Hong Kong, China Report of what it's like to live there - 06/12/10
Personal Experiences from Hong Kong, China
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Athens, Nassau, Tashkent, Vancouver, Frankfurt, Pretoria.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Philadelphia. Flights through Newark, Chicago or San Francisco. Total travel time is about 20 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 1/2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate Employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is mostly in apartments, either in downtown area (Wan Chai) or on south side of the island. The Consulate owns a big complex on the south side in Shouson Hill that they just did a major renovation on. It's now beautiful, although perhaps a bit isolated. Most new arrivals will be sent there this summer, which means that next summer most will probably wind up in Bamboo Grove, a nice high rise tower in Wan Chai. Not the biggest apartments you'll ever live in, but they're nice, and for Hong Kong, they're really nice.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get everything here. Probably a bit more expensive in general than in the US, sometimes much more so.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing. You can get everything here, and what you can't you can order to be shipped via the DPO.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
TONS! Most of the US fast food chains are here, but there are restaurants everywhere, with new ones opening up and old ones closing all the time. Almost every cuisine you can think of in all price ranges.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not a major issue. They have mosquitoes and roaches on the streets like anywhere else, but nothing too problematic.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have a DPO and the pouch. Hongkong Post is quick, reliable and cheap, particularly if you're going to mail somewhere other than the US.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There are tens of thousands of Philippina and Indonesian domestic helpers here, and it won't be long before you are approached either to take on a person full time (must be live in - most quarters, even the downtown apartments, include servants quarters) and they work for six days a week, or a few hours on the sly (technically not permitted, but appears to be common practice).Monthly contracts are a paltry US$600/month or so, although workers on the sly charge by the hour (about US$8).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Good gyms either within the complexes where you live, or in membership gyms all over the place. Decent pools are a bit harder to find. Typically they are too short, shallow, and/or crawling with children.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Commonplace and ubiquitous.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Everything.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
South China Morning Post is a world class daily English-language local newspaper, and there are several others. Cable gives you tons of English language channels on TV.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is pervasive. Signage and all official business is conducted in English. Most Hong Kongers know English pretty well, even the cabbies. If they don't, they will hand you the radio to speak to their dispatcher who will translate for you. It would be nice to know some Cantonese (or perhaps some Mandarin, although it's not what's really spoken here), but you can definitely and comfortably get along without it.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be a bit of a challenge. This city is hilly and crowded, and people bump into each other a lot. Infrastructure isn't particularly designed for disabled people, although the crossing signals all beep for the blind.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are EVERYWHERE and they are really reasonably priced. Public transport is excellent, extensive and pretty cheap, although it's often quite crowded.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A car is generally not necessary, and it's very difficult to import one, so don't bother (They drive on the left in Hong Kong, so if it's not a right-side drive car, don't even think about trying).Second hand cars can be cheap here, but the flip side of that is that you will get little resale value for your car here. If you live in the city center, you will almost never miss not having a car. If you live on the south side of the island, you should consider one, especially if you have kids. Parking is a major hassle and taxis are cheap and everywhere - don't burden yourself with a car if you don't have to.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Readily available. Maybe US$45/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I stick with what the consulate provides, but all kinds of phones and cell plans are out there. This is a very wired city, probably more advanced than any city in the US in this respect.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, although I believe that under certain circumstances that can be bypassed.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
