New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 08/30/10
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have lived in Sao Paulo, Madrid and Cairo before.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Paris. Direct connections from Charles de Gaulle. An 8-hour-flight to Indira Gandhi Airport.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Working for a transnational company.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I live in Gurgaon (in the outskirts of Delhi), a "modern" and "upscale" neighborhood (potholes and cows are all over the place, nevertheless). My commuting time is only twenty minutes but sometimes the traffic is a real pain... I live in a closed community with all the amenities included, we have a pool, 24-hour-power back up and hot/cold running water. All the above are considered luxury features for most delhiites.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If it is imported (many products used by expats are) it will come with a hefty price. If it is locally produced, it will be cheaper.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Mostly house items, cleaning products, tooth brushes (they are of a very bad quality here), medicines, aspirin, sports clothing.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is almost everything but not easily accesible. You have to go to the places where they are (I mean, they are not around the corner). Food is much cheaper than in Europe but you have to be careful since the hygienic standards are not high either.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Many. Delhi is a "green city" where you can still see monkeys in the parks, so there is enough breeding ground for insects.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use DHL without problems.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It can be cheap but the quality is sometimes not exactly the best.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I go to the local branch of Fitness First and am very happy with it. I have heard there are many other gym chains opening up in Gurgaon. Good gyms and fitness are also something new in India so only new-rich people can afford it.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are some ATMs scattered around town and inside the shopping malls. Using a credit card here is still not common. It is still a cash economy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Many. Very cheap (both in price and quality).
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can survive with English only, although lots of Indians do not speak the language properly. If they do, you might not understand all they want to tell you anyway because of their heavy accents.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
All of them. The city is not prepared for disabled people.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I don't know about buses. They seem filthy. I have a driver. I would not drive here. Delhi is like hell, there are not common-sense traffic rules.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
None. Buy a used one here. They are expensive and you wouldn't want your new car to get scratches from the crazy drivers in Delhi. It is really much worse than in Cairo.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. I pay around 10 dollars per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everybody has a cell phone here. It is the way to go but be careful giving your number to Indian clients and/or acquaintances. They will call you whenever they feel like it.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Not in my case. All papers were in order and it was a swift procedure to get my dog back at the airport.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
So-so... There are some vets in Gurgaon and they have been ok with my dog. Pets are still seen as a extravagant trend of rich people.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal in winter, more flexible in summer due to the unbearable heat.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Terrorism. I am a male but I hear some female ex-pats have problems with staring and groping. Since sexuality here is considered a taboo and is suppresed in most cases, Indian men go crazy if they see some exposed skin.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Many. There is a dengue paranoia right now. Private hospitals are reliable.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very bad. Worse than Cairo.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
I have experienced it all here: Freezing cold in winter (with a horrendous white fog covering the whole town for days) or scorching hot (48-50 celsius). Rains and humidity in between.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I think it is large, but I only have contact with a very few of them (outside the office I mean). There are diplomats and people working for NGOs, too.
2. Morale among expats:
Low in most cases. I am OK but not loving it. Living here is not easy: pollution, traffic, distances, widespread poverty, filth everywhere, ubiquitous animals and the demanding nature of Indians make it hard for everyone.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly in super expensive trendy bars and restaurants or at home with friends. If you expect bar-hopping here...forget about it. Bars are only for the affluent people.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It´s hard for everyone. Maybe it is much better for families. Singles could have a difficult time here to meet girls/guys, since going out with a member of the opposite sex is still unacceptable in certain milieus, let alone with someone who does not belong to your caste or your religion. Couples without children (my case) get stares and many questions, since the only purpose of marriage in India is to have as many children as possible. Marriages here are arranged, so the contract is mostly between families not between individuals. Romantic love, showing affection in public or kisses are frowned upon.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many. Members of the higher castes treat miserably the people of lower castes. My Indian colleagues say that caste-ism does not exist... but I have been able to witness it on a daily basis.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Indians tend to be warm and affectionate but also very much after usable information. Their sense of privacy is almost non existent. Delhi itself has numerous historical landmarks and some of the best attractions are easily doable on a weekend (Agra for Taj Mahal, Khajuraho for the "erotic temples", Amritsar for the Golden Temple, etc.).
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are parks in South Delhi, the famous landmarks of the old town (Jama mosque, the red fort, Qutb Minar, Humayun tomb). There are many markets, which carn turn women crazy (mostly women´s clothing). Some movie theaters (most of the time they screen bollywood flicks in Hindi), etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Many handcrafts are similar to what you can find in North African countries and the Middle East. Furniture and clothing (specially women's) are probably your best bet.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
India is a colorful and exotic country and that makes it fascinating. Nevertheless, the mentality and way of life makes this a challenging posting for any expat. As a foreigner it is not as cheap as you might think. If you come to India and stay in a coackroach-infested hotel, eat only vegetarian food and don´t care much about hygiene, it can be very cheap. If you want a decent coffee, a turkey-ham sandwich and orange juice in the morning you have to pay a higher price for it (if you are lucky enough to find places where they offer them).
11. Can you save money?
No. Traveling within India is expensive. If you want a hotel with a western-style bathroom you have to pay for it.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably just as a tourist. I do not dislike it, but living here is another story. It is really hard just to get from one place to another. The heat, the pollution, the poverty only add on the pervasive lack of infrastructure and services. It's improving but not sure if someday the infrastructure will catch up with the "big power" ideal of India.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ideas that India is all about spirituality and that this is a cheap country. Most Indians are as greedy as any other people around the world and are living in conditions which could be considered "normal" in other countries. To have electricity 24/7 comes with a price.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure and humor. Some things here are so ridiculous that you have to laugh at them, really. I have read in previous postings that you should not use shorts, but at least in Gurgaon rich Indian (men mostly) were them in the summer.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"India, a History". "Holy Cow". I don't remember the names of the authors.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
India is really an exceptional country, but the lack of a decent infrastructure, the different standards of hygiene, the overpopulation, and the island mentality of most people makes daily life a hard task for non-Indians. I would say: come to visit, to wonder at the beautiful monuments and the magnificent history, but please do not come to live here.
