Belgrade, Serbia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/30/24
Personal Experiences from Belgrade, Serbia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've lived in many countries before this, including several Eastern and Central European countries, as well as in SE Asia and Latin America.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA. There are no direct flights from Belgrade to the U.S. You have to take a quick (two hour or so) flight to somewhere in Western Europe and transfer for the transatlantic leg. Overall the travel time is around ten to twelve hours depending on your layover in Europe.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-present.
4. How long have you lived here?
Just over a year.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is located in several areas: Banovo Brdo, a community of town houses and single family homes near the international school; Dedinje, usually apartments (some are quite large) walking distance to the Embassy; and "downtown," which could mean one of several neighborhoods closer to the city center.
Downtown housing is generally all apartments. Commutes from Banovo Brdo can be up to 30 minutes, Dedinje is usually a twenty minute walk, and commutes from downtown are usually around twenty minutes or so, depending on traffic (which can be tricky). We live in a downtown apartment and love the location as we are close to restaurants, cafes, bars, and an excellent green market. Each area has its pluses and minuses. Most families seem to be in Banovo Brdo or Dedinje. Downtown apartments seem mostly to be assigned to singles or couples without children.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce is excellent and cheap. Even in the dead of winter there are decent vegetables available that are grown in local greenhouses, but the seasonal items are exceptional such as berries in the Spring. There are green markets all over the city that have not only fruits and vegetables, but olives, some household goods, dairy products, and eggs. We get a majority of our groceries at the green market by our apartment.
There are also large Serbian grocery store chains (Maxi) and some mega-stores similar to Costco a little ways out from the city center. Imported groceries are of course more expensive, but local products cost a bit less than in the United States. We get most of our cleaning supplies at DM, a German chain that carries personal care products as well as laundry detergent, etc. There are DMs all over Belgrade.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We shipped salad dressing and I'm glad we did. Pretty much everything else is available here so no need to ship much, unless you are very brand loyal.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are several delivery options, including Wolt and Glovo. You can get restaurant meals delivered as well as groceries and other items. There are a lot of restaurants serving some version of Balkan cuisine. There are excellent pizza places in Belgrade and the cafe culture is terrific--tons of places to get a coffee and sit and chat with your friends for hours. This is not a "coffee to go" kind of place, as Serbs drink a lot of coffee and they really take the time to enjoy it. There are a few good Chinese places but other Asian options are a little scarce.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not that I know of.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO from the Embassy, but I have received some packages from other countries (not the US) and they got to me just fine. I haven't shipped anything using the local postal/courier services.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is available. The hourly rate is reasonable for Americans working at the Embassy but not crazy low. Many people have nannies. We have a housekeeper who cleans for us twice a week.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
I don't think this is a great biking city, but some people do cycle to work and there are some bike paths. Belgrade is a great walking city and I walk home fairly regularly (it takes about 50 minutes to get to my apartment from the US Embassy). There are a lot of parks throughout the city. Plenty of people run. Sidewalks generally are in good shape.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Lots and lots of gyms and exercise options. Serbs are into sports! The Embassy has a small but well-equipped gym. I go to a small gym very close to my apartment and love it. I don't think it's expensive. If there is some sport-related activity you want, it's probably here.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes to all of the above. There seems to be a perennial shortage of change here so we end up using a card a lot to simplify life.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are several but I don't have any personal info to share.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Serbian will help immensely. Many people do speak English, especially anyone under the age of 30, but having Serbian will make your life a lot more enjoyable. There are Serbian classes offered at the Embassy, and I've seen fliers around town for private Serbian teachers who work on the local economy.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
To some degree yes, depending on where you live and how you want to get around. Not a lot of ramps around, and many buildings only have stairs. Buses don't kneel for accessibility.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is no metro system in Belgrade, which is an issue. Public transport consists of buses, trolleys and trams. Overall public transportation functions fairly well, but Belgrade traffic can be bad, and with all public transport above ground, commute times can be long, especially in the afternoon/evening. But the public transportation is very affordable. There is an Uber or Lyft-like service called CarGo that functions fairly well, but it can be difficult to get a car at rush hour or when it's raining.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
