St. Petersburg, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/02/17
Personal Experiences from St. Petersburg, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have also lived in Moscow.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Northern Virginia. Usually one flies from Dulles to Amsterdam or Frankfurt and then onto St. Petersburg. There are no US direct flights to/from St. Petersburg. Total traveling time is around 15-18 hours depending on layover time.
3. How long have you lived here?
Nine months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is spread out amongst the city center and everyone lives in an apartment. Some of the apartments are more modern than others. The older, historic apartments are owned directly by the USG and are well maintained by GSO. The more modern apartments are privately owned and maintained by the landlords. Overall most are pleased with the housing assignments though some places are definitely better than others. Most apartments are located within a 15- to 20-minute walk to the consulate so most walk to work but a few drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Aside from real dairy products, most everything is available. The sanctions have caused a problem with the importation of EU dairy products and Russia has filled the gap with subpar, and sometimes counterfeit, butter, cheese, milk, etc. There are some acceptable brands - it's really trial and error to find what is good. The Finnish border is not that far to stock up on items as well as trips outside of Russia where you can always pick up a small cheese supply. A large variety of fresh fruits during the winter is harder to come by. During the warmer months the supply is better. There are some decent grocery stores around town as well as a big box store similar to Costco. There's also Peter Justessen's from which the consulate places orders on occasion for liquor, wine, etc. There are also wine stores around town that have a decent selection (the sanctions have not affected the importation of EU wines).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There's the standard "ship a lot of liquids": salsa, maple syrup, olive oil, peanut butter. You can find a lot here, but it will just be more expensive and may not be as tasty so why not ship a supply. There's a decent variety of Asian and Indian food supplies, less so for Mexican products.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a wide array of restaurants that vary in price range. You can go out for a decent Georgian dinner for $15 per person or a fancier place for $25-$30 with wine and a few courses. There are also some very high end places that are over the top. There is a delivery service that people use, but I have yet to try it. Most places we have tried have been good and the service is better than what we expected. Quite often English menus are available at restaurants. The usual fast food places like McDonald's. Burger King, Starbucks and Subway are here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are an issue during the warmer months. Other than that nothing really of concern, maybe the occasional housefly. If bugs are not your thing, Russia is a good place for you!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Only through diplomatic pouch. Remember the 16 oz liquid rule and issue with lithium batteries. It takes about two to three weeks for things to arrive from the States. I have no experience using the local postal service, but would probably not recommend it if you have other options.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Both nannies and cleaning help are available. Personally we don't employ household help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym at the consulate that is adequate. Also there are some gym facilities located around the city that are pricey, but not completely outrageous especially compared to DC gym/studio prices. We brought some home exercise equipment that we use.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cards are accepted. We don't use them that often just at major retailers. We find it easier to use cash (as long as you have exact change!).
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None that I know of. There are plenty of orthodox houses of worship, a large mosque here, some Catholic and protestant churches as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Knowledge of Russian is definitely helpful. St. Petersburg seems to have more English speakers than other parts of Russia due to the amount of foreign tourists who visit the city. Many local restaurants have menus in English. The younger the person, the more likely they know some English. When shopping and out and about, it is quite useful to at least know how to read the Cyrillic alphabet.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it is not ADA compliant by any means! It would be tough to navigate the city with any type of physical disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
All are available and safe. The metro and buses are less than a dollar to take around the city and both are safe (as long as you are aware of your surroundings and personal belongings). Taxis/Uber are also quite affordable and reliable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We have a 4WD SUV, which has been nice to have during the more inclement weather. I think a small SUV would be best here. We use our car about twice a month, mostly to go to the big box store to stock up on groceries . We have not driven outside the city so cannot speak to the quality of roads.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, the internet is pretty decent. Though some sites are not accessible even with a VPN. We are able to stream easily and the speed is good.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are quite a few providers and the cost is relatively inexpensive for unlimited data and texts. Currently less than $10/month for service. I brought an unlocked iPhone from the States and just replaced the SIM card. Personally I have had a good experience with YOTA. If you are a consulate employee, you will be issued a phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine is necessary and it is pretty easy to get pets into Russia. The vet care is better than some places in the world, but still not the most advanced. I brought a supply of medications from the States for our dog. Vets make house calls here and the cost is reasonable. If you go to a clinic it is even cheaper, 500 rubles for an office visit. Nail clippings are more than reasonable at 100 rubles (approximately $1.75 - I used to pay $25 back home!). Some people use a local kennel for boarding and there are mixed reviews. People also trade pet-sitting duties with consulate friends.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No bilateral work agreement so either work from home for a US based firm or for the consulate. The EFM jobs available (before the freeze) are all part-time and there are only a handful. It is a small post. There are also some opportunities at the Anglo-American School on occasion.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are volunteer opportunities through the International Women's Club: orphanages, homeless shelters, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business dress at the consulate. Russians tend to dress more formally, especially women. Cocktail and formal dress may be necessary for special events, but not required too frequently.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pickpocketing is a problem especially during the summer at the touristy spots around town and on public transportation. There are also some other post- specific issues...
