Taipei, Taiwan Report of what it's like to live there - 12/31/18
Personal Experiences from Taipei, Taiwan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've lived in Kuala Lumpur and Brasilia prior to living in Taipei.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC, USA. It's about 24 hours total in transit, travel isn't too hard here. Usually you connect through Tokyo or Seoul, though there are direct flights to LA and SF from Taipei, which is only about 12 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission; my spouse is with AIT.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We live in a single family home with a very large fenced yard in Yangmingshan (YMS). All other housing is in apartments. The homes in YMS are large, between three and five bedrooms, three to five bathrooms, large living rooms, plus an extra nanny/maid room. The homes have fireplaces and large US-style kitchens and ovens. The tile in the bathrooms and kitchen is a little dated, but the homes are well-built and have new windows and solar-powered water heaters.
The street the homes are on is a cul-de-sac so there is very little traffic and the neighborhood kids often ride bikes and play outside together. In the past apartments were quite small, minimalist with little storage, but the budget has been increasing and now AIT rents several new apartments in Tianmu and Neihu that are three or four bedrooms. They offer bunk beds for large families living in apartments. The AIT office building has been scheduled to move to Neihu from Da’an for several years, though still has not moved due to many challenges of aligning the high volume of disparate demands from different government agencies involved in both building a new facility and physically moving the office.
Commute times to the current building in Da'an range from a ten minute walk for people who live in Da'an to 20-30 mins for people in Dazhi and Neihu and 40 minutes for people in Tianmu and Yangmingshan. When the commute changes to Neihu, it will be about the same for Tianmu and YMS and Dazhi, longer for Da'an, and shorter for Neihu.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can buy almost anything you want on the local market. The island has a great climate and fruits and vegetables are available at all times. If you buy seasonal produce it is cheaper than in DC, but if you want to buy off-season imports they are more expensive. I've found cleaning supplies to be readily available, with many western brands available at Carrefour and Costco, and local brands at all other stores. Like most posts, you may need to figure out which local product works best for your need, but after that it's very easy to find what you need.
For the stuff you can't, Amazon ships here, even if you aren't using diplomatic mail.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
The only thing I've not been able to find here is dried black, pinto, and garbanzo beans, but you can buy cans at Carrefour. I ship the dried beans from the States every so often.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Taipei has a huge array of food options and a lot of expats. Lots of street food stalls in every corner of the city, as well as restaurants packed into every available spot. Daan has a lot of different cuisines, and Tianmu has a lot of international/western food in addition to a lot of local food, but almost everyone I've met says their neighborhood has the best food. Expats live all over the city so it's hard to say that there's one type of takeout or restaurants used by expats. People use Food Panda and Uber Eats to deliver.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Most apartments in the city are devoid of bugs, which I personally find a little scary because I'm not sure what they're using for abatement. All the parks have tons of ants and other bugs. In YMS we have the occasional ant problem indoors, though most bugs stay outside. That's actually been a great part of being here - my kids have learned a ton about the different bug and animal species here.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Local mail is straightforward and affordable and most offices have someone who can speak English in addition to the signage having English, though most AIT employees utilize diplomatic pouch or DPO at work.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There are many Filipina nannies who work for expat families and move from family to family as people depart. The hourly rate for part-time help is about NTD$300 or US$10. If you hire full time it can be less per hour because you pay to sponsor them and for their health insurance and travel home once a year. Taiwan-born nannies/helpers are usually more expensive, so people tend not to have local household help. We have employed a Taiwanese Ayi to help everyone learn Chinese, but we seem to be in the minority.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a lot of private gyms like World Gym around the city, but Taipei also has several public sport centers. Most have pools, gyms and an assortment of sport courts, and some have climbing walls or other features. There are also public pools throughout the city and outdoor exercise equipment at almost every park as well as running trails along almost every river. There is also an ice rink downtown where people do hockey and figure skating.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted at most malls and larger restaurants, but Taiwan is still largely a cash economy. ATMs are common and usually quite safe, though I have recently had two friends have their cards compromised. We use ATMs at least weekly and have never had a problem.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don't have to speak any Chinese to get around. Many expats never learn any Chinese at all. That said, speaking some Chinese can go a long way to help with day-to-day stuff and just building goodwill as you go about your life. Chinese classes are readily available. Many Tianmu expats take Chinese at either the Community Services Center or TLI, AIT also offers spouse classes.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It seems that each neighborhood has areas with accessible places and large sidewalks, though it might be difficult to get around the smaller alleys or walkup apartment buildings in older areas of the city. The MRT and buses are all accessible though sometimes crowded.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transportation is amazing here, safe, and cheap. The MRT is quick and reliable and each station has buses that extend the service to non-MRT areas. We used taxis, buses and MRT exclusively for the first three months here and were able to get around very easily from YMS. Bus and MRT signs are in English and Chinese, and Google Maps will give you route options for nearby buses with up-to-the-minute arrival times. Uber is now legal here so many people use Uber to get around, but taxis are also numerous and readily available from almost anywhere.
