Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 01/16/10
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Jalalabad, Kabul, Kathmandu, Jerusalem
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC is the home base. The trip is about 24 hours. DC to Doha (15 hours), Doha to Islamabad (4 hours) plus a layover.
3. How long have you lived here?
8 months so far
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is basically a private mini-mansion. There are no apartments in Islamabad that are safe, so everyone gets their own massive house. Mine is a 5 bedroom, 6 bathroom monstrosity with 3 fountains and a rooftop terrace that has views of Margalla Hills. There are two types of houses:older with massive lawns, or newer super modern structures that are packed in next to another house. But like most things in developing countries, something can look nice on the outside while below the surface it's a nightmare. Everyone has water problems, and with the growing embassy staff the FSNs in Facilities Management just can't keep up. They are trying to hire new people, but it takes forever. This is important because when something in your house falls apart (and it will) you have to leave work to be home to watch the contractor do work on your house, or have domestic help there to watch the contractor. If you can't, the contractor can't go to your house, per the RSO.But if you can get over the annoyances, it's probably the best housing you will ever have in the Foreign Service.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is available in Islamabad. Kohsar market caters to expats and has most of the items available at the Embassy commissary for similar (if not cheaper) prices, and the dairy isn't expired. There is also the French Walmart-like store "Metro" on the outskirts of town, and you can get everything really cheap there--from flat-screen TVs to frozen chicken.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I shipped an elliptical and a treadmill so I could have a personal gym at my house, and I'm really glad I did. Exercise equipment available at METRO isn't great, and it's expensive. Other items: Black beans, Herbs de provonce, Wheat-Thins. Everything else you can pretty much get in town.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are actually a lot of really good restaurants in Islamabad ranging from Chinese to French. The higher end restaurants are around $12-$20/person. Some allow you to bring in wine to have with lunch or dinner, but only a few sell alcohol. The food can taste really, really good, but I often get some bacterial infection from eating out a lot. Part of living in Pakistan.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
My house has an ant problem, others have roaches. Mosquitoes are also plentiful.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO/Pouch
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I have a mother-son team clean my massive house 3 times/week and cook for me, and I pay them $100/month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are quite a few. The Serena Hotel probably has the nicest in town, but there are others available.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are available throughout town and are fine. Most diplomats use the ATM in the Diplomatic Enclave or at the US Embassy. Most of the stores in F6 and F7 markets accept Visa/MC (rug stores, antiques, DVD stores, clothing, etc.).Some people are hesitant to use their credit cards, but I've had no problem at all (except that AMEX and Visa will shut down my card because it's a Pakistan charge--even though I've told them I live there!).
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, there are multiple English language papers and TV stations available.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Everyone in government and the shops speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes because the houses are mostly multi-story and none have elevators. US Embassy staff are not allowed to walk on the streets, but we can shop and the markets are not designed for anyone with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are local taxis and public mini-busses, but Embassy staff is not allowed to take them. My NGO friends do and say they are fine, and really cheap. It's about $3 to go anywhere in town in a taxi.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
SUVs are popular, but you don't want anything flashy. There are white Toyota Corollas everywhere, and the Embassy will help you import one for about $5000.If you want to go to the mountains on the weekends, SUVs are better because the roads get snowed in during the winter. A lot of expats just sell their cars when they leave post, so during the summer it's usually easy to pick up a used car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Wealthy Pakistan is very tech savvy.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Mobilink has good coverage. It's super cheap to call the US.About $.02/minute
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not in the local economy per se, but with NGOs there are.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pakistani women wear salwar kameez or at least kurtas that go to mid-thigh. In the summer it's fine to wear sleeveless kurtas. At the Embassy, some women dress really western (and in my opinion, inappropriate).To go to markets, women should be a bit more covered. But you don't need to wear a scarf in Islamabad. For men, long pants and short sleeved shirts are fine. Shorts are not a good idea in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate, especially compared to most developing world capitals
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes and no. There is very little crime in Islamabad, if any at all. You never have to worry about a carjacking, being mugged/robbed, having your car stolen or anything like that. I've never heard of any kind of personal crime there. The only concern is bombings/terrorist attacks. I know it sounds scary, but there aren't a lot in Islamabad itself, and the chances of being near one when it happens are minimal. So, if you can get over the psychological concern of terrorism it's actually a pretty safe place to live. There are checkpoints all over Islamabad, which are annoying but really helpful for security. It's just part of the daily commute. And they are always changing, so it's a fun game to figure out the quickest way to work with the fewest checkpoints each week.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Healthcare is really good. There is a fantastic dentist that everyone uses and loves. The hospital is not bad for simple problems. Every pill on earth is available over the counter, and the embassy doctors/nurses can tell you which brands are best. Some of my friends are even getting elective procedures like hair removal.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Beautiful. Really hot in the summer (over 100 degrees F), moderate in the winter (you can wear t-shirts in December during the day).Beautiful in Spring and Fall.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are international schools that NGO workers use, but for the US Embassy, families are not allowed.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium sized for the city. There are a lot of Embassies and NGOs, so there is a pretty decent scene. Also, there is a great opportunity to mix with the upper crust of Pakistani society as well.
2. Morale among expats:
So-so. The increase in attacks since last summer has made the city a bit more tense, but everyone seems to take it in stride and still have a good time. There is a lot of work, though.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are parties pretty much every weekend. Some are at Embassies, while others are at people's houses. There are dinner parties, brunches, etc. There are no clubs, but everyone is always out at dinners or at people's houses. Because most expats don't have kids it's a pretty party-centric environment.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a good post for singles. A lot of married folks are at the Embassy, and there are even a few jobs for spouses. If you are in the NGO community, it's a great family post. Domestic help is really cheap, and there are a lot of families here that have activities for expat children.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Islamabad is not a good place for gay/lesbian folks. The international scene is pretty laid back, and men do dance with each other, but in reality it's not an easy place to find someone if you are gay.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. It's Pakistan. My Jewish friends lie about their religion, if asked. While it's not uncommon to see Pakistani women driving in Islamabad, a Western woman is a novelty and will be stared at. I've been harassed at the checkpoints in town. Not too badly, just some rude gestures, but it's annoying nonetheless.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are multiple hikes in the Margalla Hills, which you can do before work or on the weekends. There is also rock-climbing there. Murree and Nathiagali are about 90/120 minutes outside of Islamabad and provide some amazing hiking. The expat community has various sports available during the week (soccer, ultimate, etc.).There are museums--not world class, but interesting. There are art galleries. Horsebackriding is available around Rawal Lake. Said Pur Village is a fun little place to visit with art galleries and restaurants.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Oh my. Everything. The Rosewood and Walnut are amazing, as is the craftsmanship. Carpets are imported from Iran and Afghanistan, but cheaper than you'd pay in the states. And Gems are amazing. There are some jewelry shops where they will custom make whatever you want for insanely reasonable prices. And if you have suits you like, the tailors can copy anything.
9. Can you save money?
Absolutely. With Danger/Hardship pay and a super cheap cost of living, this is a great post.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I love living in Islamabad.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Tank tops & mini-skirts.
3. But don't forget your:
Gym equipment, spirit of adventure, flip flops.
