Manama, Bahrain Report of what it's like to live there - 04/12/17
Personal Experiences from Manama, Bahrain
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this was my fifth overseas experience. My first in the Middle East/GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council, مجلس التعاون الخليجي), is a regional intergovernmental political and economic union consisting of all Arab states of the Persian Gulf, except for Iraq. Its member states are Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates.) I have lived in East and Southeast Asia, Africa and Europe as an expat.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I am from the West Coast of the USA. From Bahrain, or any of the GCC countries to California (for example) is about 20+ hours depending on connections. To the East Coast (Washington, DC) it is at least 14 hours (with connections). There used to be a United flight that went from IAD to Kuwait City (for an hour) then onto Bahrain. This was the most direct flight, however none of the US carriers fly to the Middle East anymore due to the inability to compete with Emirates, Qatar, Etihad, and Turkish Airways. With the recent ban on electronics in hand-carry luggage, Lufthansa or British Airways would be the ideal way to go. Depending on which city you're originating from in the U.S. - Lufthansa or British Airways or KLM could be your contract carrier if you're traveling on U.S. government travel orders.
3. How long have you lived here?
I lived there for exactly two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is generally good - U.S. embassy personnel were assigned to villas (if they had families), or apartments. The embassy had recently acquired apartments in a tower near the chancery, making for a very short commute to work.
I lived on the other side of the island, on an artificial island in a very nice three bedroom apartment/condo. I liked my housing very much, and I think people were generally happy with it - having said that, there were always complainers. Traffic from that particular location can be bad (you have to pass two large shopping malls which are the center of activity on weekends, creating for bad traffic on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays). Due to the events of the Arab spring, the most express routes to the Embassy were closed off by the government - so, while it wasn't far in terms of distance, it could take up to 30 minutes to get to work depending on traffic.
Employees who lived in villas commuted from an area near the causeway to Saudi Arabia. This was mostly highway driving, however due to the flow of traffic in the mornings and evenings, and several choke-points in the infrastructure - their commutes could be as bad one hour or more if they didn't time their departures correctly.
Some of the private sector expats had extremely nice housing, and personnel from the U.S. Navy base who were authorized off-base housing had very nice apartments in an area called "Amwaj" (also a series of artificial islands). However, commute times could vary depending on where you had to work.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries were expensive. If you have access to the U.S. Navy base then I would suggest shopping there for household goods and beverages. Having said that, you could get better produce at the local markets, but at a cost. Overall, my biggest complaint was about the lack of fresh fruits and vegetables. However, one could generally find everything one would find in his/her home countries if one knew were to look - even pork products.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Since you can't ship fresh produce, nothing really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Excellent South Asian and Thai food - albeit prices can vary (and I'm not talking about the overpriced, flavorless restaurants that appeal to most Westerners). There were some good Italian places, but pricey, and one good Japanese restaurant in a hotel (with an actual Japanese head chef), but extremely pricey. With the exception of Nepali food, and one Thai restaurant, and one Chinese restaurant - nothing was worth writing home about. Generally overpriced, and underwhelming food and service.
There is a food delivery service that will deliver from almost all of the chain restaurants, and many of the more well known local restaurants - also, if you have a favorite restaurant, they will probably deliver as well if you ask them to.
