Dakar, Senegal Report of what it's like to live there - 10/14/24
Personal Experiences from Dakar, Senegal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've lived in Bangkok, Hanoi, and Manila.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We're from California. Several flights a week via JFK on Delta. 9 hours to JFK and 6 hours to CA. The alternate option (on the non-JFK days) is via Brussels or Paris. Starting in mid-2025, there is supposed to be Dakar-Dulles flight on United.
3. What years did you live here?
2021-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is average. Apartments were better maintained in SE Asia, and there isn't a selection of large standalone houses like people in Eastern Africa have enjoyed. To generalize, the main housing options are Almadies (near Embassy) and Mermoz/Fann (near the bigger international schools). In our case at the other side of Almadies from the US Embassy, home to work was either 10 minutes by car or 10 minutes by bicycle.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Meat and fruit from Western Africa / Morocco is moderately priced. Between the large supermarkets like Auchan and Casino, we were generally fine. Fruit/veggies also similarly priced and more reliably available from informal grocers. A number of importers of US goods like the American Food Store in Almadies.
As a more specific example, eggplant and zucchini quite available, but broccoli / cauliflower / fresh mushrooms are either pricey or very hard to fine.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Olive oil in bulk always useful.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
A wide variety to choose from. Frequently have Lebanese, Italian, seafood, Senegalese (more for lunch), Indian, Chinese. Thai and Vietnamese exist but are more rare.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos are around and feel seasonal (seems worse after rainy season is over). Manageable with ACs, sleeping under nets, and a UV trap we keep in the corridor.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic mail takes about 2.5 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available. Housekeepers/nannies who worked with US Embassy staff will probably ask between $300-400+ per month. Other expatriate French speakers seem to pay about $250.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Yes, it's safe in terms of security but not much in the way of sidewalks. Diesel fumes probably an issue if running on the main roads. However, one can run the backroads of Almadies and mostly avoid vehicles.
Outdoor space: US Embassy's Ebbitts Field, International School Dakar (a lot of parents do exercise there), Park Hann is ok on the weekend (has a 1.5 km loop for running and where our kid learned to bike). And don't forget the sea--Virage Beach, Yoff Beach, Ouakam Beach have sand. Surfers are of course happy here.
Road bikers have a club that does a big loop to downtown Dakar and back on Sundays. A mountain bike would be useful for getting through the sand and dirt of most of unpaved Almadies back roads.
Not much hiking near Dakar, but there's a nice cliff near Popenguine where one could probably walk for 1.5-2 hours with a decent cliffside view.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Not aware of people who pay memberships. US Embassy has an adequate gym.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards for supermarkets and more upscale restaurants. ATMs are around and relatively safe to use.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French would be useful and Wolof for interacting with informal vendors, taxi drivers, and warming the hearts of colleagues.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
With all the dirt and lack of sidewalks it would be tricky.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are a couple of newer rideshare services like Heetch and Yango, that have air-conditioned cars. The abundant taxis are 40-50 year old Peugeots that are rickety and spew diesel smoke but are readily available.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Something with clearance. It doesn't necessarily need to be AWD or 4WD but the sideroads just aren't even. People have imported hybrids and have seem to done ok. Toyota, Hyundai, Kia, Fords, seem relatively abundant among both expat and local populations.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Sonatel/Orange is I think the only provider. If you work as the US Embassy they can arrange to have it installed in advance. I believe I pay $65 for 75 Mbps (which shows at 40 Mbps on fast.com).
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local provider like Free or Orange.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
NGOs, teleworking for firms back home, teaching at international schools, journalists.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Have never heard of people being threatened and mugged. Bags/phones get occasionally snatched by a passing motorbike, but Thailand and Vietnam were worse in this regards. People are generally friendly.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I'd call air quality moderate and seasonal. February/March can be quite bad in the Harmattan when Saharan dust blows through for episodes lasting typically a few days to a week. Another culprit is the poor fuel quality and widespread use of diesel; vehicles are probably 80% diesel if I had to hazard a guess. However, for much of the year the ocean breeze does clear out the worst of it.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Moderate for about half the year (Dec - April). Warm, but not hot from May - Nov. Much less humid than Southeast Asia.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Main schools are ISD, Dakar Academy, Lycee Jean Mermoz. We've been happy with the teachers and administration of ISD at the elementary level.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, we were happy with the options here. The staff seem to love what they do and it's very affordable.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Direct experience with gymnastics, capoeira, multisport outdoor activities at King Fahd, surf camps and lessons.
Here's a more comprehensive public google doc on activities: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ya5nU0A2jIbcIx66GseE_LH5BEC7y7XWGhE4hYgZisQ/edit?fbclid=IwAR09s-sr9y5WX9M_yCnp1Pk2g2_dIM1xEEiiNMq6BeoWOzw2IGpC6JVpzEA
Expat Life:
1. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
People with young children seem the happiest. Couples or single folks who like music and art seem to enjoy it as well. A few seasons of the year where nearly every night of the week there is an art opening somewhere in the city that is a good party. Music / clubs start very very late here.
2. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
People are friendly but just given differences in lifestyle, it can be hard to deeply connect. It's very important to acknowledge people with a "ca va / ca va la famille" or "naga def". My sense is a mere 'hello' just by itself is seen as borderline rude.
3. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Cap Skirring and La Somone.
Cabo Verde is really close (1 hour) and quite different from Senegal.
4. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you like the beach and the ocean you'll be happy. If you surf or desire learning to surf and stick to it, you'll be really happy.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It wouldn't have changed much, but keep in mind that the airport is far, roughly 50 km to the airport and anywhere from 1.25 hour to 3 hours (rush hour on a rainy/flooded day). We've travelled but 3-4 day international trips just aren't worth it as they are in more accessible places.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi's Incorruptible from 2015 is a look at the election where the former decided to change the constitution to allow for a third term and a protest movement sprung up.
Atlantique from 2019 by Maty Diop. Sakho & Mangane is a 2021 Senegal cop series on Netflix (at least non-VPNed Netflix here).
The Black Girl/La Noire De... (1966) by Ousmane Sembene is a classic.
4. Do you have any other comments?
People who like sun and the beach are pretty happy here. If you like shopping malls and new restaurants opening all the time, you might be disappointed. It's not for everyone, but it's been a great place for us.
