Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/11/15
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Brazil. Flying there from Islamabad took about 20-25 hours, sometimes longer depending on connections. Major regional hubs are Dubai (Emirates), Doha (Qatar Airways), and Istanbul (Turkish) - all excellent airports.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years (2011-2014).
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government (Brazilian Embassy).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Unless you have to live in a compound (which I would not recommend at all!), expect HUGE houses with plenty of room. Pakistani families are often large (4 to 6 children per couple is still the norm, sometimes more), which explains why houses tend to be very spacious. Almost all expats live in a compact area (E-6, F-6, F-7 or F-8 - yes, neighborhoods are named after codes here) with a commute time of 10 minutes or less, usually, as the city is fairly small and has little traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Almost all basic items can be found for good prices. For international brands, the stores at Kohsar market are a sure bet. Some people say electronics are expensive in Pakistan, but that's simply not true - there are plenty of vendors who import everything from large TVs to new iPhones straight from Dubai and somehow pay no taxes.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Bring everything you need to be entertained at home - movies (there is no Netflix in Pakistan!), books (even though there are decent bookstores in town - Saeed bookbank is the best), video games, whatever.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are about 8 to10 good restaurants in town, including major hotels (Serena and Marriott), with a reasonable variety (Indo-Pak, Italian, Chinese, Lebanese), and very low prices - you'll seldom pay more than US$15 for a delectable dinner in a top restaurant. But alcohol is never sold, except at the Marriott (in both the Chinese restaurant and a hidden bar in the basement) and at the occasional clandestine Chinese joint. So you have to bring your own booze and hope they'll let you have it! You will also find McDonald's and a very spicy.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not much, except for the occasional flies. Islamabad is outside of malaria territory, unlike Karachi.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Regular mail is available, but it is slow and not always reliable. Use your embassy/NGO/UN mailing service if you can.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
VERY available and VERY cheap - you can still live like a Rajah in Pakistan for little money, if that's your fancy. There are countless drivers, cooks, nannies, butlers, gardeners, etc. willing to work for expats for US$ 200-300 a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Surprisingly, there are plenty. The most refined (featuring a pool (something very rare in Pakistan) is at Serena Hotel (about US$100 a month). But for the best workouts and personal trainers go to Metafitnosis. it is more expensive, maybe US$ 300 a month, but it is worth it.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's a cash economy, so you'll visit ATMs all the time. They're widely available, but about 40% of the time they're out of order. The most reliable ATM in town is outside the main Barclays agency. Only large hotels and a few elite restaurants take credit cards.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Nothing. All Pakistanis from middle and upper classes speak English fluently, as it's also an official language. Nevertheless, knowing a w phrases of urdu will win you some appreciation.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Elevators are rare, except in the big hotels and some government buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains, no subway, no tuk-tuks (unlike the rest of South Asia), and very few taxis and buses. Shared mini-trucks are about the only means of public transport, and although they they are affordable, thy are unsafe. You really need a car in Islamabad. If you need a driver, hiring one is cheap (about US$ 200 to 300 a month).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Almost everyone in Pakistan opts for Japanese cars - a Toyota if you're well-off, a Suzuki if you're not. Don't bother bringing other brands (particularly expensive German cars) to Pakistan, as they'll suffer from the pot-holed roads, and replacement parts will be very hard to find. An SUV is recommended but not essential. Unless you're planning to drive to isolated areas in the countryside, a basic Corolla will do the job well.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but beware of frequent electricity cuts ("load-shedding") that can last 4-8 hours a day - you'll really need a generator at home. About US$ 150 a month for the fastest internet packages.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you need to make urgent calls, get two lines from different providers. Expect your cell phone to be bugged or tapped by the intelligence agencies (yes, really), so avoid discussing sensitive topics.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Pets are not common (some Muslims consider dogs filthy), but good vets are available. Not sure about quarantine.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not much, unless you're a free-lance journalist/photographer who could work for a newspaper abroad. NGOs may also hire expats, but you normally must apply before coming to Pakistan.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty at local and international NGOs and even UN Volunteers, but plan everything way in advance, as Pakistani visas can take a long time to arrive.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative. No shorts in public, even for men. Women don't need to cover their hair but should avoid tight clothes and always cover their arms and legs. But you'lll find Pakistani tunics (shalwar kameezes) are extremely comfortable, so get yourself a few!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Of course there are, but not as much as you would think. Police/military checkpoints and "tesco" barriers will intimidate you at first, but Islamabad is actually far safer than the rest of Pakistan. Terrorist attacks were frequent in 2007-2009, but they're rare these days in the capital. Violent political demonstrations, usually 3-4 times a year, are a more real concern and will sometimes lead to embassy lockdowns. On the other hand, common street crimes are very rare.