GCC nationals LOVE American fast food, so every single American fast food chain (with the exception of maybe Popeye's and Wendy's?) is represented in Bahrain. There is also a Taco Bell on base (not my cup of tea, but people inevitably ask if there is a Taco Bell). Starbucks is everywhere, there is also Coffee Bean, Costa Coffee, and Caribou.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing out of the ordinary, plenty of ants and cockroaches, but otherwise you don't see too many signs of life.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the Embassy or the DPO. The DPO was very quick. I had something FEDEX'd to me once from the US, it got to me quickly, but there was a lot of confusion and back and forth about the address. Bahrain Post is not known for its efficiency and reliability - and because of the DPO I hardly ever used the local mail system.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Everyone had some sort of domestic help, although it's not as cheap as in Southeast Asia, Africa, or other places. I paid ten Bahraini Dinar (about 27USD) for a half-day. If you want full time, it's obviously going to be more, although if they are live-in then you may not have to pay as much. Also, if you have a full-time employee you will be responsible for their return plane tickets once a year, their work permit, and I believe some sort of social security payments. The Bahraini authorities are pretty strict about this - so keep that in mind. For part-time, you can shop around and find another domestic helper who has a few hours to spare and may save money that way. I was definitely paying more than a lot of people, but my housekeeper was excellent.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a gym, as did my building. Most of the villa compounds have some sort of gym, but they aren't maintained well, so if you're a hardcore workout addict - you'll have to go elsewhere. The Navy base also has a gym, but it's often crowded (not sure about the cost). There are nice gyms around the island, including a very nice 24 Hour fitness, but they can be pretty pricey. Some other people I know bought memberships at the "Rugby Club" (closer to the villa compounds and the Saudi causeway) which had a gym and pool facility - they seemed satisfied - I believe the membership was about $600-1000 a year for a single, but this included access to their restaurants, bars, and events. It's also the only place to drink alcohol during Ramadan, and probably one of the only places that serves food during the day during Ramadan. Also a good venue to meet other expats and well-to-do locals.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Generally widely accepted, but it depends on what type of business you are dealing with. A nice restaurant, Starbucks, or a store inside the malls - then of course they take credit cards. Local places inside the "souq," or cheaper South Asian restaurants - then definitely not. ATMs are safe as far as I know, however I had my American debit card rejected by many of the Middle Eastern banks. Best to save yourself hassle and look for an international bank like Standard Chartered, HSBC, or Citibank.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I am not religious, but there are plenty of non-Muslim Christian services throughout the island, as well as Hindu, and possibly Sikh. Not sure of any Jewish or Buddhist services available.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Arabic, none really. The Arabs will think it's cute if you try to speak Arabic, so it may help in making friends - but most, even those with a bad education can speak some English. All the wait staff at restaurants and hotels are Indians, Filipinos, Pakistanis, and other third country nationals that don't speak Arabic. Even the Bahrainis must communicate with them in English, so you'll be fine speaking English and never learning Arabic. There are local classes available, but some of them can be rather pricey. The embassy offers classes, but they are centered around more formal conversations and less relevant to day-to-day life.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely - no transportation, bad sidewalks, Arabs don't walk anywhere because it's too hot, so if you can't drive yourself you're not going anywhere.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I am pretty sure U.S. Embassy personnel weren't allowed to take the buses, regardless, the buses don't go anywhere, and are impossible to figure out (were only used by third country migrant workers). Taxis are safe, but not super cheap - and they had recently started an Uber service, however there were frequently no cars available.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I always think it's funny when I see responses to this question - most diplomats always say to bring something that you don't care about, as it it will get beat-up; this is often not true. While from a financial perspective it makes sense not to buy a brand new car and send it overseas, at the same time you won't look very official if you're driving a clunker. Particularly in the GCC - most of the private sector expats have very nice cars, and the Arabs love cars - I know it seems silly, but people often will take you more seriously if you're driving a nice car. When you roll up to the Ritz-Carlton or the Four Seasons in your 1990s used whatever, people will not take you seriously.
Personally, I would recommend a nice SUV. You can get parts for just about any make and model (even U.S. models - gas guzzling cars are popular). Due to the fact that a LOT of parking is improvised (and thus parking in dirt/sand/jumping curbs), you're better off getting something that has all-wheel drive and good ground clearance. Parts are readily available, but can be quite pricey, however labor generally isn't (even at dealers).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Well yes, but it's not very good. Some of the apartment buildings had it included, but don't expect exceptional speeds. Having said that, even if you pay for it, it's expensive and not very fast. Most of the internet is not true cable or DSL, it's a re-broadcast 4G/LTE signal. So you're basically just using an amplified cellular signal, which is OK for streaming, but slow for downloading large volumes of data, and snails pace for uploads. I know some people had actual DSL lines in their houses, but you had to go through the state telephone company "BATELCO," which meant it could take weeks to setup, and even then the speeds were crappy. All this coupled with major internet censors/filters meant endless frustration. You'll probably end up paying $70-$100 a month for bad internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
VIVA is the best - unlike internet in the house, the LTE on my phone was ok (albeit still censored). For about $30 a month I got 10GB, and discounted calling international calling if I needed it. I rarely exceeded the 10GB amount data package. Also, because VIVA is owned by Saudi Telecom, if you traveled within the GCC you could subscribe to data add-on packages while roaming, so for an extra $10 - 15 you could get unlimited data roaming while in the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman, Qatar, Kuwait, etc. If you were a frequent regional traveler like myself, then it's a very convenient option to have.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are, but not sure about how many or the number of them. I am not sure about quarantine, but based upon what I saw - I think it's relatively easy to import a pet. Keep in mind that dogs aren't loved in Arab culture as they are considered dirty, so you'll see a lot of stray dogs just wandering around. Rich Arabs do keep house dogs though.
