Manama, Bahrain Report of what it's like to live there - 09/05/12
Personal Experiences from Manama, Bahrain
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From D.C. travel time is 14-16 hours with a stopover in London or Kuwait.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
(The contributor is affiliated with the US Embassy and has been living in Bahrain for about one year, a third expat experience)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is excellent and much better than you will find in other parts of the world. Commute time is 15-20 minutes from all locations. The U.S. Embassy houses people is in one of two areas: most singles and couples without kids are in modern 3BR flats in Reef Island, close to shopping and restaurants. Families are in 3-5 BR villas on housing compounds on the sleepier west side of the island. The compounds are lovely neighborhoods with community gyms, pools, and playgrounds. All villas come with either exterior or 3rd-floor maid quarters. Kitchens and yards vary in size. Most villas are quite new and much bigger than what we are used to back home. Families are clustered in these compounds (where other mostly expat families also live) and all are within a 5-minute drive of each other. It’s easy to have playdates and get togethers with friends. There are lots of kids to play with in the compounds so it’s great for their social life. Some folks do keep to themselves so you can have your privacy if that’s what you’re looking for, too.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Virtually everything is available. Imported goods are pricey at Alosra and Waitrose, but less expensive produce and local products are found at Geant, Carrefour, and Lulu’s. The Navy base also has a grocery store but prices are higher than in the States. Still, it’s a great option for finding some of your favorite staples. Alcohol is available at the base. We often complain about having to visit several stores to find everything we want, but really - so much is available. Having lived in Africa, the food availability here is a luxury.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
WWe love our bouncy house that we bought at the last minute before coming. We use it indoors! For about 4 months of the year, it’s too hot to go outside so the kids and their friends really enjoy it. Many families have trampolines in the backyard, which also get a lot of use. In the compounds the kids all ride bikes, tricycles, scooters, etc. Pool gear will also get use.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of fast food but it is more expensive than in the States. All variety of international restaurants abound, food is excellent, and only some of it is cheap. I’d say DC prices or higher, in some cases. If you have access to the Navy base there are a few over there as well. Delivery is a very popular option here, most restaurants and especially fast food have this option available.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some houses have ant problems and occasional flies, but this is definitely not Africa. It’s only a minor annoyance. It is possible to keep doors and windows open without screen covering; however, most keep them closed due to dust.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have an FPO address through the Embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It is easy to find a full-time or part-time helper. It will cost about $400-$475 per month for a full-time, live-in maid (6 days a week, including some evening babysitting). Part-time help costs $5 per hour, so it’s much more expensive to do it that way. The women are predominantly Philipina or Sri Lankan and they speak good English for the most part. They clean, provide some childcare and perhaps even help with a bit of cooking. Quality varies and you will need to interview several people and perhaps even try them out to find a good fit. Though it is easy to find a helper it’s actually quite difficult to find an excellent helper. If you can get a reference from a departing expat, that is ideal. All housemaids are foreign nationals and need visa sponsorship to live in Bahrain. Transferring sponsorship gets complicated, especially if the person has been working for a family that wants to charge a fee for their release. Navigating this process is a hassle but having help in these oversized houses is an incredible perk and can greatly increase the quality of life since we can spend more time with family and friends.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The U.S. Embassy has a small gym, the compounds have gyms of varying quality, and there are several local studios for yoga/spinning/fitness classes. Tennis lessons, sports leagues, and horseback riding are also available. Running is possible for 6-8 months of the year and even some biking is possible if you can brave the roads. Swimming is easy, of course. Some people join one of the Clubs: Dilmun Club, Rugby Club, Yacht Club, Ritz, etc in order to take advantage of their sporting options.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We use both without problem. Beware of foreign transaction fees.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are Catholic, Protestant, and LDS churches.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We get the news online. There are several local papers in English that focus primarily on local issues. International news in English can only be obtained online.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Post language program offers Arabic lessons to those who are interested.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It’s better than in a developing country, but you still don’t find the same accommodation that we have in the States. Ramps are rare, but elevators are common. Sidewalks, when existent, are very inconvenient.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains or buses. Taxis are safe but not super cheap. You really need a car to get around.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any car is suitable but for resale and repair, Toyota, Nissan, and Honda would be easiest. Used cars on the market are overpriced so it’s best to come with a car if you can ship one.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet comes in 3 speeds (slow/decent/pretty good) ranging from $50-150/month. Even the fastest is not as fast as in the States, but with some patience you are able to stream videos and use Skype.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We’re dependent on them.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Incoming pets from the U.S. do not need to be quarantined if you follow the rules for the pet import certificate.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are several good options for pet care, including a local U.K. trained veterinarian and U.S. trained veterinarians on the military base. Because of the extensive expat community, there are also several good kennels to board pets, but most people use pet sitters when they travel, which can be much cheaper.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Currently a couple of family members have jobs on the local economy (art gallery, teaching, health), several others do freelance work (photography, film), and there are many jobs at the Embassy for spouses who want to work. The Embassy is working hard to meet the needs of the spouses who want to work.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business at work; moderately conservative summer clothes outside work; conservative cocktail attire in the evenings. Western dress is completely acceptable here, but you’d feel uncomfortable with sleeveless shirts or short skirts. When going out, people dress up more than I’m used to in the U.S. Between diplomatic functions, evenings out, and the many (optional) balls around town, you will get use of your evening wear. There are great stores here in the mall, but the prices can get exorbitant. I’d advise coming with a well-stocked summer/spring wardrobe.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Since February 2011, there have been ongoing and frequent clashes between protesters and police. These take place in a few key spots on the island which you can mostly avoid, especially by following the daily announcements from the US Embassy. Protesters burn tires, block traffic, and throw Molotov cocktails; police respond by blocking access to the neighborhoods and using tear gas to dispel the groups. To this date, protesters have not targeted Westerners. In many ways it feels as though there are two Bahrains – the bubble we live in on the Western side of the island and these Shia village hotspots where there is nightly activity. At present I feel completely safe and experience only occasional inconveniences from the political unrest. There was an authorized evacuation from March to May 2011 but it’s back to business as usual now. Earlier this year, the US Embassy moved families that were near protest areas to quieter neighborhoods (Jasra/Hamala and Janabiya) so that we would not be affected by the tear gas and road blocks.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