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are not many health concerns: Islamabad has no malaria (unlike southern Pakistan, i.e., Sindh and Balochistan) and no polio (unlike Peshawar), HIV/AIDS is rare (not that you'd have many opportunities to catch it anyway!) and the air is clean. There are good physicians and dentists as well as some decent hospitals, Shifa being the best. But if you need something really complicated, say a heart surgery, you should fly to Dubai.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Usually very good, as there is little pollution in Islamabad But it could be a bit dusty during dry season.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Unless you spend your whole life eating Indo-Pak food, you WILL get food poisoning/diarrhea in your first months in Pakistan - it's a fact of life. But your body will likely adapt. Almost all food is spicy, so if you want something mild, it's safer to eat at home or go to a western restaurant. Other than that, there are not many issues.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Get ready for extreme weather with FIVE very different seasons, not just four. Chilly winters until February (0-10 degrees Celsius - not that cold, but house heating was usually a problem due to gas load-shedding), then a very pleasant spring on March-April, then an absurdly hot and dry early summer between May and June (temperature often reaches 45 celsius (113 Fahrenheit!), then a slightly less hot (but very humid) monsoon season during July and August (strong rains nearly every day), then a refreshingly mild fall.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Had no experience with that, but I know international schools are easily available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large. Morale varies, but it is usually good. People come to Pakistan for a reason, and they're often ready to face the daily challenges of living here. Still, try to reach out beyond the expat community, and you'll find very friendly, hospitable and caring Pakistanis.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Simple things only. Hosting dinners or house parties, meeting friends for picnics, hiking in the Margallas, arranging daytrips to nearby valleys, and so on. Remember: zero cinemas, theaters, operas, etc. in town.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It really depends. It's a bit harder for bachelors, as Islamabad can be very isolating and there are really few places and occasions to meet other singles. For couples (80-90% of expats here) it's far easier, as the mutual support you'll enjoy will be very helpful. Families with little children (if your embassy has no such restriction) tend to love Islamabad, as the city is generally calm and has many green areas. But if you have a teenage child, he or she will definitely be bored to death here!
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Obviously it's a huge taboo in public, but it is not impossible for them to have fun. There is a lively (clandestine) LGBT community, with Pakistanis and expats.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Religion is a major issue in Pakistan. The worst mistake you could possibly make in this country would be to publicly disrespect/offend Islam, Mohammed or the Quran in any way. Christians are widely respected. Jews are usually tolerated, but avoid raising the issue of Israel/Palestine if you're a staunch zionist). There are lots of other religions, but atheists are definitely NOT welcome in most environments. So if you have no belief, as was my case, it's safer to keep this to yourself. Also, the Sunni majority doesn't always see eye to eye with the Shia minority.
In some conservative areas (but not among Pakistanis who usually interact with expats), women tend to be treated with less respect than men, but in Islamabad the gender prejudice is not that strong. It's perfectly safe for a woman to walk alone in public; but it may be uncomfortable, since 90% of people on the streets are men. Women tend to stay at home. There are no big problems with racism.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting the Northern Areas (Gilgit-Baltistan) via the Karakoram Highway all the way to the Chinese border, near the Himalayas - this is a definite must-do when in Pakistan. Lahore was also interesting.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Sadly, there are few cultural activities available in Islamabad except for the occasional music concert; look for the Kuch Khaas center and its Lime Tree cafe, as well as occasional PNCA or embassy events. There are no cinemas, theaters, or operas in the city proper. But if you go to Rawalpindi or Bahria Town, you'll find modern cinema complexes.
Popular weekend activities include climbing/hiking in the Margalla hills, exploring inside the city itself, or taking day trips to the Murree resort, the Taxila ruins/museum, and the Khanpur lake. The wonderfully beautiful Kaghan valley is about 5-6 hours north, and Lahore can also be visited on weekends (5 hours driving or a 1-hour flight).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets and traditional wooden furniture (look for a store named PakTurk). It's all dirt-cheap and beautiful.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Political/diplomatic relevance, rich culture, unique experience, saving money.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, a lot. It's one of the cheapest countries on earth, even if Islamabad is more expensive than other Pakistani cities.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, definitely. There was some hardship at times, but I loved living there.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Prejudices! And don't bring your car unless it's a Toyota, Honda or Suzuki; spare parts won't be available.
3. But don't forget your:
Good humor, patience and sense of adventure, as well as plenty of books and films to keep you entertained, particularly if you're single. Also, remember to plan your alcohol needs in advance - Peter Justesen and other duty free stores will be needed.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The best introduction to the country is "Pakistan: a Hard Country" (Anatol Lieven).