Cats are considered powerful and magical, so you'll also see stray cats everywhere as people are afraid to touch them as they believe they possess magic (I'm not kidding) - having said that, people will often feed them, etc to stay on their "good side."
Personally, I wouldn't bring a dog to Bahrain, unless it's really really small house dog that can only be indoors. It's too hot, there aren't many places for them to run around, and Arabs generally hate them.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Well there were many oil sector related jobs before the crash of the oil price, but now a lot of those jobs are gone. There are some opportunities in international schools, and if you're affiliated with the US Navy base or embassy each of those places will have some opportunities. Otherwise, there may be some in hospitality industry, but of those jobs are given to Filipino, Indian, Nepali, and other South and Southeast Asian workers as they will work for way less the money. Having said that, if you get a job working at an Arab petrol-industry related firm, you will be paid nicely (often more than the locals). There is also no income tax, so depending on the tax situation in your country of origin, you may be able to net a considerable amount of that paycheck.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Not many that I am aware of, GCC nationals don't tend to be very philanthropic - however, I do believe my colleague's spouse volunteered at animal rescue? Maybe? Don't expect many opportunities.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
During Ramadan I would recommend dressing more conservatively. Arab men in professional and government positions will typically dress in suits, or traditional clothing. Arab women in similar positions will always dress in traditional clothing. Having said that, due to Bahrain being the destination of sin in the region, you will see plenty of scantily clad women running around in nightclubs at night, and while people may stare at you if you're dressed less than conservatively, no one is going to say anything. There is no religious police unlike in some of the neighboring countries.
There aren't specific dress codes that are enforced with the exception of some high-end restaurants or night clubs - however, if you're going for any sort of official meeting I would suggest dressing as nicely as possible if you want people to take you seriously.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime isn't a major concern, occasionally one hears of the attempted purse snatching. People will definitely try and steal your mobile phone if you leave it unattended. However, Bahrain, like most of the GCC is basically a police state, and it's also an island. You won't get away with serious crimes, so people generally don't try. Murder is rare, and guns are unheard of.
