Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 12/19/13
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Tucson, Arizona; about 30 hours with connections in Doha, Dubai, or Kuwait, and then again in Washington, New York, or Houston. AZ to Pakistan takes three calendar days!
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The U.S. Embassy provides some houses and duplexes in the good sectors (E, F & G). Some people live in apartments on the compound, depending on their job. Off-compound commutes range from 15 to 30 minutes depending on which sector you live in. G6 is the closest followed by F6 and the bigger the number the further you are (cf. Google Map for a very detailed map). Some people share houses, not by choice but because GSO housing has decided it and there is a divider (so it is not like a roommate, you have privacy). The only problem could be the size of your kitchen if you are in the upper part (and it was built after); or if you are in the lower part and it looks like a basement with little light.
Electricity can be sketchy: our phone line was hooked with bare wire on the street (anybody could have easily cut the supply), when we asked for repair, it was "protected" by a rolled-up plastic bag. The new Embassy features apartments for all on compound for 2017?
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most everything is available at a few select stores catering to expats. Cf. Metro (I10) like Costco, Koshar Market (F6/3) where you can find decent meat, Rana Market (F7/2) where you can get sushi-grade fish. Imported goods are 5-20% more than in the U.S. Local goods are 20-80% cheaper than in the U.S., with somewhat comparable quality. One dollar is almost 100 rupees so you just remove 2 zeros and the prices are easy to understand.
They would not label their food organic but most of it probably is.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
? Exotic cooking supplies (mainly for Mexican and Thai food) if you must. We felt we found everything we needed..
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A variety of fast food restaurants: McDonald's, KFC, Hardees (Carl's Junior), Pizza Hut and local street food. The Western places are at U.S. prices or more, while the local food is cheap. Many good real restaurants are about half the price as in the U.S. for the same quality. On the Margalla hill try Montana (instead of Monal), in Saidpur, try Andaaz (best Pakistani food in the country - same restaurant in Lahore) on top of Polo Lounge (Western food), in the city House of Bombay for good Indian food, safe sushi at the Marriott, etc. Many good restaurants to choose from.
In some restaurants you may bring your wine bottle and they either ignore it (example at the Polo Lounge we placed it on the floor but they provided us with wine glasses) or they pour it in a tea pot. So you can bring your bottle and ask politely what is allowed (except at Monal where they confiscate it!).
At the Embassy while some people only go to Club or Cafeteria, we tried every option available and liked it: the LES cafeteria (Pakistani food only), the TDY rotisserie (delicious grilles chicken or pizza), Club 21 (the French restaurant in front of the U.S. Embassy, 3-course meal under US$10), Cordon Rouge (another French restaurant, a bit further but only 10-minute walk by the Consular door). There is also a woman catering good sandwiches and salads.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes in the fall when you don't need A/C anymore. Ants are tiny and will leave if you are scrupulous about cleaning.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We used the APO from the Embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I had read that you needed a bearer and a cook and a maid, etc. The good news is that it is not necessary: one person can do everything. They won't be perfect at everything but much more reliable because then you can employ them "full time" - If full time is 6 hours, they'll probably do another full time somewhere else. We liked having someone every day for our dog and to have a warm meal for dinner. We paid US$200/month all the time, even when absent and a month bonus upon departure.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Expats mainly use their embassy facilities; the French Club 21 (in front of the U.S. Embassy) has a small club with pool; and there are several quality private gym clubs. Why pay for a private club when iT's free at the Embassy? In case of the French club, to avoid seeing the same people and increase chances to meet other people, in the case of the private club: because it is close to home and you can walk there from home at different hours than around the working hours. People work out a lot in the U.S. Embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are only useful for some shops for large purchases like rugs or jewelry. ATMs abound in the city but for safety, we usually use the Embassy ATMs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Christian, Latter Saints Day, on the diplomatic enclave.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everybody around you speaks English but it's always good to have some Urdu, especially if you shop outside the commissary and visit outside Islamabad.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
During my tour there was handicapped people at post, not easy but feasible. Most of the time you have to take a car from place to place anyway even if you can walk.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
U.S.G. personnel is not allowed to take any public transport, including taxis. In Islamabad you can rent cars.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Local people are terrible drivers. For one year, we didn't bring our car at all (it may take up to 6 months to get it). Embassy shuttles are free and safe. They also take you shopping with little planning. For tourism outside the city, we just rented a car the day or weekend we needed a car. Some people rented a car long term. Many people bought their car from a Japanese website that sells cars for very cheap.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We requested the PTCL broadband ADSL connection in June 2012. We opted for the 8 Mb connection. When tested against the PTCL server with speedtest.net, we achieved 8 Mb. However, when tested against the Wi-tribe server in Islamabad, or any other server anywhere in the world, it doesn't even reach 1 Mb! So we changed to Nayatel but it's far from perfect.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Nothing special.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many international organizations.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At the chancery, like in DC for most people, at USAID, local wear is welcome, in the street covered enough. Islamabad is not too strict (you can show elbows and knees) but more coverage is needed in the other cities.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is an armed guard 24/7 in your yard and barbed wire everywhere. There is excitement almost every Friday after prayer, many demonstrations which can turn violent / deadly (more in Karachi than in Islamabad). Ashura (9th & 10th Moharrum – usually around November) is deadly for shias. I left in June 2013, we had lots of freedom then but I've heard that security has tightened and embassy personnel have now many more restrictions.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Nothing specific. Everybody gets the "turista"at some point or another. Good dentist work cost almost as much as in the U.S. (the recommended dentists are husband and wife, educated in Britain).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally good.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Great temperatures in spring and fall. The summer temperatures reach 40-45 degrees Celsius (well over 100F) for 2 months. The winters are actually chilly, with a second rainy season around December.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
U.S.G. personnel is not allowed to bring children.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
U.S.G. personnel is not allowed to bring children.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge: massive U.S. Embassy and many other expats from other embassies, international organizations and private companies.
