Libreville, Gabon Report of what it's like to live there - 08/03/11
Personal Experiences from Libreville, Gabon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
no, Bangladesh, Japan
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Texas. 10 hours to Frankfurt, 7 hours from Frankfurt to Libreville
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years May 2009- June 2011
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
government (department of State)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Depending on traffic, 20 minutes is good. Over an hour is bad. There is really only one major route, so when the president is moving, the road gets closed down, causing a lot of traffic jams. Housing is big and nice.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find almost anything if you are willing to pay for it. EVERYTHING (including most fruit & veggies) is imported. Groceries can be very expensive, but if you are with DOS this is a consumables post. We brought everything (canned goods, alcohol, shampoo,toilet paper, baking supplies) with us. I was told early on that if you see something in the stores you like, then buy multiples, as it may not be there again. Most stores offer French products. There is a small American store (not embassy operated).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Food comforts from home, car parts (tires, wipers, oil), BBQ charcoal, all baking supplies.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food at all. Most restaurants open late for dinner (8pm). There are a lot of French restaurants, as there is a strong French influence. Also: Chinese, Italian, Japanese (sushi), Lebanese, American (sort-of). Fresh seafood. Anywhere from cheap side-of-the-road local cuisine to very expensive "5 star" dining. Baguettes are a staple.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There is an abundance of fruits and vegetables, but I am not sure about organic or allergy-friendly foods.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes with malaria.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I never used the local post, as the embassy provided mail services.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Local help is available but is much more expensive than in other developing countries, as the cost of living is high.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I didn't take chances, but I know there were a couple ATM machines. Didn't use credit cards locally. Did a lot of online shopping through the embassy pouch, and our credit card numbers were stolen, but that could happen anywhere
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
No, but there are local catholic, protestant, and muslim services.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
No. Only French. But I think some people had satellite for English TV. We just had the three AFN (Armed Forces Network) channels.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
There is little to no English, so French is a definite asset.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lots. The sidewalks (if there are any) are in poor shape, and many buildings do not have access for wheelchairs.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I never took a train or bus. Taxis are relatively safe but aggressive, and you must barter for a fair price (in French) and insist on a private ride, or the driver will fill the car with passengers along the way. ALWAYS agree on a price BEFORE departure.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring an older SUV, as fender-benders are common. Driving can be very aggressive. In the city a car would be fine, but as soon as you are off the major roads a 4 x 4 would be best. Reasonable mechanics are available but can be expensive. Gas is expensive, and fuel companies go on strike often, so keep your tank full. Imported cars are expensive, so people will line up to buy your vehicle. I have never heard of a carjacking, but foreigners are often blamed for accidents, even if they are not at fault.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed? Not really. Internet service was unreliable and expensive. Frequent power outages often meant no internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Got mine locally (pay as you go), and it was fine. Phone cards can be purchased almost anywhere, including from guys on the side of the road.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Our cat didn't.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are two vets that we went to. Happy with both.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No, especially if you don't have French. Certified American teachers would be an asset to the American school.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It's hot, so wear light material. I wore skirts almost every day and sandals 24-7.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really, it's a fairly safe and politically secure country. Just use common sense.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Adequate. EMS services are not great. Ambulance drivers are not trained.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. This is a very sparsely-populated country.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, humid, and long rainy seasons and short dry seasons. I preferred June - July as it was cloudy and not as hot. My husband preferred the rest of the year, as it was hot and sunny.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American International School of Libreville. I taught there. It was a K-8 when I was there, but I think they are expanding it to a K-10 this year. It follows the American curriculum and is accredited. It is a small school with dedicated staff. Small classroom size, but most classes are combined (i.e Pre-k-k, 1-2, 3-4 etc). But as a certified teacher, I know there are many benefits to multi-age classrooms.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
AISL has many students on Individual Education Plans. There are many stairs, so it would be difficult for students with physical needs. To my knowledge, the French schools do not accommodate learning disabilities well.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Pre-K offered at AISL and at French schools. Nannies are affordable. Many embassy families chose the French system for children younger than kindergarten age, as it was more affordable.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but mostly offerred only in French.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small.
2. Morale among expats:
Moderate to high.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants, bars & clubs, beach, bowling, tennis, and pool parties.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for American embassy families with young children. The compound has a great play area and a nice pool. There is not much to do for teenagers, but it is great for couples and families that like get-together's with friends and boring weekends. Many bars and clubs, but nightlife doesn't get started until very late and often goes into the early morning hours. Restaurants open late (8pm) and dinner can be a 3-hour affair. A very SLOW pace of life.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
From what I have been told, the Gabonese government is anti-homosexual and are trying to legislate laws against homosexuality. That being said, I knew two separate (expat) gay couples that lived there, and to my knowledge they felt safe and secure. The international community was accepting.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gabon is primarily a Catholic country with a strong Muslim population. The government recognizes holidays from both religions, and I never saw any religious problems. I do not know if there is any representation from any of the other major religions.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Jungle safari, trip to the island nation of Sao, Tome & Principe, seeing a sea turtle lay her eggs, a local tribal dance group.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Beach, nature parks, jungle trekking, getting clothes tailor-made, going to the market.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Local masks that have danced in ceremonies.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Beaches & ocean; nature & animals; most embassy houses have an ocean view; great restaurants; slow pace of life
11. Can you save money?
Depends on your lifestyle.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes! Definitely. But I returned with our 2-month-old daughter and the malaria risk was very stressful on me. She was so little that the thought of putting her on an anti-malarial drug bothered me (CDC recommends a minimum weight of 22 pounds for using malarone), and the chance of malaria kept her in doors for the last few months of our tour. I would try to stay clear of malaria zones with a newborn.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
mosquito spray, umbrella, sunscreen and sunglasses.
