Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/01/12
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Bruxelles, Lotan (Israel), Harare, Santo Domingo, Mosul (Iraq), Tunis, Beirut.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Tucson, about 30 hours with connections in Doha, Dubai, Kuwait, and then again in Washington, New York, or Houston.
3. How long have you lived here?
Summer 2010 to Summer 2011.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
U.S. Embassy either has houses and duplexes in the nice sectors, or lives in confining apartments on the compound. Off-compound, commutes range from 15-30 minutes depending on if your agency puts you in the boonies. Some civilian personnel are choosing to share these immense houses. The military does get a choice, with 3-6 people of similar rank together.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most everything is available at a few select stores catering to expats. Imported goods are 5-20% more than in the US. Local or regional groceries and household supplies are 20-85% cheaper than the U.S. with somewhat comparable quality.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Certain exotic cooking supplies (mainly for Mexican and Thai food).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A variety of Western (McDs, KFC, Hardees, Pizza Hut) and local. The Western places are at or just under U.S. prices, while the amazing local food is cheap.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Tons of restaurants and I never had a problem getting veggie food. Take note, the main way Pakistanis differentiate themselves gastronomically from Indian is the amount of beef, goat, and lamb they put in traditional South Asian dishes. But this is a service economy, and you can often get what you want, even off-menu.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Typical sub-tropical problems. Ants and mosquitoes mainly. I was able to deal with the ants simply by keeping a clean house (putting my cat's food in a bowl on a saucer with water). The mosquitoes are annoying and can carry dengue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I used the APO. I won't trust PakPost.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
My bearer cost $120/mon (and I gave him a $250 bonus when I left). He did everything, cleaned, mended, took my car for repairs, and cooked amazing Kashmiri food.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Expats mainly use embassy gyms, but there's several private gyms, and even a rock climbing wall.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are only useful for select shops for large purchases (rugs, plane tickets, safaris, etc). ATMs abound and I never had a problem using USAA and Bank of America to get cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, Christian, and only on the diplomatic enclave.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Both, $5/mon for cable.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I would have strongly preferred to have Urdu or Pashtoo, but only can float along with the elites speaking only English. They're losing they're English though.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
One of the best cities in South Asia, but that's not saying much.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Radio taxis are reasonable and reliable. Trains are an experience, but USG personnel are not allowed to take any public transport (including taxis).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I bought locally and was glad I did. My 1993 Nissan Pulsar blended in with local traffic, was super cheap to fix, and got me around. I strongly suggest Japanese if you're shipping a car. The only thing a car really needs is A/C for the humid and punishing summer heat.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
US$55/month for an optical connection that averaged 1 mb during my usage time.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one, they're cheap, even to call the U.S.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Nope.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Excellent and reasonable prices.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yep, all sorts of international organizations are running around trying to "help" Pakistan.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suit and tie, otherwise conservative Western casual. Women and men need to cover below the knees.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Fear, I guess. There's a real siege mentality that the Pakistani government, especially the military, like to encourage. It keeps Westerners from getting out and exploring the country. The violence is generally political, and terrorists did have some terrible successes, but you're more likely to get mugged or killed in Rio or Johannesburg.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Some dengue and stomach bugs.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
There's some haze that occasionally drifts in from Rawalpindi, but it's generally the best in the region.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Lovely springs and falls. The summer heat can be brutal, and I'm from southern Arizona. The winters are actually chilly, made worse by the poor and ostentatious architecture which makes houses drafty and hard to heat.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
This used to be our hook into Pakistani society. Many of the non-military elites went to international schools. From my French and Japanese colleagues (who are allowed to have children), I hear standards have slipped since the US and UK pulled children out.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Unknown.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Again, excellent, but no kids for the foreseeable future.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but without out Americans kids at post, I don't know what they are. A French friend has his son in karate.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge in the government and hanger-on sector.
2. Morale among expats:
Depends on how freaked out the individual was. High for those with local friends and diverse interests. Low if work was the only thing.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
House parties and restaurants.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It was the family spot for South Asia hands and it's still a great place to have a family. Due to the security overreaction, it's now a young, single (or situationally single) post with a strong, though repetitive, party scene. My wife lived elsewhere, but I still had a great time. I would have extended if the security office had let her come.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There's a strong G/L scene, even among the Western-educated elites. Everyone gets married and has kids, but that doesn't stop people from having affairs. Unfortunately for homosexuals, that seems to be the only scene. Again, there's a large float of single/situationally single expats...
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
You'll hear about the hatred and violence. And it's there. Pakistan is more of an army with a country, than a coherent nation where patriotic identity trumps tribal, feudal, regional, ethnic, or linguistic identity. Women are not treated well here and the darker the skin tone the more the racism comes out. But when one breaks past surface identities, it’s a whole new story.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The people and lifetime friends. Seeing Everest from the cockpit of a 737. The amazing house parties. Going to a wedding in Karachi done jingle-bus style.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Parties, hiking, sports, cultural sites, trekking. But most Americans seems to work, work, work.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Anything you want.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Islamabad is truly the garden spot of South Asia. It is built into the Margalla Hills which are one of the foothills of the Himalayas. The hiking is amazing in the city. One can be very active with sports clubs for squash (some of the best instructors in the world on the cheap), tennis, football, and golf. The Pakistani people (vice the government) are amazing -- warm, educated, and, even when religiously conservative, open and hospitable. When we went horseback riding in Nathia Gali, we ran into a Pashtun imam with a dozen of his students on holiday. They invited us (two men and a women plus our police escort and intelligence minder) to break bread with them. The trekking in the north is among the best the world. You can get together with expats, rent a 737 and do a air "safari" of Mount Everest. Plus, it all happens (for most expats) with amazing "danger" bonuses so one can save money hand over fist.
11. Can you save money?
Triple up.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Totally. It was loads of fun.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Prejudices and fears. Skimpy clothing (except for house parties where people dress dooown).
3. But don't forget your:
Open mind, poker chips, booze.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Don't panic. Don't be afraid. Get to know Pakistanis.
