors available. Keep in mind that there are hundreds of languages spoken in this country, so many from Myanmar don't even speak it as their first language.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be rough and very limited (and poorly maintained) sidewalks, no ramps, huge puddles. On the other hand, you could have a full-time driver to help out and people would likely do all they can to be of assistance.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is a fairly new local bus system that is very affordable but a bit hard to navigate. Taxis are thick like flies and lots of expats just rely on them and never get a car. You can find a driver you like and communicate by SMS. Grab (the Asian Uber) is big here. There are long-distance trains that are laughably slow and uncomfortable, but they get the job done. There is also a new water taxi service in Yangon that could be useful depending on where you live.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A lot of expats have SUVs but I think they are overkill unless you are actually going hiking all the time (and come on, are you?) Parking spaces are SUPER SMALL, so a compact car really helps. Japanese and Korean brands will be the easiest to get serviced. The roads are terrible and dings are frequent, so leave the BMW at home for this tour. Everyone is rocking a Toyota anyway.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It varies widely; the serviced apartments have it and just put everyone on wifi, while houses can be hit or miss. This is also rapidly changing so will probably not be as issue in a year or so.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I brought an unlocked phone and have a local SIM card and it is crazy cheap; I put maybe $7 a month on it and get lots of 4G data and calls. It's really simple. Facebook messenger, Viber and WhatsApp are all very, very popular here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
People are generally teaching, working in EFM jobs, teleworking, working for local NGOs (for little to no pay) or running their own serviced-based businesses. Local salary scales are very low. There is no bilateral work agreement with the US, but getting a "business visa" is actually very easy if you are not the spouse of a diplomat. People who want jobs seem to get something, but it might not be exactly what they pictured.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Lots of opportunities to help local groups, although you have to look for them. Be wary of volunteering with "orphanages". The UN warns against this, as it's creating a cottage industry of "orphans" to attract international visitors/donors and can be very exploitative.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It's really hot here, so a little more relaxed than other places. Women generally should have shoulders and knees covered, which can be a bit of a challenge. No shorts for women unless you're by the pool. Note that women from Myanmar are covered to wrists and ankles 100 percent of the time. There are relatively few formal events.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is the best thing about this post: it is crazy safe. You can leave your stuff lying around, let your kids wander into a different room of the restaurant, leave your car unlocked, and nothing is going to happen (it's a combination of cultural values and justified terror of the legal system). Stories abound of taxi drivers finding phones and tracking down the owner to give it back. There is virtually no street harassment of women; the only "harassment" I see is of our kids, who people are always touching, picking up, and giving them candy. Also, people will totally want to take selfies with foreigners. It's really, really a nice environment.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
This is the worst thing about this post: there are a few good doctors locally, but anything specialized requires an immediate departure for Bangkok or Singapore, and trauma care is really poor. Dengue, typhoid, TB, and rabies are concerns. There is a good dentist, but not much in the way of pediatrics or any treatment for a long-term condition. I feel like at any given time I know someone who is medically evacuated.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
This is a growing problem in Yangon. Trash burning is out of control (there was a giant landfill fire too last year), and as a result it has extremely poor air quality. There is very little public discussion, but more and more people have their own monitors. You'll want to get purifiers and limit outdoor activity on bad days; those with respiratory problems should do their research before coming here. With no government acknowledgement of the problem, it's only going to get worse as the city grows.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are all sorts of plants (you're in the jungle, literally) and mold. Nut and shellfish allergies would be challenging, since these are in everything, but you could definitely be gluten and dairy-free here!
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Not really, although the rainy season is loooonnng...