To leave Taipei, there are also buses and trains going to almost every corner of the island from Taipei Main Station and then public buses to extend your travel from the other city's train station.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Almost any car is ok to bring. We have a minivan, and while there are a few alleys that have been a tight squeeze, I've been able to drive and park everywhere I've needed to go. The highways are well-maintained and the roads in Taipei are all wide and people generally abide by the laws. You don't need to drive to get around Taipei and many people don't, but if you have kids in multiple schools or involved in sports you may find it beneficial to have a private vehicle.
If you aren't used to driving with scooters and motorcycles then you'll need just a quick minute to get used to the patterns here, which is that cars drive to the left side of a lane and scooters pass on the outside right. If you need to turn right, you just signal and then slowly make your move, the scooters will adjust around you. In this regard smaller cars make it easier for you to see everyone around you, and reduce your blind spots. If I could do it all over I'd probably buy a local Toyota Wish, which is a five-seater station wagon with an optional pop-up third row to fit seven.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed internet is readily available and quick to install. Our sponsors installed it prior to our arrival, but people who've come with private companies have had it up and running in two or three days.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We have a local plan through Chunghua, but there are also other companies, including Taiwan Mobile. Most expats I know use a local cell plan with an unlocked phone. We pay approximately USD$80 a month for unlimited data on two cell phones, a landline and home internet.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
The pet quarantine just changed last year from 21 days to 7 days, so it is getting easier to bring a pet, though I believe the paperwork coming in is still quite rigorous and shots have to be all up to date and arranged well in advance of your arrival. People here love dogs and often you'll find people walking them in strollers through parks and streets. I've also seen people with cats on leashes at parks. In YMS there are large mountain dogs who are "owned" but not necessarily on leash or even monitored, though I've never seen any of the dogs be violent with people or other dogs and I run around the area a lot. Vets are many and reliable, and open on weekends. We use one in Tianmu and the staff speaks English which helps immensely.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Expat spouses/partners have a huge range of jobs. Some work at local schools teaching English, some work at TAS or TES, or substitute teach at those schools. Many telecommute to jobs in DC. There's also a crafters market, so many sell things they make at fairs or bazaars. Some work at one of the many universities in Taipei. The local salary scale is much lower, probably half of what you'd get at AIT or a multinational company.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I know of some people volunteering with animal shelters but have also heard there aren't a lot of volunteer opportunities other than through the schools.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Taipei feels very much like the States, or DC in particular. There are not too many chances to formal wear but people wear business attire to work. Outside of work it's quite casual and often recreational. People here love hiking and exercise, at least the people in YMS and Tianmu. There isn't quite as much skin shown but mainly because most people want to avoid getting tan/sunburned and not out of modesty.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I've always felt very safe. Often if I've left my bag unzipped, someone will alert me to it.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care here is exceptional. We had a child here and the pre and postnatal care was great. All other occasions when we've needed medical help we have found it immediately. Most doctors speak English. Many expats in Tianmu go to Veterans Hospital, but expats also use NTU. AIT recommends Adventist Hospital's Priority Care Center, which is indeed very western, with English speaking receptionists, but usually about three times the cost of going somewhere else.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally the air quality is good throughout the city. There are occasional bad pollution days, but they are few and far between. On YMS the PM2.5 is usually much lower than the rest of the city, so some people with asthma or other respiratory concerns choose to live there.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There is shrimp and pork in a lot of locally produced food, but I think that people are increasingly aware of allergies and food sensitivities, so you can get around pretty easily if you have allergies. Also there is a lot of imported foods, so you can check labels.