Yangon, Myanmar Report of what it's like to live there - 07/19/10
Personal Experiences from Yangon, Myanmar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Previously lived in Eastern and Western Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's about 24 hours from the East Coast with the various connections. Breaking the trip up makes it a lot more manageable, especially with kids.
3. How long have you lived here?
A year as of 2010.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. government employment.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Expat houses are big, but with little closet space. Some have huge yards. One of the apartment complexes is not as nice as the others, but not that bad.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The more you buy from the local market, the cheaper your bill will be. The commissary can add up, but there are brands you can't find or special orders that are worth it. There are also Burmese "supermarkets" that are in between the local market and the commissary, and where I get most things.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Spray sunscreen is impossible to find. I have bug spray, but depending where you are you might want Deep Woods Off. I would have looked for 220 volt Uninterpretable Power Supplies. You can get them here, but all electronics in Asia seemed pre-owned to me.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Zero fast food places. There are some quicker cheaper Burmese restaurants, and expat themed places which are generally safer to eat at but more expensive. A 5-course lunch special at a great Italian place in town is $14, and a nice dinner might be US$20-30 a person. But even being careful, I've had food poisoning once or twice.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes mostly, during rainy season especially. We have nets on the beds and spray the house, but normally I have a few bites healing on me. The apartments are too high up to have any problem with them though.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The local mail is like putting a message in a bottle and hoping nobody steals anything. We use pouch for everything. I think most of the other expats have PO Boxes in Bangkok.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and available. Drivers cost US$80-120 a month and are the high end of the scale. Cooks, nannies, and home guards are common.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Post and the American Club have gyms, there are some Burmese gyms, but I don't know anyone who uses them.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are no ATM machines in the entire country. I used a credit card once in the last year at a big hotel, nobody else will take it other than online shopping.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I believe all the major ones are represented. I stopped going myself because it wasn't air conditioned and the family was too hot, but I think some of them have A/C.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
You can get Thai cable through the American Club, which has a good spread of English language stuff. AFN for the houses is good if you can tape it, lots of stuff is on in the wee hours.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Zero. I felt the language barrier more transiting through Europe on the way over. Most signs are in English and Burmese. That's not to say you won't have hilarious language barrier issues, but you can definitely get by and Burmese is extremely difficult to learn.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
All kinds. At least the taller buildings have elevators, but it's a bad post for that. There is no handicap access to anything; the roads are bad and winding with potholes. They flood when it rains.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
A taxi ride costs the equivalent of US$2-3. Buses are off-limits for security reasons and are dangerously overcrowded anyway. I'm not sure if they have trains, I can't remember seeing one.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Four-wheel drive is preferable, but you can get by in town without it. Your car will probably get beat up, so expect dings and scratches.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We have internet at home. It is very slow and only a little cheaper than comparable U.S. service. I almost never use it at home. Skype is unreliable but works sometimes. IVG is the bet way to go with calling card.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Burma has it's own network; you have to get a local SIM card. Permanent Sim cards cost $1,500 (yes, that's not a typo) but you can get disposables for 1-3 months for $25-$75.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is an expat vet and another coming. Local vets are little better than witch doctors. I saw a local vet do a c-section on a dog with no pain medication during/after surgery, but a heavy local sedative that probably killed one of the puppies. Never heard of kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some EFM jobs at Post, and at least one spouse is working part-time for expats only. There is no real ability to work on local economy, and the pay would be ridiculous. Some people sign on with schools or foreign companies and make enough for a decent life.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Burmese men and women wear what looks like a long skirt and sandals. Most people at work where slacks and short-sleeved shirts, either polo or button. There's a few that try long sleeves but,always have them rolled up. It's hot.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Other than bombings on buses, which I wouldn't take anyway, very little. The upside to a police state is that it's normally safe for expats. The locals are generally nice and know they will get in more trouble if they are caught committing crimes on expats. That being said, there are some petty theft problems to be expected in a poor country. But nothing violent. Bombings are usually a couple times a year and very small yield with few casualties reported, but there was a grenade attack during the water festival with 10 dead & 170 wounded.