There is a considerable risk for a terror attack. ISIS has threatened to strike Bahrain. Since the Arab spring there are weekly protests in Shia neighborhoods, resulting in clashes between the police and young men. Cars often get burnt, and there is a police presence everywhere. It generally won't affect the areas that expats frequent, but if you happen to make a wrong turn, you could end up in the crossfire between police and protesters. Luckily the protesters don't have guns, but they do have Molotov cocktails, and rocks. The police fire rubber bullets and tear gas - just be mindful of your surroundings at all times.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
If you have a problem with heat, then you're going to have some major problems. Medical care is fine, most of the doctors are trained in the West, so that's good. However, the facilities aren't generally impressive, and the nursing staff tend to be third country nationals who aren't well trained. You'll be fine in an emergency situation, but for a long-term ongoing problem, or to have a baby, I would definitely leave the country.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not great, a lot of dust storms during and right before the summer. The winters can be quite nice, it just depends on how much sand blows in from the Arabian peninsula. I am not sure how much it affects people's health on a regular basis, but if you have respiratory issues then you're going to have problems during the big storms.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
I can't really comment on this - you can avoid eating most things that people are generally allergic to.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No one should be suffering from SAD in the Middle East - there is plenty of sun. Having said that, and as liberal as Bahrain is for the region, the culture can be frustrating and is definitely chauvinistic. Also, you're on an island with no where to really go, so this may bother some people. The region as a whole can be rather limiting, and you'll often have fantasies of being anywhere else but the Middle East.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, and then really hot, and then mild for a brief time between December and February. It's hard to predict - but evenings after November until about March can be quite nice, and may even require a light jacket. During the daytime, you may see a low that may require to you wear a light jacket on an extremely cold day. It can occasionally rain during this season, and because the infrastructure wasn't designed to handle rain, the roads become totally chaotic. The embassy often floods when it rains heavily (which is maybe once a year).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Many people sent their kids to the school on the US Navy base, others sent them to the British school (which is better but not US curriculum). There is a small Japanese school as well. I don't have any personal experience with this, but nobody raved about the schools. In the grand scheme of international schools, I think Bahrain's were pretty average.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I can't comment on this directly, but I believe there are very limited accommodations available.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but I can't elaborate as I don't have personal experience. I know my colleagues' children were heavily involved in many different types of sports.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large for the size of the country. Since the fall of the oil price, a lot the expat jobs have evaporated, and thus so have the expats. Bahrain is consistently voted as a top destination for expats (not entirely sure why, I am guessing because of the relatively liberal atmosphere for the region?). All the expats who live in the oil rich Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia come to Bahrain on the weekends. From their perspective, Bahrain is like an adult Disneyland - there are nightclubs, bars, alcohol, mediocre beaches, more alcohol, pork, and most things they can't get in Saudi Arabia. They also have the money to spend on inflated hotel room prices, brunches, and overpriced beers. So, overall morale is good outside of the Embassy.
Morale inside the Embassy was so-so at best. People who are Middle East-philes, and speak Arabic aren't putting Bahrain at the top of their list as career making posts. So most people who end up there do so because a) it's their first assignment so they didn't have much of a choice, or b) they couldn't get a job elsewhere. No one is ecstatic to be there, and most of the U.S. Embassy assignments are three years - and it's a long three years. The local Embassy staff are often third country nationals, who don't work well with the Bahrainis, and there is a lot animosity between the two groups. Each perceive the other as being treated more fairly by the Americans, when in fact the American supervisors generally just don't want to get involved. The third country nationals also can't speak Arabic, and can't accomplish anything when dealing with the host government; and the local Bahraini employees are exclusively Shia, which meant they also couldn't accomplish anything with the Sunni government. It all makes for a very frustrating work environment.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Generally going out to bars and night clubs, and doing this all day massive brunches on the weekends at one of the hotels. You can also become a member of the Rugby Club, or some other international clubs.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's OK for families - they tended to be happy, although there aren't many open air, green venues, to take your kids to if that's your thing. But, families tend to be happy.
Singles: tougher situation - if you're a heterosexual male, you've got a limited dating pool, as the Bahraini girls won't date a foreigners (they generally don't go out at night), and the expat females can get any guy they want since there are so many more men than woman out and about.
For heterosexual females- if you're not looking for anything too serious you can definitely meet someone. If you're looking for something more serious, then you still may find something you want. If you're just looking for fun, and you don't mind dating a local guy, or a young guy from the U.S. military - then you really won't have any problem.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
This is another funny question. I think it's intended to ask where or not there is a open social scene for the LGBT community, or if they have equal rights. However, it really can mean a lot of things. The short answer is no, the longer answer is more complicated. But I would describe the Middle East as one of the "gayest places in the world."
If you're a man, and you're just looking for other physical contact with other men - then the Middle East and Bahrain are excellent destinations for you. Arab culture has a long history of sexual relationships with other men, despite the fact that they deny that homosexuality exists in their culture. Men, especially Arab men seeking Westerners, will easily initiate physical relationships, as long as they are the "man." The concept of "gay" doesn't really exist, they are just having "fun." There are also at least two venues in Manama, that while not openly gay, are only frequented by men seeking other men.Most Bahraini men, and Arab men would never consider themselves gay, but if they understand the Western concept of gay and straight, a large percentage will admit to being bisexual if they actually decide to tell the truth. It's a phenomena that many Westerners have a hard time wrapping their minds around. Men sleeping with men is basically no big deal as long as you don't talk about it in public.
