Lome, Togo Report of what it's like to live there - 09/27/17
Personal Experiences from Lome, Togo
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Nope. Lived in Washington DC before.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
São Paulo/Brazil. Direct flight 7:30hr flight. I heard they canceled that flight right after we departed though...
3. How long have you lived here?
10 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Our house was great, lots of space, BBQ area, swimming Pool and a lovely garden. The only bad thing was the parking space. Very narrow for our car.
We lived in Cite Millenium but there is Cite Oua ou La Caisse which is where the majority of the expats or other diplomats live. My husband's commute was 10 minutes from home to the embassy.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries in general were not as bad as we thought it would be. You can find pretty much everything locally. Vegetables and fruits are awesome and cheese is just incredible. I have never had so much cheese in my life like we had in Togo. There are some things it is better to purchase from the U.S. of course since it will be cheaper. But for a family of two we used to spend about U$120 dollars at the supermarket per week including expensive cheese and meat.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We missed frozen stuff like potstickers, hash browns, and sausage... but you can survive
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a VERY limited number of places to go. PERIOD. In two months you already know all of them. It is a very small city and not many options.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
In housing nope, but after 6 pm you do need the spray against mosquitoes. It is horribly hot and they are everywhere.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic post office (DPO). I used the local post office in La Caise neighborhood once a month to send letters and cards to my friends in Brazil. Cheap and decent. But you do need French or someone that speaks French to help you there. Letters to Brazil took 18 days to arrive, to the US about 9 days and 5 days to London.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We had 4 employees (I do miss them!!!)
A maid 3x a week for U$77 dollars every 2 weeks
A pool guy 2x a week for U$46 dollars a month
And two gardeners (one was an apprentice of the other, we didn't pay him, only his boss) 3x a week for U$55 every 2 weeks.
Some embassy people had chefs, baby sitters and more help than us... it is cheap and convenient
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a gym at the U.S. embassy for employees and family members and there are some gyms in town. The only one I visited had no air conditioning at all and there were 20 people exercising and it was more than 100F outside that day... no way
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Nope. This is a money based economy. ATMs are safe only inside the Embassy
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
No idea. I did hang out with the Brazilian missionaries of Togo so I used to go to services in Portuguese.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. They either speak French or Kabie (their local language). I had classes at the Institute Française du Togo, which is their Alliance Française and also had a private teacher at home. My French got way better with the private tutor. Very cheap classes.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Totally. Not ready to receive someone in that condition.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not safe at all. You do see expats using the moto taxis but they do not have driver's license to ride one. We only used the embassy motor pool and after a while our own car.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We took a Toyota 4 Runner. It was very good for the dirt roads and also there is a Toyota dealer and service locally at the main avenue. It was a huge car compared to others but it was the ideal car for the place. I would never take any type of small car or cars not suitable for dirt roads.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It is but it is a joke. Don't rely on the internet for anything since it is almost always down. They have a cell phone company called Togocell and for U$55 dollars you can have internet on your cell phone. The service is very expensive and inadequate. And every time there are riots against the local government they turn off the internet in the whole country. This is a place to read (A LOT).
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
As mentioned above I used a local provider. Their plan doesnt allow to router Apple iPhones with your MacBook... go figure why
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We adopted a cat in Lome and we used a local veterinarian. He spoke decent English. I do know there's a German vet in town that almost all the expats and diplomats go to, but she charged 3x more than ours. We met him in front of our house when he was leaving our neighbors house after caring for his dogs. It was the best deal ever. Our cat is an indoor cat so we didn't have any issues at all with her. But there are some locals who appreciate dog's meat. So be careful if you take your pet there and always keep them inside the house and your garden.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I was a member of household (MOH) there so I didn't work at the embassy. Also the embassy was not hiring due the hiring freeze. I used to freelance as a translator to Brazilian companies (whenever internet permitted of course). I do know some spouses could try a job at the British School or at the Peace Corps. Also the local salary was a joke. For example to work at the embassy as a local they would pay something about U$8k a year for a FS9 position.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
A LOT!!! I volunteered almost every week. At Catholic orphanages, with Brazilian missionaries, with the Brazilian embassy program and also with some locals around my neighborhood. It is rewarding.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Take formal dress for the Marine Ball, otherwise you will have to use local fabric to have one custom made. At work is business casual and public places people were very laid back (the expats). Locals are more concerned about dressing nice (their local fabric and materials).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. You can't walk on the beach by yourself, if you go somewhere be aware of your surroundings. You will always be a foreigner since it is West Africa and the economic gap is huge between us and the local population. I used to drive by myself everyday and never had a problem. But I do know of spouses who found themselves in the middle of a riot for example. When in doubt, request the motor pool or try to have a driver. Some spouses didn't want to deal with the crazy traffic of 5 people in one motorcycle and have drivers. I loved the freedom of going anywhere I needed by myself.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes, especially malaria. The quality of health care is very poor. You medically evacuate to have babies, if you break a leg, etc. You do not want to get seriously ill in Togo.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. During January and February the harmattan season makes people with sinus issues want to die. My husband suffered a lot there with the dust that comes from the desert.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Lots of expats and diplomatic family members get depressed. It is a very very slow pace of life. You have to be aware that you have to try your best to entertain yourself. Learn crochet, watch DVDs, read books, talk to your family more often. There are no malls, no movie theaters, nothing like that.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extremely hot all year long. Severe winds of sand and dust at the beginning of the year, lots of rain in June and July. Leave your winter gear behind and embrace the never-ending summer.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I dont have kids but I know there was a British school and a very good French one.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big expatriate community. You find all sorts of morale issues going on there, from people who enjoy country to the ones that hate with all their heart but have to deal with it anyway. Stay away from depressed people since they tend to drag you down with them.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Socializing is usually among the expatriates. I found myself friends in the Brazilian local community and had things to do every weekend.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not at all good for single people. Good for families. I was there alone with my husband and needed to get a pet since he was working a lot and I spent a lot of time alone in the huge house. But we did got closer and stronger as a couple.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Nope. It is not accepted by the local society and it is very difficult.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There's a reverse racism going on there. For example... if you go to the street market... a bread is 20 cents for a local and it is 2 dollars for you expatriate. After I learned it, my maid was all the time doing the street shopping (even though I loved the marché).
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We visited Mauritius Island since we were in that part of the world. I improved my French and helped a lot of people. Even though there were some issues there, I miss Togo and I cherish my Togolese friends I made there.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There's a Maison Des Esclaves which is the only kind of museum of the country and people go to Kpalime for the waterfall.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not much actually... but you do find handicrafts, artwork and fabric. My family loved their gifts.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money and traveling to African countries you would never visit in your life otherwise.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That it would be better to go as a eligible family member (EFM) than as a MOH. Avoid going if you are not already married. Your life can be very difficult.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but not my husband. He is happy to be out of there.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
All your winter gear.
4. But don't forget your:
Bathing suits and sunscreen lotion.
