Libreville, Gabon Report of what it's like to live there - 10/24/13
Personal Experiences from Libreville, Gabon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our third expat experience. We lived in Kuwait City, Tunis, and now Libreville.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
London is home, but to get to Libreville you must travel via Paris or Frankfurt. 12 hours including the layovers.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
We came here on contract with a large construction firm.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Our company put us up in town houses in the center of town. These were newer and in decent condition and fair construction standard. Other expats we know live past the airport in the Sabliere area in single family houses. The American Embassy employees live in an older townhouse compound near the Beach Club in Sabliere.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expat grocery stores are available but more expensive than the UK. We found most things we needed, but you pay for them. Check out Mbolo, Sans Gel, CKDo for large stores with a good selection.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More mosquito spray.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Eating out is expensive. La Dolce Vita has two locations. Many Lebanese restaurants. A zillion pastry shops with some of the best pastries you will ever eat. Some surprisingly good Chinese food and a few African places. We like L'Odika and Le Mississippi.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mozzies with malaria are very serious! Less dangerous, but annoying are the ants that we can never get rid of in the kitchen.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Our company had a mail service that allowed us to send mail to the UK.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Relatively inexpensive compared to UK, but they don't seem to work very hard or fast. We paid £200 per month for a full time maid who also made lunches for us.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The expats we know went to Club Saoti downtown, but not sure of the costs...but everyone seemed happy with the facilities. You'll also find individuals teaching gymnastics or yoga or dance, but speaking French is a must.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There is an ATM near Sans Gel in Sabliere and an ATM in the Onomo Hotel near the American Embassy. We used both with no problems. However most restaurants and stores will be cash only. There were reports of some hotels skimming credit cards so we don't even try.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very little English is spoken. You need French!
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks are generally in poor shape if they exist at all. Ramps are non existant and people with disabilities don't seem to be taken into account when buildings are built.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We used taxis frequently and they are safe in terms of crime, but is poor condition and poor driving skills. However, they insist you wear your seatbelt in the front seat. Taxis stop to pick up people along the way unless you arrange for a direct trip. As an expat you will pay more. Learn the local prices for taxis and pay only that amount. The taxis are not required to pick you up so you may go through several taxis before one will take you.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a Toyota or other common car and bring as many spare parts as you can. There is an area of town with mechanic shops that can do routine repairs, but they can be expensive.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet was improving right as we left. Gabon Telecom is the most popular with horrible service. Speeds are available up to 4mbs when it works. IPI9 is a new satellite Internet company just coming online. We paid about £75 for 4mbs per month with Gabon Telecom.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
SIM cards are cheap and you have many options for mobile companies.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The Gabonese we worked with dressed quite nice, but our company dress was generally more casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The city is surprisingly safe as long as you are in well traveled areas and keep your smarts about you. Some locals we worked with reported break ins, but we never found an expat who had been victimized.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is bad so take your meds. Hospitals are quite dodgy except for Al Raffa in downtown which seemed to be able to handle minor items. Our company had a doctor on staff and the Americans have access to a doctor at their Embassy.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Clean, but humid air. The dry season air is crisper and lovely and feels good to take in.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
June through September are dry with cooler weather. It's very nice. The rest of the season is hot and rainy.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We do not have children, but our understanding is that school choices are very limited unless you are a fluent French speaker.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It varies. Once you get past some of the difficulties of working here it wasn't so bad. Our company morale was pretty good and we made good friends who worked for an agriculture firm Olam and they loved it. The American Embassy morale seemed quite low during our time in Libreville, but we were friends with some of them and they seemed to survive. We also became friends with two Lebanese couples and the Lebanese community was quite happy.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
You really need to know how to keep yourself busy as there is little to do in Libreville. We kept busy with friends from work and some American and UK expats. Lots of dinner parties to keep from being too bored.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There seems to be some tension between the local Gabonese and the French expats, but nothing serious.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing elephants close by in the elephant reserve and we were lucky enough to see some of Gabon's famous surfing hippos and the giant turtles.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The beaches outside of the city are nice as the beaches in Libreville are filled with trash. We had a friend with a boat and we loved going across the bay and exploring back in the lagoons. Whale watching is amazing in the dry season! If you are up for an adventure head to the national parks. As I said, there's not much to do in Libreville but if you work at it you can pass the time. Take the time to get out and see the country. It's beautiful!
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The city is quite small and activities are limited. We found a good group of British and American expats and our company has been helpful in developing friendships. There are some restaurants in town that make for a lovely evening. Point Denis is a beautiful beach 30 minutes across the bay from Libreville. Gabon has numerous national parks with West African wildlife. It's a bit of a challenge to get to the parks, but an enjoyable experience once you get there.
8. Can you save money?
If you make £1 million per year, yes. Otherwise you'll probably break even if you have a decent job and get out to see the country.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
There is so little on Gabon on the Internet. I wish someone had a guidebook on Libreville. I wish my French was better, too.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Although we are glad we visited, we need someplace a little more exciting. Probably not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of a busy life.
4. But don't forget your:
Bug spray and your sense of adventure...and your camera!