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Lovely tropical paradise November-March, humid inferno April and May, and tropical rain June-October. It doesn't rain all day, every day in rainy season, but it rains for at least some time every day, which makes planning things tricky. Expats flee the country for the summer, so there are very few kids' activities when school is out.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We have had a great experience with ISY, which has strong leadership and values. People also like the British School and the French School, so there are several good options. Take location into account, as traffic is awful and some combinations mean kids spend a lot of time on the bus.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure, but ISY seems to make an effort. None of the schools are huge, so the range of what they can offer is inherently limited.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, there are many and the market is growing. People seem satisfied with all the options, and annual cost ranges from about $4,000 on up (way up, if that's what you want). People also generally have nannies and no school takes kids below 18 months. There are after-school activities but no before- or after-care at the schools.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, through the schools, plus we have done soccer, swimming, piano, ballet, gymnastics and music on the local market. Other people we know do Scouts, circus arts, t-ball, Japanese, Spanish. You have to hunt but things are available. There are a lot of math/science enrichment classes targeted at Myanmar kids.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Definitely in the thousands; big enough to support some expat-oriented businesses, but small enough that you know someone at every party. Morale is pretty good; a lot of people are addicted to the easy lifestyle, the travel, and plentiful domestic help.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The usual house parties, restaurant scene, etc. The Goethe Institute and French Institute are both big here.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It seems okay for singles and couples. As a family we have enjoyed it; there are a lot of other families here, and we swim every day, so it can't be that bad! There is not a ton of cultural life here, nor are there a lot of easy road trips, so singles and couples tend to go to Bangkok quite a lot.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not sure but it's generally a pretty tolerant culture.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It's been more challenging than other places I have served, mainly because there is a vast gulf of wealth between expats and 99 percent of the locals (and the 1 percent of the locals are vastly more wealthy than the expats). The Rohingya situation makes most expats uncomfortable and people from Myanmar don't like to talk about it. You simply have to accept that people are incredibly nice to you and your children AND they think what's being done to the Rohingya is okay.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This is an incredibly diverse country, but the Bamar (and Buddhist) majority is definitely first among equals. Generally it's an impressive daily display of tolerance and pluralism. The most popular person in the country is a woman, and women hold many positions of respect, but there are still a lot of "male tasks." I drive, for example, and I could count on my fingers the number of other female drivers I see in a month (or maybe a year).
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Living somewhere that is globalized enough to have good coffee and wifi, but removed enough to where you can wander down roads that are full of monks collecting alms, and chickens, and outdoor barber shops, and strolling knife sharpeners, and all the other charming vestiges of a life that has been erased almost everywhere else in the world. Wandering the alleys of downtown Yangon. Inle Lake, Kalaw, Bagan and Ngapali Beach are all pretty much deserted and simply amazing. Domestic travel can be expensive but is worth it. It's a truly special place, flaws and all.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are not a lot of road trips because the roads are so bad, but Ngwe Saung beach and Bago are both worth doing once. Take the ferry to Dala and wander around, visit the insanely weird "National Races Village" park, feed the crocodiles at the farm in Thaketa, ride the swan boats in People's Park, visit the tomb of the last Mughal emperor, try unsuccessfully to stifle your bewildered laughter in the counter-narcotics museum, play with animals at the dog and cat cafe, watch the cultural show on Karaweik barge, go to the Saturday farmer's markets in Karaweik Park, go to Yangon Zay, have brunch at the Melia, have Friday drinks at the Sailing Club, visit the Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp; the list goes on!
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Ugggh, yes. People go crazy on jewelry (it's so nice!), teak furniture, laquer, rattan, and cloth; it's really deadly. Bogyoke market is incredible. Note that there is a ban on exporting new teak, but reclaimed teak furniture abounds.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
For Southeast Asia, it has a lot of trees and relatively little traffic (that is to say, quite a lot by any other standards). Unique way of life is still preserved, at least for a few more years. Good and cheap food, domestic help, great spas, amazingly friendly people, lots of interesting issues as it rapidly confronts a world it was closed off to for 50 years.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It was a shock how different it was from any place I've ever lived, but there's not much you can do to prepare for that. Give yourself six full months to feel like you actually live here. There are so few westerners that you always stick out.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, warts and all; it's been very special.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Desire to do anything quickly, desire to drive faster than 20 mph ever, all of your non-summer clothes because there is no space for them, anything that is not absolutely essential, because it will probably get covered with mold in your house or apartment.
4. But don't forget your:
Bug spray, sunscreen, patience, willing to try things a different way, patience, curiosity, and also patience.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown about Myanmar is an awesome introduction and will get you excited about moving here. Also, Burma Chronicles is a wonderful and quick graphic novel about being an expat here (potentially good for kids, too). There are a LOT of great books about Burma, such as The Glass Palace, Ms. Burma, The Narrow Road to the Deep North (helps understand the WWII experience, which as an American I wasn't really aware of), and the writings of Thant Myint U and Aung San Su Kyi. You could spend your whole tour just reading books about this country.
6. Do you have any other comments?
The Rakhine situation has really changed things here; the tourism boom that people planned for isn't happening, and it's hard to say what the next few years will bring here. It's still worth living here and seeing the place for yourself.
