Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/12/16
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have also lived in Brazil, India and the United Kingdom.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Travel back to the east coast of the US can take up to 30 hours, with stopovers in the Gulf or Turkey. Islamabad is not a particularly well-connected capitol and US Embassy employees are not allowed to transit other Pakistani cities to leave, which is too bad as Lahore and Karachi have better flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
Posted 1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
If you live in the city it's fantastic. Large houses many of which have decent outdoor space as well. You're also never more than 5 minutes from most of your friends and colleagues and at most a 15-minute commute from the embassy. I was told they were moving toward group housing but most people have their own home. Some people have also opted to live on compound which severely limits your social life. While the commute can't be beat, I don't know why anyone would volunteer to live in a box when there are other options. The embassy is building more on-compound housing and I would think twice about coming here if I did not have the option to live in the city proper.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get most things here, though you will pay more for imported/specialty items, except pork which can be sporadically found at the commissary. Don't be the bacon hog.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Amazon comes so fast that it's better to get here and see what you're actually lacking. You will probably be surprised by what is available.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are mobile food ordering apps (Pakistani version of seamless) that will bring a plethora of restaurants to your doorstep, a couple that started a great Thai delivery service (the wife is Thai and regularly travels home for ingredients). There are a number of restaurants in Islamabad and new ones opening all the time.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
You might get monsoon bugs which are a nuisance but there's really nothing to be done for it.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch is very fast.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Rates vary depending on how often you'd like them to come and what duties you want to include but most pay around 70-100 USD per month. I would really suggest getting household help even if you are by yourself. Having someone to do the grocery shopping for you when you go on lockdown is more than worth it. Many also cook really well.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a decent gym at the U.S. embassy which was enough for me but there are other pricier options around town. Many non-U.S. diplomats and U.N. employees also take advantage of personal trainers or the gym at the Serena Hotel. Membership at the Serena is more expensive than most U.S. gyms but you can also get a day pass which allow you access to the gym, saunas and pool and is a nice 'mini-break.'
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's definitely a cash economy. There are ATM's at the embassy but I also had no problems using ATM's around town. Only two banks ATM's regularly took my American card but they had a lot of machines, so you just have to learn which will accept yours. Al Falah is a good bet.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most of the Pakistanis you will be interacting with on a daily basis are native- or near-native English speakers and English is one of the official languages. I had Urdu before coming and it helped to be able to speak with my guards and a few phrases go a long way to show respect but you won't be using it often.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
U.S. mission personnel are not allowed to take any kind of public transport but other expats sometimes take taxis and these are usually on-time.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
For U.S. mission personnel, don't bring a car to post unless you are staying two years. You can easily rent a car for $250 a month. The company addresses any issues very quickly and will swap you out with a replacement car if the work is going to take longer.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Readily available and set-up is relatively quick.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I would bring an unlocked smart phone if your mission won't be assigning you one.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Good vets are harder to find in Pakistan than other places I've lived. It's a good idea to bring a local with you who can help translate.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
EFM's at the U.S. embassy cannot come unless they have a job at the mission. There are some really interesting and substantive EFM jobs; more than I have seen at many posts. However, it was taking an incredibly long time for DS to process security clearances and if the EFM will be in their position less than 10 months, they aren't allowed to come. Unfortunately this meant that some people had unexpectedly unaccompanied tours. The time limit is less of a concern if you are coming for two years.
Can't really speak to options for expat spouses outside of the US mission.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Limited due to security.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual at work. If you are meeting outside contacts, depending on who they are, women may want to have their legs covered. While out and about, you'll want to cover your legs and shoulders (this is for men and women). Women may also want to avoid tight clothing to limit scrutiny/stares.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
You should be aware of your surroundings as you would anywhere. Islamabad itself is very calm but the armed guards at many houses and the checkpoints throughout the city will remind you that things can and do happen occasionally. That said, I never felt unsafe while in Pakistan.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care at the embassy is good, though you will be medically evacuated for anything serious. Dental care is good and very affordable.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is colder than I expected and the houses aren't well insulated. U.S. residences come with space heaters, but don't leave all your winter clothes in storage.
Summer can get very hot but honestly, no worse than Washington D.C. in August. You won't be outside that much anyway.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Great morale among expats! The expat community is large, vibrant, and one of the best things about living in Islamabad. There are a number of international missions and representation from what seems like all of the UN agencies. There are also a number of NGO workers.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The French, British, Canadian and Australian clubs often host regular events If you want to be social there is a nearly non-stop rotation of parties and dinner parties with expats and Pakistanis who have studied and/or lived abroad. If you're at the U.S. Mission, your social life will be vastly improved if you break out of the American bubble.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for singles. The U.S. mission is unaccompanied so you won't see the children-centric events that many posts have. There are a number of people who are "geographically single" so do with that what you will...
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is actually a surprisingly (or not so surprisingly) vibrant gay (male) scene in Islamabad within expat and Pakistani elite circles. However everything is under wraps in public.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Myriad, but you will face few of these directly as a foreigner. Westerners are generally assumed to be Christian and if you are a non-believer or unaffiliated, it's generally best to keep that to yourself except among friends.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
My portfolio was very rewarding. More junior officers have the opportunity to get great experience and responsibility in Islamabad. I also loved the expat community. Non U.S. mission people can also do easy road and weekend trips.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Gilgit-Baltistan and the northern areas are probably on the top of every American's wish list for when/if security restrictions ease. Those who are able to should definitely go.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes. You will likely come back with lots of rugs, handmade furniture and jewelry. Don't go overboard on the Pakistani clothes, you'll get back and never wear most of them again.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Great quality of life.
Very low cost of living.
Easy flights to Thailand for a weekend away.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How much I would have enjoyed it so that I would have extended my tour.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
As long as I didn't have to live on compound and we are still able to self-drive, I'd move here again easily.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
While Pakistan is a Muslim republic, don't come with expectations that this is the Middle East. South Asia has its own character and history and Pakistan itself is diverse and complicated.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and patience--not Pakistan specific, just always good to have.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Magnificent Delusions (especially for Americans)
How to Get Filthy Rich in Rising Asia
In Other Rooms, Other Wonders
A Case of Exploding Mangoes
The Wandering Falcon (especially for people working on KP/FATA)