However, if you're looking for more substantial relationships, or a community, then you will be disappointed. While I did know some Bahrainis who had homosexual relationships, they had to be very careful to hide it from their families.
There are quite a few transgender Asian people, and transgender Arabs that I observed in relationships with Arab men. These types of relationships are a lot more accepted as the male to female is perceived as basically a woman.
Lesbians on the other hand, while I did observe what I thought were probably lesbians, especially from the really really rich GCC countries (Kuwait, Qatar, Emirates)- this is even more taboo than being a gay male. I talked to some Bahrainis who said they had lesbian friends, but I've never personally encountered a lesbian from the GCC. I think lesbians would have a very hard time meeting people for even the most basic of needs. I could be wrong though.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Only between the Shias and the Sunnis - and even they act like they get along just fine, even though there are deep seated animosities. The Sunnis control the place, but are only 20% of the native population, whereas the Shias are 80%. The Sunnis get the best jobs, the best housing, the best connections to the government etc, where as the Shias are marginalized.
Gender equality? Don't even get me started, while I said there aren't religious police, women do not have equal rights.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Going to Oman! I loved Oman! The nature is beautiful, the people are nice, and it's close to Bahrain.
There are direct flights to many major European cities, and Cyprus (only about 3.5 hour flight). Direct flights to Bangkok (6.5 hours), and Manila (about 9 hours). The downside is because Arabs can afford to travel, there are rarely good deals. Be prepared to spend a lot on airfare, and getting off the island.Even to other regional destinations like Dubai, Muscat, and Amman.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Not really. I mean, going to Oman? Oman is a hidden gem I believe (although it attracts quite a bit of tourism already).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really. I bought some nice carpets but I think if you shop around in Dubai you can get them for cheaper; and you can get some decent wood furniture made cheaper than you would other places. Otherwise, nothing out of the ordinary. People would have clothes tailored/altered, but the quality and fabrics weren't as good as in Bangkok or Hong Kong.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Well it's all relative - it's probably the best place in the GCC. People rave about Dubai, but I found Dubai to be overpriced, and underwhelming. It's also a lot more of a religious police state than Bahrain. You'd never hear about an unmarried couple being jailed for kissing on the beach or holding hands in public in Bahrain, but in the Emirates these things happen. Overall, I guess the biggest advantage is that it is "Middle East Lite," - it really isn't the worst place in the world, but unless you haven't lived anywhere better, you'll be happy to leave when you're time is up.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I had a good idea of what I was getting myself into.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I mean, it was fine while I was there, but I wouldn't go back for another assignment - or for that matter anywhere in the region (with the exception of maybe Oman).
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, expectations of good service, polite driving habits, grandiose dreams of saving money if you work for the government, and work ethic (private sector expats excluded). The notion that all GCC countries are as fancy and as glitzy as Dubai - Bahrain once had the potential, but in a lot of ways its the unattractive sibling of Qatar and the UAE. Also the idea that all GCC Arabs are extremely conservative and religious. Most Bahrainis that I knew drink, and engage in all the other vices that Westerners do.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen if you burn easily, and a nice car if you can afford it. There isn't much to do except look good in your car and go to high end restaurants and lounges.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I think there is a book about the early history of Bahrain under the Brits that may be interesting. Bahrain was where oil was first discovered in the Middle East, so there has to be some literature on that - otherwise, it's sort of sleepy place historically. I would watch the movie "Syriana" as Bahrain is the real life manifestation of the prototypical petrol state that has totally squandered its wealth, and teeters on the verge of domestic conflagration. Also "The Kingdom," cheesy, but since Saudi Arabia is just over yonder, why not? I actually think "The Kingdom" accurately represents life in Saudi Arabia.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Like I said - it's not a bad place, but it's not the best place. I did make some very good friends, some of whom I would even consider going to visit in the future. If you have to go to the Middle East, this is definitely one of the better places to go.