It is dusty, so allergies can be a problem. Medical care is quite good; you would go elsewhere only for highly specialized care.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good most of the time. It can be dusty, particularly during wind storms in the winter.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cool and sunny Dec-Mar (50-70F), warm and sunny Nov-April (80-90F), hot and humid May-Oct (100-120F). Most families, local and expat, leave for July and August when it’s unbearable.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The majority of Embassy kids are at The Bahrain School (DoD) or St. Christopher’s (British). People seem happy with the Bahrain School and a bus takes the kids the 30-45 minute drive to the other side of the island. St. Christopher’s has an excellent reputation and fantastic facilities; the student population is mixed between elite Bahrainis, Western expats, and a smattering of others. You need to apply early and likely won’t get a warm fuzzy reception, but once in, the school families seem to love it. The British School of Bahrain and Riffa Views are also very good options and there is a French school as well, though it’s quite a drive to get there. The British and French schools start at age 3, so it becomes harder to get a spot as the child gets older. Be sure to contact all the schools in advance to find out how and when to enroll. If you show up in August your options are limited.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Pre-schools will accommodate from what I have seen. For older kids there is a good special needs school called The Children’s Academy and it’s right in the neighborhood where many expats live (Hamala).
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are many wonderful preschools to choose from, either with the British or American curriculum. They start at age 2. Early Learners, Little Gems, Budaiya Preschool, British Preparatory School, and The Learning Tree are a few. Our kids go to the Ajyaal Montessori which teaches in Arabic in addition to English. We couldn’t be happier (there is a 6+ month wait list so get on it early). These are 5-day a week, morning-only preschools and they’re not cheap ($4000-6500/year). A few offer the option to go 2-3 days a week. None have after school care, so if both parents plan to work, you will have to rely on a nanny for afternoon care.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes! I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the quality of options here. There are sports teams and classes at the schools; plus there are swimming, music, tennis, gymnastics, soccer, and many others classes outside of school for all ages. Prices are similar to the States – about $12-20/class.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. About 50% of people on the island are expats. Most are maids and laborers and the rest are in the diplomatic, financial, or oil/gas sectors. The U.S. community at the Embassy is about 50 officers plus children. With the naval base here, the total number of Americans is in the thousands.
2. Morale among expats:
Fair to excellent. It’s all about your expectations! Bahrain is not beautiful or exciting, but it can be a really nice life with some great perks. It’s a more relaxed and tolerant environment than the other Gulf countries; there’s also less of the artificial glitz that Dubai has. Work life at the Embassy is busy and can be stressful, so you’ll never be bored. We love it here and are thrilled to serve 3 years in Bahrain. An attitude to make the best of it will take you far. As with anywhere, the people you are with really make a rich experience out of anything.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Your social life can be as busy as you want it to be. There is a ton going on just in the Embassy community, and plenty in the greater community if you prefer, ranging from casual BBQs to evening balls and everything in between.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It can be enjoyable for all, although I think the singles are a bit bored. While there are a variety of nightlife options, the small expatriate community—although larger than most other posts—can quickly become claustrophobic. Couples and singles can find a variety of ways to spend their time, including salsa dancing lessons, cooking lessons, great movie theatres, and some unique cultural offerings.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Being gay or lesbian is technically against the law in Bahrain, although the law is rarely enforced. There is a limited underground gay and lesbian nightlife.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I do not feel any. Many Bahraini women wear the full abaya with head covering and some cover the face as well. It takes some getting used to but overall this is a much more open place than Saudi. In Bahrain women work and drive, and those who do not cover are also accepted. Women are not taunted or harassed like they are in some other places.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Community events, swimming and tennis lessons, trip to IKEA in Saudi, Friday brunches, Spring of Culture performances, and regional travel. Living on a small island, communities can be strong and tight-knit. Opportunities for social gatherings don’t face much competition and are highly enjoyable.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Go to a performance during the Spring of Culture, spend a day at one of the waterparks; hit the mall; learn to scuba dive; throw a pool party; visit the Maldives (or Goa, Jordan, Oman, Israel, Turkey); run the Dubai or Bahrain marathon; host a game night; spring for a day at the Ritz or Sofitel to enjoy their beach; get some clothes tailor-made; plant a garden, learn to sail, enjoy expensive and inexpensive Moroccan spas, or go to trivia night at one of the Irish pubs.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
I can’t say they are unique or truly local, but you’ll likely spend it on rugs, dinners out, travel, house help, and/or preschool. You definitely won’t spend it on gas as filling a car will cost only a few bucks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Regional travel, multi-ethnic cuisine, excellent weather with mild winters, and the opportunity to experience an expatriate-friendly version of the Middle East.
11. Can you save money?
If you’re not paying for housing it’s definitely possible, though you’ll have to make an effort.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. We’re one year into a three year tour and I already know it will be hard to leave. We’ve made wonderful friends, the schools are phenomenal, work is stimulating, and we love the sun.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ski gear. Surfboards.
3. But don't forget your:
Positive attitude, patience on the road, hats, sunglasses, sunblock, and pool toys.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
After the Prophet: The Epic Story of the Shia-Sunni Split in Islam by Lesley Hazelton - a wonderful depiction of the history that still dramatically affects Bahrain today.