This will depend to some degree on your lifestyle and housing location. For anyone in a downtown apartment, a small car, the smallest you can handle, is best as parking spots (some of which may not be in your actual apartment building) can be very small. People in Banovo Brdo or Dedinje seem to have larger parking areas. Serbia is a great location for regional travel and road trips through Europe, so having a vehicle for that is helpful.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, internet access is fast. It was installed in our apartment upon our arrival. The Embassy reached out with available packages and then made the contract for us, and oversaw installation.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We kept our Google Fi accounts and use a local SIM for data for personal phones. If you work at the US Embassy you will have a work phone. Local mobile phone plans are very affordable and it's easy to get an e SIM.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, there are qualified vets and I believe kennel services. No quarantine, at least for cats, upon arrival. Belgrade is a city full of happy dogs and their human companions. There are dog parks and some restaurants/bars are dog-friendly. There is not a big stray dog problem in Belgrade which makes it safer for domestic animals.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most partners who work have jobs at the Embassy. There may be some teaching positions available at the international school for teachers with teaching degrees.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy dress code is more formal than in other places I've served. Overall Serbs dress nicely when they leave their homes.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is available, I'm not sure about the quality. Good dental care is available.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Ok but air quality can vary.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Some high end restaurants will ask about allergies, but it's not typical. Know your allergies and what to avoid. Nuts aren't terribly common in Serbian dishes.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Not really. In mid December there are only around 6.5 hours of sunlight, but it's still much better than other places I've lived. If that is a particular sensitivity bring a SAD lamp. They are not supplied by the Embassy.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Temperate European climate. Summers are hot and getting hotter (just like everywhere else).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is one international school where most of the families send their children: Belgrade International School. I believe most people are happy with it.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a preschool adjacent to Banovo Brdo housing. I don't know the cost. Others with young children have nannies.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's medium-size, and the morale is good. Belgrade has a lot to offer.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are a few organizations that offer a lot of opportunities for expats to get together for events such as walking tours, hikes, karaoke nights...
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes for all, especially singles and couples without children. There are a ton of things to do from going to the theater (some plays have English supertitles), ballet or cinema (movies are shown in their original language with Serbian subtitles except for children's movies which may be dubbed), to traveling outside of Belgrade to visit thermal baths or wineries. I'm sure families have a good time as well but I don't have any direct experience with living here with children. Families seem generally happy, however.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Serbians are friendly and you can make friends with locals. Belgrade is not terribly diverse but as I am not a person of color, I haven't personally had any uncomfortable encounters.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Eh...kind of? I'm sure there's a community, but this is still very much a traditional society. There is a gay pride parade every year but there are police protecting it, which tells you something.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Uh, it's the Balkans. Read up on the region.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I did not know how amazing wineries are in this area. There are great wineries just outside of Belgrade and it's fun to visit (and have an excellent meal). Some have accommodations, which is not a bad idea to plan for as the wine is delicious. There are some great national parks in Serbia, and visiting Novi Sad in the north is interesting. Regional travel opportunities are amazing. A high speed train from Novi Sad to Budapest is supposed to open sometime in 2025 which will open up a lot more options for traveling across Europe by train. Serbian highways are excellent and once you're out of Belgrade the driving is easy. There are cultural events every weekend, with an excellent international film festival every Spring and a great book fair in the Fall.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Drink wine! There is also a growing craft beer scene in Serbia but you have to look to find the craft beer bars as there aren't too many.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really. Pirot is famous for carpets.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The location of Belgrade and Serbia is great for regional travel. Belgrade is vibrant and a bit edgy--it reminds me of the former Warsaw Pact country capitals in the late 1990's. Serbs are friendly and there is a great, but dark, national sense of humor here. Belgrade is a great walking city. Serbian cuisine can be a little on the heavy side but delicious, and new restaurants are opening up every day that modernize the local cuisine. Enjoy the cafe culture.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I thought it would be a good post, but it is even better than expected. Serbians are warm and welcoming (most of the time).
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes!
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Wine from any other place
4. But don't forget your:
bottle opener and hiking shoes.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are many, many books about the former Yugoslavia and the regional conflicts--too many to list here.
