Manama, Bahrain Report of what it's like to live there - 08/08/14
Personal Experiences from Manama, Bahrain
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Third expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. Flight time about 12 hours via Frankfurt or Dubai.
3. How long have you lived here?
2010-2012.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government (Embassy).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Very large homes. Singles and couples without kids live in waterfront luxury, brand new apartments next to City Centre Mall. Families live in spacious duplex or single family homes on gated communities in the suburbs. Commute time is 20-30 minutes, or up to 2 hours if there is a demonstration and police checkpoints.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get anything you want at NSA Bahrain Navy Base commissary. Otherwise, we recommend Geant and Jawad's for great produce and food. There is also a Carrefour french supermarket in City Centre Mall but it's not easy to get in and out of the mall.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Gas mask and kevlar vest. And artificial Christmas Tree.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Pretty much any fast food restaurant in American you will find in Bahrain, from McDonald's to Hardees. Lots of Baskin Robbins and Krispy Kreme. Adliya is a great nightlife area with world-class international restaurants, all very expensive. Expect to pay US$75 for dinner for two with drinks. Best restaurant in Bahrain is Bushidos, which becomes a nightclub at night.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots of geckos in our house. Lots of ants. The occasional mosquito but usually it's too hot for any life forms.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
FPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and plentiful. Filipina maids charge about 2BD or US$6 per hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most housing complexes have gyms. They range from awful to wonderful, most with swimming pools.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most places take credit cards. I would not use an ATM due to high costs. You can cash checks at the Embassy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Unknown, non-religious. But the base chapel has services for all denominations.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Everyone speaks English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. There are few sidewalks, and where there sidewalks, cars are driving or parked on sidewalks. Most old buildings don't have elevators
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains, buses are off limits. Taxis are plentiful but very very expensive. A 20-minute cab ride to the airport will cost about US$45.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A large SUV...not because you will need the 4-wheel drive capabilities, but for the aggressive factor. Drivers here are among the worst.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and expensive. Try MenaTelecom. About US$100 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Embassy provided.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine required. Some vets in town have kennels and "catteries". Nonnie Coutts is the best vet in town.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
We knew of Embassy spouses who worked as English teachers in the economy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal. Men wear suits and ties even in 120F. Women can get away with more, but this is still a conservative country. Cleavage and mini-skirts are NOT ok at work.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
MANY. When we first arrived in Bahrain, it was very safe and you could pretty much go anywhere, anytime. All that changed on Feb. 14, 2011 when the Bahrain Arab Spring began. Since then, life has gotten horrible for expats. Many Western expats evacuated to Dubai. U.S. Embassy went on authorized departure for 3 months. Embassy personnel were moved to safer neighborhoods after we were getting tear-gassed on a nightly basis. When we left in late 2012, things were stabilized to what is now referred to as "the new normal". Embassy personnel are severely restricted in freedom of movement. About half the island is now off-limits. Despite taking all recommended precautions, we were twice caught in the middle of violent demonstrations. In one incident, police on one side of the street were firing tear gas and rubber bullets over our car, while protestors on the other side of the road were hurling rocks and debris at police.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
People with asthma should be concerned about frequent dusty storms and wafting tear gas and smoke from protestors burning tear gas and oil drums. Quality of medical care is surprisingly good. Great dental. Try Seef Dental. And there's a great German hospital.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy. There are regular sand storms in the spring during which you can barely see more than 10 feet in front of you. Many old cars spew exhaust. There are no emissions controls. Oh and did we mention the regular tear gas attacks? Police use tear gas like it's going out of style, attacking demonstrators so often that the tear gas wafts over into residential neighborhoods including embassy compounds.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, hotter and hottest. Temperatures of 120F are not uncommon in the summer, and 100% humidity. The only nice month is mid-December to mid-January when it actually gets cold.And by cold I mean low of 50F. It rains maybe 3 times a year, during which time the streets completely flood because there's no such thing as drainage in this country, and traffic comes to a standstill.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most Embassy families send their kids to DoDs school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Many embassy personnel had kids with special needs, and stated they specifically picked Bahrain because of good special-needs services here.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
When we left, morale was already bad and getting worse. Nearly everyone we know curtailed from post. For more details, read the 2014 OIG report on Manama. Size of expat community is smaller than pre-Arab Spring. Most expats in Bahrain are British who live in Bahrain and commute to the oil fields in Saudi.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
House parties, running away from demonstrations and tear gas, going to bars and private clubs like the British Club, Dilum Club, Rugby Club. Friday Brunch is a fun, all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink experience that you must do. Movenpick hotel has the best brunch in town.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Apparently it's good for families, but I would not come here as a single or couple without kids. Better for young single women if you want to date U.S. Navy personnel. Very few dating opportunities for single men.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
NO!! Homosexuality is illegal. And there are occasional newspaper articles about police raiding underground gay clubs and prosecuting and imprisoning people for homosexual activity.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Bahrain is the most sectarian-divided country I have ever lived. The majority of the population is Muslim, but every aspect of life is dominated by the Sunni-Shia division. The minority Sunni control the Royal Family, government, military and police. The majority Shia are underprivileged, poor, denied basic services and prohibited from serving in the police and military. (The Royal Family import Sunnis from Pakistan and other countries to serve in Bahrain military and police, never mind that they dont speak Arabic). Non-Muslim Westerners are expected to follow Ramadan restrictions such as no eating/drinking/smoking in public. There is a large minority Christian community, mainly Catholic from the large Filipino population. Bahrain often makes a big deal that they respect and appreciate their Jewish minority, but in fact there are less than 40 Bahraini Jews remaining in the country.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Dinner, drinks and swimming at the Dilmun Club. Exploring the Bahrain Fort and National Museum, both of which are surprisingly good. Scuba diving in the murky waters of the east coast.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Cheap flights out of Bahrain to nicer destinations like Dubai, Oman, Qatar, Cyprus and the MALDIVES!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Persian rugs.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Cheap men's suits (US$100) in the souk; touring the Gulf region.
10. Can you save money?
Not if you dine out frequently, or fly out of the country regularly to escape.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That despite being an island, Bahrain has almost NO BEACHES. There is only one real public free beach and it's filthy and frequented by creepy guys and teenagers. All the good beaches are property of the Royal Family, located on military bases, or 5-star hotels. You can only visit the hotel beaches if you are a guest or pay US$5,000 or more per year for beach club membership.
I wish I had known that I could have curtailed before arriving with little to no consequence.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely NOT.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes; skimpy outfits for women; cheery disposition and optimism. Abandon all hope ye who enter.
4. But don't forget your:
Gas mask.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
Bahrain is no longer the Pearl of the Middle East that it was considered pre-2011. You should give strong consideration before moving here.