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
SAD is an issue here with the super-long, gray winters. St. Petersburg definitely lacks sun. Vitamin D deficiency is also prevalent (take a supplement). The med unit issues SAD lamps. Also respiratory issues are frequent here with the pollution. Medical evacuations, if necessary, are usually to Helsinki or London. There are visits from the US doctors posted in Moscow on a regular basis. The health unit at the consulate is staffed by a local doctor and nurse.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is not the best. There are quite a few that have a constant cough and respiratory problems. I would recommend stocking up on any inhalers since they can't get through pouch. Also an air purifier is helpful. Post will supply humidifiers for the winter.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are gluten-free products available. If you can speak Russian, you can probably explain any issues when out at restaurants.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
SAD definitely exists. The RMO-P visits fairly regularly and is available to handle any issues.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is long! It starts in October and ends in April or so. The summer is beautiful particularly during the "white nights." Spring and fall are fairly short as is summer. Winter isn't too bad as long as you are prepared both mentally and with the proper clothing. Also it is good to travel during either January or February to get out of the Russian dreariness. St. Petersburg doesn't receive as much snow as other parts of Russia, but it is cold and damp and of course very dark during the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
People use the Anglo-American School as well as local Russian schools. In the past the German school has also been attended by consulate kids. I believe there is also a French school. I don't have firsthand knowledge of any of the options.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Through the Anglo-American School and also some local options are available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small- to medium-sized expat community. It really depends on the personnel/leadership at the consulate since it is such a small post.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People tend to socialize with others from the consulate. The International Women's Club is quite active and has events nearly every week. It is a good way to meet others outside the US mission.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for all. Probably most difficult for single women though as are many posts.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. Read the news....
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Darker-skinned people may face some discrimination. It is a more patriarchal society. First-hand, I have not experienced any issues and feel quite safe walking around the city center by myself.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The culture! There is more ballet and opera than you can shake a stick at. Of course there is the Hermitage as well as other great museums and palaces around the area. St. Petersburg is truly the cultural capital of Russia.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Plenty of museums, palaces and historical sites to visit. The city is so walkable and accessible - there's never a shortage of places to visit or explore.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There's the typical Russian lacquer boxes, amber and matryoshka dolls. There are also some beautiful, traditional woolen scarves. Of course there is all sorts of fur -- hats, scarves, coats. Also porcelain from the St. Petersburg Imperial Porcelain is quite beautiful.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The culture. It is a very manageable-sized city, easily accessible and walkable. There is so much to do and see. The city is just filled with history and beauty.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How easy it would be to live in St. Petersburg. We had a previous Russian experience in Moscow and it is nothing like our time there. St. Petersburg is friendlier and overall a nicer city in which to live. We were prepared for the Russian idiosyncrasies and knew the challenges that this post presented. Do your research and know what to expect so that you are not surprised by things.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely! There is so much to see and do here.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Most of your summer wardrobe and sense of privacy.
4. But don't forget your:
Warm, walkable boots, Vitamin D supplements and a good translation app.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Leningrad by Anna Reid (about the Siege in WWII), Catherine the Great by Robert Massie, Tolstoy and Dostoyevsky. Any of the current political books on Russia and its leadership (there are plenty just search Amazon).
6. Do you have any other comments?
St. Petersburg is by far the most intriguing city where US diplomacy resides in Russia. It is a wonderful city, and if you are able to accept the challenges of living in Russia as an American diplomat, this is the best choice out of the four options.
