Libreville, Gabon Report of what it's like to live there - 07/23/14
Personal Experiences from Libreville, Gabon
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was our second overseas posting with the State Department.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast of the U.S. 8 hours to Paris and another 8 hours down to Libreville. Royal Air Maroc, Ethiopian, and Turkish are other possible connections from the U.S.
3. How long have you lived here?
We lived there just under 2 years departing in June 2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
With the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is a mix of newer leased houses...some quite nice. All are close to the Embassy. The Embassy owns a six-unit townhouse complex called Sabliere with a big yard and great pool. Houses on the complex are from 1980 and are showing their age but still the best options for families.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Virtually everything is imported so grocery stores are easily double the U.S. cost. That being said, stores are wellstocked and there is little that you can't get if you're willing to pay for it. There are some quite large grocery stores as well!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Peanut butter, more car parts...you'll be surprised at just how plentiful the grocery stores are.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food is African street food including grilled meats with rice...depending on the strength of your stomach. Many cafes, several Lebanese places, some Chinese, a Chinese buffet (!), some good European choices. Cafe meals will run you US$15 per person. A meal at the nicer places is easily US$40 per person for the basics without drinks. TripAdvisor has some of the places listed.
Warm French pastries are a must have!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants and other bugs but the main issue is mosquitoes which carry cerebral malaria! Don't come here expecting your home to be bug free.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the very restrictive pouch for the Embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Roughly US$400 per month for a full time maid/nanny. Some cook, some don't....speaking French is necessary. Work quality varies wildly!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a gym and there is a membership gym with many exercise classes and tennis downtown at Club Saoti. Quite a few expats belong to Club Saoti. There is also a golf course in town but its over US$100 per round.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most everything is cash-based and the few places that take credit cards often have broken machines. We used the ATM at the Onomo Hotel regularly with no problem. There are a couple of other ATMs around town that people use. The Embassy has a cashier for its employees to exchange money.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is 1 English/French language protestant church about halfway between Sabliere and the boat port called La Porte. mbassy families are aware of the church. It is sponsored by a church in Tucson, AZ.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Almost no one speaks English in the city. You will need to learn basic French to get around at all.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Potholes, broken, if any, sidewalks, etc....someone with a physical disability would really struggle here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is a train that runs across the country but I only know of 1 person who has taken it. Local bus service ended years ago. Taxis are an option but you must speak French and negotiate before entering. Taxis are usually in very poor condition but are an option.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a Toyota and you'll be fine. There are proper mechanics mainly in the industrial zone that have excellent facilities and can do a lot but they are expensive. There is a local equivalent to Auto Zone that had an okay selection of car parts and accessories. If you can bring spare oil filters, fuel filters, bulbs, belts, etc...better to bring if nothing else because of the cost. Four-wheel drive is necessary if you're going out of Libreville.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Prices and service are so much better that what they were just a few years ago. Most people put up with Gabon Telecom paying US$80 per month for 4mb service. 8mb is also available....at least that's what you pay for, actual speeds can vary wildly. Ipi9 is a satellite internet service that is slower, but another option.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Sim cards are cheap and sold everywhere. Phone plans can be purchased with data.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some teaching opportunities at the local schools are available to Embassy EFM's...limited overall.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual unless you have outside meetings.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Be wise as in any city but Libreville does not have the infamous crime problems that plague most big African cities. Places with expats are generally safer. My wife shopped and drove by herself every day with no problems.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is dicey and even broken bones may require a medevac to South Africa. The big issue is malaria courtesy of a large mosquito population.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is good but hot and humid. July is spectacular with cool breezes coming off the ocean.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
July is incredible with highes in the upper 70's F but dry. Rainy season starts in September and lasts through May with incredible downpours. Other than July, it's just hot.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The school situation is getting better. Families send their children to Franco Brittanique (French school up to grade 12 in the French system all in French), the American school is plagued with management problems but is an option, Ecole Ruban Vert is an new international school that is coming online. It is imperative that you understand the school choices for your family before you move here.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Franco Brittanique has a preschool program. One family sent their child to a small preschool call Padouk in the Sabliere area but it is a local preschool. Check with the Embassy for the most recent info.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are sports options as part of the international school Ruban Vert. There are other options including horseback riding and some art classes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community varies. There are a lot of French families living in town. Bechtel has a large presence with about 100 Americans in Libreville. The Embassy has 20 employees.
Embassy morale has been dreadful for over a year necessitating a visit from FLO to help workout the problems. This was due to 1 person and his handler who have thankfully departed Post so the Embassy can begin to heal. However, I suspect the recovery process will take some time.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Self entertaining is what you'll be doing most of the time. I've mentioned some of the other things earlier in this report.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Keep in mind there is no mall, no parks, no movie theater, no play places. You will be spending a lot of time self-entertaining, going to friends' houses, or going to Point Denis to the beach. Embassy families have the benefit of the Sabliere compound for entertainment or the Beach Club across the street.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No idea.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is an underlying animosity towards the French and some of the Lebanese businessmen in town but it was never manifested in a way where I saw it.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Learning African French, seeing untouched jungles, enjoying French pastries, no cold weather, beautiful African beaches nearby.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Point Denis beach across the bay for a day away, whale watching in the fall, tortoise watching, forest elephant safari during a long weekend at Nyongie, weekend trips to Lambarane, long trips to remote areas if you are up for it, many national parks (expensive and hard to get to), great French pastries, a fair selection of restaurants.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Cool African shirts, African masks, safaris to untouched jungles.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
No one has ever heard of Gabon so you'll be living in a place that is relatively unheard of except those who saw Survivor Gabon a few years ago. Much of the jungles in this country are literally untouched and unexplored and are stunningly beautiful if you have the time and money to get out. The city of Libreville is quite laid back and crime is low so you'll get to experience West Africa but in a much smaller city.
10. Can you save money?
Probably not considering the cost of everything.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I didn't realize how isolated we would be. Flights out of Gabon are almost US$1000 per person no matter where you go so we spent a lot of time in Libreville.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not...I need a city with a little more to do.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coats and English.
4. But don't forget your:
Love for French pastries, bathing suit, bug spray, sunscreen, sense of adventure.