We had good morale because we were together (FSO + EFM). It is tough for those with families in a different country, especially when the time difference is large. Lots of cliques. People that are there for their 2nd or 3rd year don't make any effort to integrate new people (not even say hello in the corridors). Recurring question: how long are you here for - as in, why make the effort if it is only for one year?
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
House or embassies parties and restaurants.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is a great city for all. Other expats have their children at post and house help is so inexpensive that it would be practical to have a young family. As a couple there are many things to do. Because spouses are not allowed in country without a job at the Embassy, many people are "made" single - not to worry: there are parties all the time and everywhere (well maybe someone will worry now!). Unfortunately for the older crowd, most parties in the Enclave (by Brits, Canadian, Australian and French in general) are advertised at 8pm to really start vaguely at 11pm and really at midnight.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not a problem at the Embassy.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Conservative Sunnis want to exterminate Shias (20% of the population) but they are a minority; yet the Parliament decided that Ahmadis were not Muslims (which they claim to be) and erased the word "muslim" from the tomb of their only Nobel Prize because he was Ahmadi. On the Gender front, Pakistan rated 3rd to last on the gender index in 2012. Women are still killed in the name of honor (even if they are innocent, just to settle a dispute between men over land for example) and are burned by acid thrown at their face (sometimes by their own family).
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Great hiking and shopping, custom-made everything, 5 hours direct flight to Bangkok.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Shopping, hiking, sports, cultural sites (at least 5 are OK by security standards: Taxila, Rohtas, Khewra, etc.), trekking, parties. Take long weekends in Thailand (5h-plane) or Dubai (3h-plane but bland to my taste). Yet, most Americans work frantically here, I've never seen this in any other Embassy (iT's my 4th).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Custom-made everything: furniture made from old carved doors and windows, shirts, cashmere coats, Western copies or local clothing, shoes, boots, jewelry. You can also buy brass and copper, gemstones, carpets, pottery, shawls and scarves, paintings, etc.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Islamabad is one of the nicest cities in South Asia: very green and relatively clean with almost no traffic. It is built into the Margalla Hills which are at the foothill of the Himalayas. The hiking is amazing in the city, you can climb to the top in 1h30 and there are good restaurants at the top. There are two golf courses; amateurs told me they like the one in Rawalpindi better than the one in Islamabad. There is a nice horseback riding club on the road to Murree, in Islamabad. The Embassy has a large swimming pool, usually heated up in winter, a great gym club with some yoga or abs classes depending on who is at post. There are several tennis courts with teachers under US$10/hour; basketball, volley ball, etc. Household help is cheap.
You can purchase antique / wood furniture, gemstones, custom-made clothes & shoes, Islamabad is ideal for shopping and if you like the style between shopping and travelling, you won't save any money!
10. Can you save money?
It depends! If you like Pakistani furniture and carpets and like to travel far for R&R, it can add up easily.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Under the same conditions we had until June 2013 yes - but with the new restrictions (cannot hike anymore), I am not so sure.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Unplanned moves: you need to plan everything you do, whether you need an embassy car or an RSO authorization or a GOP authorization. It affects your private life but also your work life since some trips have to be planned 2 to 3 months in advance. Very tiring.
Desire to find bacon or alcohol outside the Commissary.
3. But don't forget your:
Patience.
4. Do you have any other comments?
Without lowering your sense of awareness, in general situations people are friendly and not threatening. Once you know some locals and they invite you for a meal, you really feel at home.
