Sofia, Bulgaria Report of what it's like to live there - 02/09/08
Personal Experiences from Sofia, Bulgaria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've lived in Cairo, London, Madrid, and Mexico City.
2. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Through Frankfurt or Milan it's about 15 hours including layovers.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I was there for corporate work.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Foreigners tend to live in apartments in Lozenets very close to the city center. Others live in chalet-style homes in Boyana and Dragalevci, lovely neighborhoods with many green areas and less pollution. There is a massive real-estate boom at the moment and you will see new neighborhoods and very cool apartment buildings being built.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are comparable to the U.S. in terms of price. There are a number of the German Metro supermarket chains which offer good variety. Carrefour is set to open its flagship hypermarket in Sofia very soon.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None, you can find pretty much anything here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Sofia has an excellent variety of restaurants at great value. Bulgarian cuisine is not well-known around the world but it is of great quality. The pork and salads in Bulgaria are among the best I have ever eaten.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
All the major courier companies are here (DHL, FEDEX, UPS, TNT) although they are expensive. Bulgaria Post is less expensive but it is SLOW.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
About 10 Euros a day.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is still a cash-based society. Outside of restaurants, shops, malls and other established outlets, people expect to be paid in cash. That being said there are numerous ATMs all over Sofia.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few protestant churches that have English language services and if you are Catholic there is a service in ancient Latin available.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The Sofia Echo is the English language newspaper. English language TV is available in your standard cable package. Basic cable will run you about 30 Euros a month.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Many younger Bulgarians speak English or other major European languages. Older people tend to speak only Bulgarian. Learning Bulgarian is definitely necessary if you wish to know the culture better and participate in business.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many older buildings in Central Sofia do not have elevators, some streets are in need of repair, and people tend to park on the sidewalks making it difficult for people with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right, like in continental Europe and the U.S.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Very affordable and improving. The Sofia mayor is intent on modernizing public transport. Trams are being modernized and the subway (underground) system is being expanded at the moment to cope with the enormous growth of the city.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The streets in Central Sofia are very small and crowded. For this reason I would recommend bringing a small SUV - this allows you to explore the beautiful countryside in comfort and not have problems with parking in Sofia.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes and of good quality. About 25-30 Euros a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
M-Tel, Globul and Vivatel are the biggest companies. I recommend buying an unlocked cell phone and buying a GSM card and using pre-paid cards.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
You can purchase calling cards from any newsstand and they are reasonably priced. VOIP is a good option if you have high speed internet.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are a few places of good quality. Bulgarians love dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
A growing number if you speak Bulgarian. The economy is booming and with the current demographics the country will need to begin attracting high quality employees.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress tends to be more formal than the U.S. Suit and tie are necessary at most offices.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The area in and around the Central Railway Station has some pickpockets. There is organized crime although they do not target people outside their circle. Otherwise it's much safer than any major U.S. city.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Tokuda Hospital is part of a Japanese healthcare company recently opened its doors and offers very good care. Bulgarian doctors are trained to a very high level but until recently facilities were antiquated. With the recent EU accession of Bulgaria and the booming economy, there is significant investment being pumped into the health care sector, clinics like Tokuda now offer state of the art equipment found in any major hospital in Western Europe or the U.S.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Continental weather: very cold winters and warm summers. You have the four seasons here.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American College of Sofia (ACS) calls itself the oldest American school abroad and many of its graduates attend prestigious universities in the U.S. and in Europe. The Anglo-American School of Sofia is a newer school but has a good reputation among the expat community. There are public schools in Bulgaria that teach exclusively in foreign languages like French or Spanish that have a good reputation internally.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
ACS and other international schools have standard Special-Ed programs for children with learning disabilities.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Plenty of daycare options available at very good rates.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are a few Americans (mainly embassy personnel and a growing number of business people).There is a large British community that has retired here. Other major European languages and even Japanese are heard frequently in the streets of Sofia due to the growing number of tourists visiting this country.
2. Morale among expats:
Very high in general although there are a few of the first-time inexperienced expats who only complain.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plenty of excellent nightclubs in Sofia. Theater is of good quality. It is easy to make good friends in Bulgaria. People are shy at the beginning but after building up trust, they become life-long friends.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for singles, couples and families with children. With the extremely low birth-rate most Bulgarians love children and treat them as royalty in most restaurants, malls, and shops.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Bulgarians tend to view gays with suspicion but the overall climate is tolerant. One of the main chalga stars is a Gay Roma known as Asis.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No, Bulgarians are among the most tolerant people in Europe. Foreigners are treated with respect and many Westerners feel very welcome among Bulgarians.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Going out to eat, nightclubs in Sofia, and visiting expositions in museums. Skiing in Vitosha is only a short drive away (and that's only in Sofia). In the countryside there are numerous monasteries, ancient walled cities and fantastic skiing in Bansko and Pamporovo. In the summer the beaches of the Black Sea are refreshing. Greece, Turkey, and other great Balkan destinations are only a short drive or flight away.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are lovely wooden handricafts and clay pots in the countryside. The wine is of very good quality.
9. Can you save money?
Absolutely. Sofia and Bulgaria in general is very reasonable in comparison with Western Europe. Prices have increased in the past year and the U.S. Dollar will buy you less these days.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely, Sofia is a very interesting eclectic city offering numerous jewels to discover. The country is very beautiful and great to explore. You will find some monasteries and historic cities and feel like you are the first foreigner to discover the place.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Impatience, things run at a different pace here.
3. But don't forget your:
Winter clothing, it can get very chilly here in the winter.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Bulgaria joined the European Union on January 2007 and is experiencing a huge economic boom seen most evidently in construction of buildings, malls and infrasture like highways. This is a very interesting time to live in this city and witness the incredible changes that seem to happen practically overnight.
