Lome, Togo Report of what it's like to live there - 02/22/19
Personal Experiences from Lome, Togo
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We've lived in six African countries over the past 20 years.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is Italy. Pretty easy to get to Europe. Air France, Brussels Airlines and TAP all have direct flights. The country is also served by Ethiopian, and Moroccan airlines.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We have a house with four bedrooms (all en-suite) with a reasonable garden in Tokoin Cebevito. Commute time is about 10 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local products such as meat, fruits and vegetables are plentiful and inexpensive. Supermarkets carry imported (largely French) products which are more expensive than at home, but not unreasonable.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We typically ship a lot of Italian products: espresso coffee, olive oil, wine, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a good number of restaurants, but none to write home about.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes at times.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Letters? Do those still exist? Packages are mostly through DPO, although we also use local postal facilities to receive DVDs and books from Amazon UK.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Our gardener is paid 30,000 CFA (about $52) a month for three days / week of work. My wife also gets a weekly massage, that costs 5000 CFA.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
My wife has a personal trainer come to the house. He gets 5000 CFA per hour session.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use a credit card regularly at the larger supermarkets, and have never had any problem.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Don't know.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is required to get around. We have a private tutor come to the house for 10,000 CFA for three lessons / week.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
No more than any other city we've experienced in Africa. Meaning yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Moto taxis are widely available, although I don't consider them safe. Taxis can be had at reasonable rates, say, 2000 - 3000 CFA / trip within town. There are no trains or trams. City buses exist. I don't know the cost, but they don't appear to be very frequent. Peace Corps volunteers use buses to travel up country. Ticket prices are reasonable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
In town, streets are mostly unpaved, and can have lots of ruts / holes / detours. A vehicle with good ground clearance is recommended. Theft of car parts, particularly recent model vehicles, is common in my opinion.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
This past year internet has improved markedly. We now have fiber optic to our residence at 30 Mbps. Cost is very reasonable: 30,000 CFA (about $52) per month, and the service is more reliable than anything I've experienced elsewhere in Africa to date.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are currently two local providers. For use in Lome, either is fine. Lots of people get dual-sim phones, and either have both providers available, or else keep one sim for home country number (e.g., for whatsapp).
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We use a German woman here. She's very good. Animals need not be quarantined upon arrival.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Mixed bag. There aren't many positions in the local market.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
They're there, but you need to look for them.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. Formal dress? You mean like to attend opening night at La Scala? In West Africa, there's pretty much a tailor on every street. Locally available materials are bright and beautiful. You can have all kinds of clothing made to fit, from suits, to boubous, to shirts, dresses...pretty much anything you want, and at reasonable rates.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
If you don't ride on the back of a moto taxi, you don't have lots to worry about, but do take care to avoid getting malaria.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is nowhere like in Europe or North America. That said, we did find a good dentist who takes care of basic needs for Peace Corps volunteers. My wife had a panoramic xray done and I'd not seen that before.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Being on the ocean, the air quality is pretty good. Except for the harmattan season, when there's lots of dust. If you have any respiratory issues, take care.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Afraid I can't answer this one.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Nothing particular.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's actually not too hot, but often uncomfortable, due to the humidity. You can always go out for a bit, but if you enjoy your air-conditioned home, you'll probably end up spending lots of time indoors.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our kids are grown. There are several schools, including the French school (I hear it's ok), Arc en Ciel (has both English and French programs) and what's called the British School. I haven't heard anything particularly good about this latter. There's also an American Overseas school that doesn't seem like it will last much longer.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Can't help here.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are several preschools, some bilingual.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
No help here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It seems smaller than most places I've lived. Morale is pretty good.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Our socialization is pretty much limited to the home.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for anyone with a good attitude.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I don't have any information on this, so expect it's kept under the radar.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Togolese are very friendly, sincere, and love to share in public. Invitations into a Togolese home, however, is unusual, even among themselves.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I'm not aware of any problems. The people I've met are very accepting and seem to be non-judgmental.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Easy answer: working with Togolese colleagues!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
This isn't a tourist spot. Spend time with people, and you'll have an experience you won't likely get in most places.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
It's West Africa. Pagne (cloth) is abundant, extremely varied, and wonderful.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The people.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Not much.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Prejudicial ideas.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and willingness to laugh - the louder the better.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Can't think of any.