That's my understanding. Lots of people have pets here. The local SPCA has lots of cats and dogs to offer (note: it is illegal to declaw cats in Hong Kong).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes. Work permits are generally not a hassle, and I haven't really come across anyone who wants meaningful work but can't find it.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire - suit and tie during the work week. Tons of excellent and well priced tailors around the city will make sure that you are snazzily dressed. Get it all made here!After hours can be very casual. It is okay to walk around the city in t-shirt, shorts and flip flops.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None. This place is really, really safe. Even if you lose things in a taxi (wallet, phone), it's commonplace for them to find you and return it to you.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Not really, except maybe those who are particularly sensitive to air pollutants. This area is near to the epicenter of major Asian outbreaks of communicable diseases like bird flu, SARS, etc., so they are extra vigilant and cautious about outbreaks whenever they pop up. Health care is excellent here, especially childbirth - fancy pampering!Lots of families choose to have children here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not the best. Much better than the rest of China, but it can get pretty bad sometimes with all the pollutants wafting down from the mainland China factories upriver. I tend not to notice much or be affected by it much, but others do. For about a week earlier this year, there was a particularly bad stretch where it was really bad and the pollution index literally went off the charts. You could see the thick cloud just roll in.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
I'm not a huge fan of the weather here. It is often hot and humid, and you just drip with sweat after even a short walk outside. Two winters ago here was pretty nice, with blue sky and mild temperatures, but this past winter has been incredibly gray and cloudy. In can get surprisingly chilly in the winter, and most places don't have heating, so you definitely want a few space heaters (GSO provides two for places that don't have heating, but I would try to get at least one more).Summers have seen frequent typhoons.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Don't have kids, but I know the schools here are great. Parents are really, really happy with them. Hong Kong International School (HKIS) is particularly popular, so work with CLO ASAP to ensure that you can secure a spot.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I know that there are schools here for special needs, although you have to specify what the need is, since they may have challenges addressing certain needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Don't know about pre-school, although I'm sure it's readily available. Almost everyone gets Philippina/Indonesian domestic helpers full time if they have children. It's cheap, good quality labor and a routine practice among the expats of Hong Kong.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes - many of the school sports teams compete regionally with their counterparts throughout Asia.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Enormous. This is probably the most cosmopolitan city in Asia, with expats from everywhere. Mostly it's high-flying international banking/business types. Not a huge diplomatic community here, but still respectable.
2. Morale among expats:
Excellent. Almost everyone loves it.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Tons - as much or as little as you have an appetite for.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a great city for everyone. Singles love it, childless couples, families - it has it all for everyone.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Pretty good. Among the expat crowd there's a fair sized community and a handful of bars. Hong Kong started its first Gay Pride parade two years ago, they have an annual Gay and Lesbian Film Festival and the city is very blase about homosexuality. Within the local Chinese community, it's a bit of a different story. It's a pretty taboo subject, and most local Chinese gays are pretty uptight and closeted.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No,no,no. There seems to be no racial tension here at all. Chinese Hong Kongers display no sense of resentment or hostility to Westerners or third world nationals here. Everyone goes about their own business.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Dragonboat races (watching and participating), Rugby Sevens, sunday dim sum brunches, Wednesday evenings in the beer garden at the horse races in Happy Valley, trips around the region.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Where to start. Any hobby or interest can be pursued here. Hiking is a very common pastime, and there are green trails all over the place, amazingly close to the urban center. There's a Disneyland and its (better)rival, Ocean Park, which has pandas, dolphin shows, rides and aquariums. The consulate sponsors an annual dragonboat team in the spring/early summer. Day trips to Macau to check out the casinos or the big concerts. Tons of shopping.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Electronics (not really unique, but cutting-edge technology - things are often available here before they are released in the US). Local Chinese furniture - particularly from Macau or across the border in Shenzhen or Zhuhai.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Great cosmopolitan city - all kinds of dining, shopping, entertainment. Great transportation hub.
11. Can you save money?
I suppose if you tried, but why would you want to? Life in Hong Kong is what money is for.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Most definitely. This is an awesome place and everybody loves it.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
suits, work shirts - get them made here!
3. But don't forget your:
don't worry - you can find anything here.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Suzie Wong, Tai Pan,
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Infernal Affairs
6. Do you have any other comments?
It's been a great assignment. I've really enjoyed Hong Kong. I wouldn't want to make it my permanent home, but many expats try hard to extend here, or stay on after retiring here.
