Lome, Togo Report of what it's like to live there - 08/13/15
Personal Experiences from Lome, Togo
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my second posting, after Tbilisi, Georgia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
from Lome to Washington, DC: there are connections through Paris and Brussels.
You can also drive to Accra, Ghana (four hours by road) for more international flights (including a direct to New York).
3. How long have you lived here?
One year
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most embassy staff live in a nice gated community five minutes from the Embassy. Houses are large, with walled gardens.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Only shelf-stable milk.
Limited, seasonal produce.
Meats and cheeses cost more than in the U.S. but produce costs significantly less for most items.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
generally pleased with availability of items. Kids' toys on the local market are not great, though--best to ship ahead if you can't order by mail.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food at all. Some very nice French restaurants with costs ranging from US$5 to $$$.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
mosquitoes (though less of a problem that we expected)
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
widely available, with good English, around $1 an hour
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a gym. Private gyms are advertised around town but I haven't been in one.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are almost never used--an entirely cash economy.
Only use ATMs in recommended locations.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Some, Catholic and Protestant.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Having French is almost necessary, though some expats get by only in English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very difficult! Often no sidewalks and lots of stairs to enter buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No for safety.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Toyota SUVs are great.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
2Mbps is the best you can get, for around US$175 a month. Expensive and slow!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No; not sure.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many--anything you want to do, there's a need for that!
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Less formal than in DC. Local fabrics are fun to wear, with great local tailors available.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Do not go on the public beach! (There are frequent muggings!)
There are nice, private beach clubs that are safe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Embassy medical care. We went to one private clinic that was ok. In general, it's best to leave Togo if a serious medical situation develops.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
good. (During Harmattan there's a lot of dust, and sometimes people burn trash, but overall the air quality hasn't caused any problems for us.)
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
No special concerns--probably easier here for those with food allergies, as food is very simple here.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Warm year-round, with rainy and dry seasons
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are three main choices for expats: the British School, the French School, and Arc-en-Ciel. We've been very pleased with the British School, which is inside our gated community.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
some accommodations are possible--talk to individual schools
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
yes
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Limited ones. There's a big horse club and a golf course.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small, with overall good morale. People are social and supportive.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Beach, pool, happy hours, dinners out, dinner parties in homes.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for families/couples, much harder for singles.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
If a couple willing to be publicly discreet, sure. If single, no.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Women are generally treated as inferiors to men, though as expats we can largely ignore that. (ie, as foreigners the locals treat us differently regardless of gender.)
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
village celebrations, waterfall hikes, beach days, tropical plants, birds
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Fauna Cultura (the Lome "Zoo") is an interesting place.
Kpalime is a nice city in the rainforest with great waterfall hikes.
There's a place to gather shark teeth fossils.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
wood carvings, leather sandals, local cloth
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
1. We have a nice, large house with a beautiful garden, both of which are kept clean by friendly locals we pay at affordable rates.
2. We have five-minute commutes.
3. The kids can walk to school, and we can walk to the British Club, a small grocery store, and a pizzeria.
4. The beach clubs are nice.
5. The British School does a good job educating our kids.
6. Our work is interesting, varied, challenging, and rewarding.
7. We are part of a diverse faith community, exposing us to broader perspectives on life in Togo.
8. We are able to directly help people here (both through our work and through personal donations of used clothing, toys, books, etc).
10. Can you save money?
yes
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It's hard to be surrounded by crushing poverty all the time.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
cold weather gear
4. But don't forget your:
binoculars, bird book, sense of adventure, French phrasebook, and beach gear.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Go to youtube and type in Lome, Togo. View what's there.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Field Guide to the Birds of Ghana. by Nik Borrow, Ron Demey (Helm Field Guides)
The Village of Waiting
7. Do you have any other comments?
This is a true hardship post. Life here is overwhelmingly, unimaginably difficult for most of its residents. We are in an incredibly privileged position. This is a place where there are rich people and impoverished people, with very few in the middle. I didn't realize how many things and services exist only where there is a large middle class (like shopping malls!) until being here and seeing how much isn't here.