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are four clear seasons in YMS, though the temperatures are usually about 10 degrees F cooler on the mountain than in Da’an at any given time. It's quite warm from May - October, no need for coats or even really long sleeves. In July and August it can be really hot, so living up higher is a boon. In November it starts to cool off, and by January we use coats and long pants, though the lowest temperatures are usually in the 40s. It can get warm starting in March, but often stays at a very pleasant temperature until mid-May. It does rain a lot in Taipei generally, so bring your rain gear.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are quite a few international schools, most AIT people go to Taipei American School, though a good portion use Taipei European School and Taipei American Adventist School as well. We have used TES, and found it to be really a great environment for our child. They have a holistic approach to the child learner. Everyone I know at TAS loves it, says the teachers are amazing and the facility is new and amazing.
There are also quite a few expats who utilize local schools, both private and public. Lih Jen is a private school near AIT Da’an and has a few AIT families, it's a bilingual curriculum but has a lot of homework compared to what most US schools demand so the families have to be really committed to Chinese language learning. There are also a number of expat families at Shidong elementary in Tianmu and at other local schools around the city. Taipei has a lot of ABC or mixed-nationality families whose kids are at local schools, so odds are any place you're looking at will have had an expat at some point.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I've heard that both TES and TAS make it quite difficult to enroll a special-needs child, but if you can somehow slip through the admissions process then they provide great support to the child.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschools are readily available all over the city, and start at 2.5 years old. They vary in price, though the ones associated with TAS and TES (English language instruction) are the most expensive, and local preschools offering Chinese instruction would be cheaper. It is usually cheaper to hire an Ayi than to send your toddler to school.
There is an extensive after-school program at TAS called TYPA, though the prices are quite high. They do offer almost every possible activity, but you can't always get in. TES has after school programs as well, but slightly fewer offerings. There are also private bushibans all over the city that will take your child from school to the after school program where they do homework or more school. Taiwan is a very academic-focused place, and most local after school services are academic in nature.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Soccer is available both through local teams and through schools. TAS has an evening team that anyone can enroll in called FC Tigers/Heartbreakers, TES offers teacher-run and third-party sports teams.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's huge. There are expats all over the city. Tianmu is known for having expats because it's where TAS and TES are located, but there are expats everywhere. Almost everyone loves it in Taipei, because it's an incredibly easy place to live.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I've met most my expat friends through schools or work. The Community Services Center in Tianmu offers classes and tours in English for people looking to get out and explore with someone who can lend some expertise to the local culture. There is also meetup and several FB groups for expats, including FIT Friends in Taiwan, Expat Mamas Taipei, Expats in Taipei, and many many others.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's good for everyone.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I've found it easy to make friends with locals, though the language barrier is the only restriction. If someone speaks English or is willing to suffer through my bad Chinese they are very open to friendship.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The city had a reputation for being very open and welcoming to LGBT community but just this year the populous just passed a referendum rejecting the supreme court's ruling that the legislature had to pass a law protecting same-sex marriage. So I think this isn't necessarily a bad place for LGBT expats but there is some socially conservative thinking in the general population.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Taiwan is really an amazing place to live, with beaches, mountains and forests, national parks, and remarkable public transit to almost anywhere. Taipei is an incredibly convenient place to live, anywhere in the city. Everyone thinks their neighborhood is the best, most convenient place.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's very safe, very convenient, you can find almost anything you need, and the people are friendly. It's accessible to tons of recreation and the schools are good.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would absolutely move here again.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Leather jacket.
3. But don't forget your:
Camping gear.