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There is an SOS Hospital and Post MED unit, but this is a bigger issue than I expected. You pretty much have to go to Bangkok for anything big or Singapore for anything urgent. The Burmese standard of care is ridiculous.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The overall air quality is good by Asia standards, as motorbikes are outlawed in Rangoon and there isn't a lot of heavy industry. They do burn trash countrywide at dusk and dawn, and lots of cars spew black diesel fumes. I was in someone's car once with the windows down and I think it took years off my life, but otherwise you don't notice it. Beats Beijing or Bangkok by miles.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's Florida plus 10 or 20 degrees and a little humidity. In my mind, there are really three seasons. From October-February is nice, about 80F and dry. From February-May/June is it really hot, we had 100 days of 100 degree heat. June-October is monsoon season and it rains all the time. You get used to it, and I actually looked forward to the rain this year as it cooled the houses down -- the A/C can only do so much.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are two international pre-schools and at least three international schools. They have their differences, but all of them seem decent.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I'm not sure if they do. In general, there are no U.S. style accommodations in the whole country.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a huge preschool called Network run by a British lady, and small French pre-school. Depends on your taste. There is a Rainbow daily day care place that is also good.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I know of softball, basketball, volleyball, ultimate frisbee, general exercise, and darts clubs. There are probably others.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Much smaller than average, due to limited diplomatic ties with most countries. There are some big foreign companies in town plus various teachers, so it seems big enough to me.
2. Morale among expats:
Ninety percent of people posted here seem to like it. Some people like to complain, and of course diplomats have it a bit cushier than say, teachers. For a 2-3 year tour it's fine, most of the grumpy people seem to have just been here too long.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
For somewhere that seems like it has "nothing to do" (in American type attractions), I've never been this busy, it seems every day there is a club, sport, or party event to go to and it can get overwhelming.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's always called a "good family post" but singles seem to be dating expats/locals without problem.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are gay clubs in town, they don't seem exactly open to it, and I think there is a law against, but I don't think it's enforced. There is alot of male platonic affection in public that seems odd by U.S. standards.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. There are many ethnic groups that have rivalries (with one mainly being in power), but the biggest issue I've seen involves the large Burmese population of Indian descent. The Burmese Indians are usually much darker and I've watched racism between both groups directed at the other. They seem to love expats and may politely stare, especially if you're blonde. I've seen 10-15 women stop shopping for 10 minutes to stare at a blonde child.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
It's an easy life. A lot like going back in time in many ways, but that has its charms. I'd say 90% of those posted here like it. The non-diplomats have less comforts and sometimes stay too long and get grumpier.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In Rangoon I've seen Myanmar Brewery, Monkey Park, Asia Point Bowling. Shwedagon Pagoda is spectacular, but I have still only seen it from afar. There are two beaches in country, that are worth returning to when you get cabin fever. Inle Lake and Bagan are both unique and worth seeing, Mandalay is not that much different than Rangoon and the new capital at Nay Pyi Taw is nothing special.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Jewelry and teak wood items.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's very cheap. There is no American stores/restaurants, but plenty of stuff to spend money on. Good restaurants and spas and clubs. Diplomats can buy for personal use, jewelry, teak, etc. You can get pretty much anything you want on the local market, if in less variety. There are gourmet bakers, cheese, ice cream, yogurt, etc.
11. Can you save money?
Definitely, the only real threat is regional travel and shopping on-line. Living in town with expat lifestyle is definitely cheaper than normal lifestyle in U.S.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. I think for two years it'll be a good tour. I'm not in a hurry to leave, but three years might have been too long -- you are definitely more cut off from American culture than in many other countries.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Reliance on technology and always being in touch with the world with internet, Blackberries, Iphones/Pads/Pods, etc. It's like being in the past, but you get used to it pretty quick.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and adventure. The grumpiest people want it to be like the U.S. You have to just roll with the punches sometimes, you're not back home and there's plenty of positive to focus on.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Burma VJ: Reporting from a Closed Country
and Beyond Rangoon
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Finding George Orwell in Burma
.
6. Do you have any other comments?
It's a hardship post, but it might be the easiest one in the world.
